upstatedak
New Member
Need to work on my rear brake (06 Mastiff) seems to be sticking how can I tell if it is the master or the caliper that is sticking Thanks Hans
Brakes
- Thread starter upstatedak
- Start date
Mr. Wright
Knows some things
Jack it up and roll the tire. Press hard on the brake pedal as you roll it. If it's hard to roll when you release it, it's sticking. You can get parts from the Kaptin.
http://www.wildsteedworx.com/
Send him an email, it's the fastest way to get ahold of him.
I think there is a thread on this, I'll see if I can find it.
http://www.wildsteedworx.com/
Send him an email, it's the fastest way to get ahold of him.
I think there is a thread on this, I'll see if I can find it.
Mr. Wright
Knows some things
Here's one with some information. Still looking.
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/posts/672710/
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/posts/672710/
Mr. Wright
Knows some things
Another, still looking.
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/posts/628874/
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/posts/628874/
Mr. Wright
Knows some things
I know there was a how to on brake caliper rebuilds, but I couldn't find it. If no one else posts a how to, feel free to call me. PM sent.
title is Advanced Maintenance. Raywood does a caliper rebuild
Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
Mr. Wright
Knows some things
That's it, but when I clicked on it, none of the pictures showed up. Hope they do for you.
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/threads/advanced-maintenance.30448/
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/threads/advanced-maintenance.30448/
Theory: Who hangs up, caliper or master?
1. Lift rear wheel off ground.
2. Press down on foot pedal.
3. Note wheel will not move.
4. Break the banjo bolt loose off the caliper and let drip.
5. Move rear wheel. Did wheel move easier?
a. No = Not the master it's the caliper.
b. Yes = Master will not return fluid = Clogged return hole.
Theory: Caliper hangs up.
1. Air between cap and liquid = Condensation.
2. Liquid boils; what is inside the bubble? = Air-water-condensation.
3. Who is heavier, oil or water? = Water.
4. Water settles down to the lowest point of the caliper.
5. Becomes a crystal and lifts the quad-seal up against the piston.
6. Quad-seal is square to the cut and has memory to return flat in its groove.
7. The crystal becomes a growth, wrinkles the quad-ring as in, the quad moves out of its groove; pressure is relieved; the piston returns rearward with the squaring of the quad-ring back in its groove, pulling the piston back with it = No Drag!
Theory: Cleaning Groove.
1. Pump piston out of caliper.
2. Pull quad-ring out of its groove.
3. With a pointed scribe, carefully remove crystal/white paste out of the groove.
4. Use brake clean to dry and expose more crystal/white cake still in the groove.
5. Use the sun to show more than a shop light can... I mean clean as you can with all removed.
6. Replace quad-ring with new or you are on your own reusing it. Note pressure to make sure no leaks.
7. Clean all machined parts with a paper towel and brake clean. No sandpaper on a close tolerance finish of any part, be it the machined caliper hole or the piston. You remove tolerance when sandpaper is a big NO-NO in a squid's hand!
Replace fluids every 2 years or here comes the crud
1. Lift rear wheel off ground.
2. Press down on foot pedal.
3. Note wheel will not move.
4. Break the banjo bolt loose off the caliper and let drip.
5. Move rear wheel. Did wheel move easier?
a. No = Not the master it's the caliper.
b. Yes = Master will not return fluid = Clogged return hole.
Theory: Caliper hangs up.
1. Air between cap and liquid = Condensation.
2. Liquid boils; what is inside the bubble? = Air-water-condensation.
3. Who is heavier, oil or water? = Water.
4. Water settles down to the lowest point of the caliper.
5. Becomes a crystal and lifts the quad-seal up against the piston.
6. Quad-seal is square to the cut and has memory to return flat in its groove.
7. The crystal becomes a growth, wrinkles the quad-ring as in, the quad moves out of its groove; pressure is relieved; the piston returns rearward with the squaring of the quad-ring back in its groove, pulling the piston back with it = No Drag!
Theory: Cleaning Groove.
1. Pump piston out of caliper.
2. Pull quad-ring out of its groove.
3. With a pointed scribe, carefully remove crystal/white paste out of the groove.
4. Use brake clean to dry and expose more crystal/white cake still in the groove.
5. Use the sun to show more than a shop light can... I mean clean as you can with all removed.
6. Replace quad-ring with new or you are on your own reusing it. Note pressure to make sure no leaks.
7. Clean all machined parts with a paper towel and brake clean. No sandpaper on a close tolerance finish of any part, be it the machined caliper hole or the piston. You remove tolerance when sandpaper is a big NO-NO in a squid's hand!
Replace fluids every 2 years or here comes the crud
BadDawg Bill
Well-Known Member
Sven is 100% correct... 
Old school all the way.... 
Old school all the way....
Bummer we lost the pictures!
Someone needs to get some new ones
Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
KaptinAmerika
Guru
If you haven't already done the master do it anyway because it either needs it or isn't far behind so why waste time.
If you need a rear Rebuild Caliper for the 2006 Mastiff I have one for sale on E-bay. It has the Gold Lundell Racing pads which cost about 60 bucks. It's ready to install. It also has a new Speed Bleeder which makes bleeding easy. $200 Shipped
Carlos
Carlos
KaptinAmerika
Guru
LOL...you getting into the parts game Carlos
It's on E-Bay, just want to make sure he knew where he could find one at a decent Price LOL
Carlos
upstatedak
New Member
Thanks for all the info guys been down for awhile but I'm back and getting ready for spring thanks again
