Blown Head Gasket on a 124

Energy One
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
BWG56 said:
I sort of remember when Cdoggy blew his the 2nd time, besides the torque being wrong, didn't he have it upside down when he installed it? Is there a right side up on the gaskets?
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You gotta read it right....this is the other headgasket. He only did the rear now the front blew. Rear is fine.

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 
Little-Boo

Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
You should have your heads checked for warping. If so, I would deck them about 0.010, get comatic gaskets and call Fueling Motorcycle Parts to see if they have the ARP stud Kit for your application. At the very least I would use new stock studs. My understanding is that the stock cylinder studs are torque to yield and stretch when you torque them. Consequently, when you torque them again they are weak and will not hold as well as new ones. I always use new bolts and nuts when I remove the heads on friends bikes that I have worked on. If they can afford the ARP Stud kit is better cause they never have to buy new head studs again. (Fueling Motorcycle Parts look for Fasteners )


For my 2006 Mastiff I went to Fueling Motorcycle parts and got me the ARP stud kit which torque at 45 LB. None of this 8 pound, 18 pounds 90 degree crap. I just do the three stags 8 then 18, and last 45 in accordance with the tightening chart .

Back in the day I had a 87 Buick Grand National that blew head gaskets just about every other weekend at the race track. So, I decided to install the ARP studs instead of the torque to yield head bolts and never had another issue with blow head gaskets. I ran a consistent 21 and above, but not more than 25 Lbs of boost. Car was awesome, best I ever got out of it was a 10: 80 at 121 MPH in the 1/4 mile. Took lots of money to get it there. The trick was to get past the blown head gaskets, but I got it in the 10's.

Carlos :old2:
 
SMCT

SMCT

Active Member
The correct material head gasket and you won't have an issue. They should never be of a composite style. Either MLS or Copper.
 
BWG56

BWG56

Guru
JR03CHOPPER said:
Thank you for pointlessy pointing out the painful obvious Mr. Holmes. Still luv ya though!!!
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:oldhardlaugh:I thought you would like the obvious thrown out there, nothing like rubbing salt in the wound:sorry:, no I ain't,:oldlaugh: When you need 2 tires for your car, do you put them both on the same side:oldconfused:

I'll give ya a hug when I see ya in March so you can feel my luv :oldeek: :oldnono:
 
john sachs

john sachs

Well-Known Member
Not anything wrong with the stock studs...........Prolly create more problems by removing them. Steel is much harder than aluminum, especially in the threaded area.
Be sure everything is clean, be sure surfaces are flat including the base of the cylinder, and top of case, use quality mls style head gaskets, and you should be good to go. Also,,,,, be sure a stud isn't trying to pull out of the case.
I use 10, 20, and quarter turn torque on S&S engines.
John
 
JR03CHOPPER

JR03CHOPPER

Well-Known Member
john sachs said:
Not anything wrong with the stock studs...........Prolly create more problems by removing them. Steel is much harder than aluminum, especially in the threaded area.
Be sure everything is clean, be sure surfaces are flat including the base of the cylinder, and top of case, use quality mls style head gaskets, and you should be good to go. Also,,,,, be sure a stud isn't trying to pull out of the case.
I use 10, 20, and quarter turn torque on S&S engines.
John
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Thank you John. I used your tips on the rear cylinder head. I will use these too on the front.
 
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