Brake System

Energy One

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
All you really need to change is the rubber cup and O rings.

The rubber cups can be found many places, and online.

I posted info on them a while back
 

Lone Rider

Member
Question: I've recently purchased a 2006 K9. As I took it for a test ride, I noticed that the front brake felt a little bit "spongy", and didn't seem to start grabbing until I squeezed a bit more on the brake handle; more so than on my Harley. The rear brake grabbed sooner and felt more where the resistance should've been on the front. I was told this: "On a chopper style bike, front brake free play at the handle is adjusted to be more "loose" before you feel the caliper start to grab. This is intentional for safety sake, so as not to lock up the front wheel too suddenly, due to the long rake." I'm not certain that is the whole truth. What do you guys think?
 

pknowles

RETIRED
It doesnt sound right. I would check the fluid and change it first. Then look into a rebuild kit if the bleeding and or flushing doesn't work.. brake in a straight line.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Question: I've recently purchased a 2006 K9. As I took it for a test ride, I noticed that the front brake felt a little bit "spongy", and didn't seem to start grabbing until I squeezed a bit more on the brake handle; more so than on my Harley. The rear brake grabbed sooner and felt more where the resistance should've been on the front. I was told this: "On a chopper style bike, front brake free play at the handle is adjusted to be more "loose" before you feel the caliper start to grab. This is intentional for safety sake, so as not to lock up the front wheel too suddenly, due to the long rake." I'm not certain that is the whole truth. What do you guys think?
That's a new line, never heard that before!

Like Paul said I would just check the brake fluid the front brake doesn't have that much fluid capacity so I'd just go ahead and fill it and bleed it!

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
make sure you put DOT5 in after the rebuild. that's what it came with. maybe the previous owner mistakenly mixed different grades?
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
make sure you put DOT5 in after the rebuild. that's what it came with. maybe the previous owner mistakenly mixed different grades?
If that’s the case, he needs to rebuild the master cylinder n flush the line. Dot 4 will eat the seals in a Dot 5 system
That's true...he should be able to notice the purplish tint to it, it does get clear pretty quickly but maybe a purplish hew should let him know what the scoop is.

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Lone Rider

Member
Thanks guys for the info, I'm learning a lot about having a Big Dog, much different than a Harley. Dot 5 Brake fluid instead of Dot 4. I will make sure the service personell double check EVERYTHING Before I pick up the bike this Saturday.
Live to Ride, Ride to say Wheeeeeeeeeeee!
 

AFretired62

New Member
I have a 2004 Ridgeback. I'm trying to change the brake fluid as a routine maintenance, but now I can't seem to get any pressure on the brake lever. I'm sure I have air in the line, but what's the best procedure to get the air out?
 

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member
I have a 2004 Ridgeback. I'm trying to change the brake fluid as a routine maintenance, but now I can't seem to get any pressure on the brake lever. I'm sure I have air in the line, but what's the best procedure to get the air out?
Make sure the bike is upright and handlebars are level. Pull the brake fluid cover and SLOOOOWLY pull the brake lever. As you do, you should see air bubbles coming out. Repeat until you see no more air. Refill as required with DOT 5 only.
 

No H2O

Active Member
Make sure the bike is upright and handlebars are level. Pull the brake fluid cover and SLOOOOWLY pull the brake lever. As you do, you should see air bubbles coming out. Repeat until you see no more air. Refill as required with DOT 5 only.
could that same technique be used on a car? (open the reservoir and slowly push the pedal, repeat until no more bubbles)
 

No H2O

Active Member
Perhaps, but its awful hard to watch by yourself. Cars usually get the vacuum pump.
every time I've changed fluid I've used a Power Bleeder and gotten no air in the lines. Since the price at some shops has gone down below $100 it's hardly worth it to DIY (especially w/o a lift)
 

mleach72

Well-Known Member
could that same technique be used on a car? (open the reservoir and slowly push the pedal, repeat until no more bubbles)
That technique works on the front brake because the brake line is nearly vertical. Air bubbles naturally want to move up the line. On cars or the rear brake on a motorcycle, a lot of the brake line is horizontal. You have to pump the brake or use a bleeder to force the bubbles through.
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
I've got a brake bleeding kit that is basically a syringe that you put on the brake and push fluid from the caliper up to the master cylinder -- works well.
Can't rememberwho makes it -- I'll go look for it and update this later.
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
I've got a brake bleeding kit that is basically a syringe that you put on the brake and push fluid from the caliper up to the master cylinder -- works well.
Can't rememberwho makes it -- I'll go look for it and update this later.
System is call EZE Bleeder. Good company -- stands behind his product -- seal went on my syringe after a number of years and he sent me new ones.
 
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