Brake Bleeding Question

[Rich_M]

Hi all,

Bleeding brake on the front. I am really having a hard tome getting the front brake to firm it up. Put a new Precision Machine caliper on the front end. New Brake line, new crush washer. The only thing I am reusing are the banjo bolts. Pushed the brake fluid in from the bottom . I couldn’t get the air out before replacement, now it’s better (firms up about 1/2 way down, but still significant mush. I’m not seeing any bubbles in the fluid. Looking for suggestions. The is the LAST item before she’s back on the road. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

[Rich_M]

Pics for the above.

 

[HMAN]

With the master filled and top replaced, SLOWLY sqeeze the brake lever. Repeat until it firms up. Ck fluid and repeat. The key is to slowly sqeeze the lever. It will bleed what remaining air is left, out thru the master. Hope this helps ya get her rolling

 

[Rich_M]

2-3 sec squeeze slow enough or slower?

 

[HMAN]

Slower the better. It shouldnt take very many pulls before you feel it pump up. Ya may have to do this a few times before it holds. MrWright taught me this trick.

 

[mleach72]

The front brake is basically self bleeding.

 

[chubs]

I'm assuming you're using plain old regular dot 5 fluid? Never mix dot 5.1 with dot 5 as they are NOT compatible!! When I bleed my brakes, I put a piece of plastic tubing on the bleeder and stick the other end into a brake fluid bottle. Then I pump the brakes up and hold then while I crack the bleeder, then close the bleeder and repeat until the brakes are to my satisfaction. (just how I do it and it works for me)

 

[Rich_M]

Yup, I was smart enough to check and I am using straight Dot 5.

 

[Rich_M]

I'm assuming you're using plain old regular dot 5 fluid? Never mix dot 5.1 with dot 5 as they are NOT compatible!! When I bleed my brakes, I put a piece of plastic tubing on the bleeder and stick the other end into a brake fluid bottle. Then I pump the brakes up and hold then while I crack the bleeder, then close the bleeder and repeat until the brakes are to my satisfaction. (just how I do it and it works for me)

This is how I do the brakes on my truck, but I haven’t tried it on this. I’ll give it a shot and let you know.

 

[Rottweiler]

I remember bleeding my front a long time ago. I had problems also. Put it all together then remove cap/lid fill with Dot5 only. Let it sit for a few hours. Leave the lid off and keep pulling the brake slowly. The bubbles will float up. Keep filling as you go.

 

[Snuffy]

You should preload your brakes before every ride. Pump em up and make sure they are working properly before you start riding and you should never have an issue.

 

[amossycrane]

You should preload your brakes before every ride. Pump em up and make sure they are working properly before you start riding and you should never have an issue.

A soft lever that needs pumping is still something I'd want sorted, preload is just a quick check before rolling out.

 

[Snuffy]

Damn it. The bot is right

 

[knothead]

A soft lever that needs pumping is still something I'd want sorted, preload is just a quick check before rolling out.

I bet you know all about pumping something

 

[Sven]

Squids open and close the nipple, pulling the lever each time. The trick is to keep the nipple open and keep pumping till the fluid drops in the master. Fill before it sucks air. Last lever pull is to simultaneously, pull the lever to the grip and close the nipple before the lever hits the grip.

So as to not suck it back in the caliper, you have a hose on the nipple that has a U to it so the one side of the U is holding fluid on one side and the other side of the hose is draining into a use oil container. Drill a hole in the cap of the container so the hose is forced into the hole so it does not fall out. Then with a pointed scribe, you stab a tiny hole for atmospheric pressure is equalized. Or when you take the hose off the nipple, the fluid splashes all over the wheel. Ass me how I know.

 

[calowl97]

Squids open and close the nipple, pulling the lever each time. The trick is to keep the nipple open and keep pumping till the fluid drops in the master. Fill before it sucks air. Last lever pull is to simultaneously, pull the lever to the grip and close the nipple before the lever hits the grip.

So as to not suck it back in the caliper, you have a hose on the nipple that has a U to it so the one side of the U is holding fluid on one side and the other side of the hose is draining into a use oil container. Drill a hole in the cap of the container so the hose is forced into the hole so it does not fall out. Then with a pointed scribe, you stab a tiny hole for atmospheric pressure is equalized. Or when you take the hose off the nipple, the fluid splashes all over the wheel. Ass me how I know.

That hose loop is the bit people skip, then wonder why the lever stays mushy after a whole bottle of fluid. Brake fluid on the wheel is a proper pain too