Bloody brake lights

Energy One
JeffM

JeffM

Active Member
Once again the wonderfull electrical system on my K9 is doing my head in.

2 weeks ago i went for a ride and noted that neither of my brake lights worked. I replaced my rear pressure switch at xmas time, but now i am wondering if that is now stuffed again.:bang:
So i played with my front brake and got the light to come on to prove that the wiring is good and the fuse and light is working.
Now the light stays ON even with the fire cracker completely removed.
WTF is going on.:confused:
Big club ride this w/e, don't want to go on the wifes 1983 BMW 650.

Anyone????????????/
 
Raywood

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
JeffM said:
Once again the wonderfull electrical system on my K9 is doing my head in.

2 weeks ago i went for a ride and noted that neither of my brake lights worked. I replaced my rear pressure switch at xmas time, but now i am wondering if that is now stuffed again.:bang:
So i played with my front brake and got the light to come on to prove that the wiring is good and the fuse and light is working.
Now the light stays ON even with the fire cracker completely removed.
WTF is going on.:confused:
Big club ride this w/e, don't want to go on the wifes 1983 BMW 650.

Anyone????????????/
Click to expand...

Jeff, what light is on? Remember the electrical system works on a ground based system so I would ensure the wiring at the rear wheel didn't rub though from the rim. Its was close down there.

:cheers:
 
Little-Boo

Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
JeffM said:
Once again the wonderfull electrical system on my K9 is doing my head in.

2 weeks ago i went for a ride and noted that neither of my brake lights worked. I replaced my rear pressure switch at xmas time, but now i am wondering if that is now stuffed again.:bang:
So i played with my front brake and got the light to come on to prove that the wiring is good and the fuse and light is working.
Now the light stays ON even with the fire cracker completely removed.
WTF is going on.:confused:
Big club ride this w/e, don't want to go on the wifes 1983 BMW 650.

Anyone????????????/
Click to expand...
The fire cracker completely removed. hum, I assume that is the ignition key. Like Raywood said, check for a shorted out fire. Follow the wires from the battery to the rear lights to make sure the tire didn't bust a wire that could be touching metal and causing short.

You also mention you played with the front brake and got the light to come on. I assume you were messing with the lever control magnet and if that is the case you might not have that adjusted properly causing the light to stay on. Also make sure you didn't pinch the wires when you closed the lever assembly.

Hope that helps if not Sven with chime and blow you mind with all his sophisticated anal analyses of the electrical system. :lol:

Carlos
 
KaptinAmerika

KaptinAmerika

Guru
I think when he says firecracker he is referring to either the brake switch in the rear caliper or the reed switch in the control mount.
You need to put a meter on the read switch and check continuity. You should only have continuity in the reed switch if the magnet is in close proximity. If you have continuity all the time then the reed switch got messed and needs to be replaced.
 
Brew

Brew

Troop Supporter
He's talking about the reed sensor. Jeff your PCB is shorting out in your hand control. I had this going on with my ridgeback. The connector needs to be parallel to the PCB in the controller.

See how the connector is lifted up, well it should be pushed down towards the PCB (sorry it's a little blurry):

 
JeffM

JeffM

Active Member
Thanks everyone.
The fire cracker is the magnet in the hand control, touched it manually and the brake light came on, now i have pulled it completly out and the brake light stays on.

The rear brake light is not working at all, i will try and short it to the frame and see if it is the switch today when i get home.

Have ordered an new rear pressure switch just in case, but the front brake should be turning off if the magnet is not in contact with anything.
 
JeffM

JeffM

Active Member
Up date.
Removed (disconected) RH control board and the light went out put the meter accross every possible combination...........everything ok but can't seem to get a reading from the magnet to anything. Reinstalled and reconected, brake light came back on and stayed on, did the disconnect thing again and in the process lost the little grub screw (anyone know what size that sucker is?), so taped up the magnet and shoved it into my bars, put hand control back together. Have a JD and calm down.
Rear brakes still don't respond, i have ordered a new pressure switch, hope this works.

Thoughts guys?
 
Srodden

Srodden

Well-Known Member
Little-Boo said:
The fire cracker completely removed. hum, I assume that is the ignition key. Like Raywood said, check for a shorted out fire. Follow the wires from the battery to the rear lights to make sure the tire didn't bust a wire that could be touching metal and causing short.

You also mention you played with the front brake and got the light to come on. I assume you were messing with the lever control magnet and if that is the case you might not have that adjusted properly causing the light to stay on. Also make sure you didn't pinch the wires when you closed the lever assembly.

Hope that helps if not Sven with chime and blow you mind with all his sophisticated anal analyses of the electrical system. :lol:

Carlos
Click to expand...
Seriously smart guy if you can interpret engineering language. Glad he's here to tell you the truth !
 
JeffM

JeffM

Active Member
After the last episode i had with Svens comments, his comments now are only there for those that wish to see that crap.
Thanks to the electronic wizz bang thingy i no longer have to tolerate his rants.
Oh the joy of it all.

Still does not fix my brake lights though.
 
bearman

bearman

Active Member
So did you ever look at the pressure switch wires? Mine are 4 mm from the tire and they have a sharp bend to where they are tie-wrapped down so they don’t get into the tire.

If the wires are good at the rear caliper, trace them to the connector, disconnect it and do a continuity check to the switch with the rear brake pedal mashed. Be sure to check the connector for corrosion while you are there. Nothing in the front brake switch will keep the brake lights from coming on when the rear brake is pressed (unless they are already stuck on).

If the pressure switch works (and it will when your new one comes in) but you still don’t have brake lights, then thoroughly check the wiring from the connector to the EHC.

As far as the front brakes go, sounds like you need a new firecracker (magnetic reed switch). They do go bad. You should just be able to get a reed switch and solder it onto the old circuit board.
 
JeffM

JeffM

Active Member
I had a look (mans look), nothing looks to have rubbed, all conections are sound.
Lite does work, WP unit fitted and a relay with fuse in the brake circuit (relay workin fine).
I have had the front brake lite disconected for some time, because it would work fine for a few weeks then the lite would stay on, back the magnet out a tad and the lite would go off, pain in the ass every couple of weeks, so i pulled it back so it would not activate.

I thought by installing the WP it would help solve some of the electrical issues...........it has dramaticly BUT it is small things that are frustrating me. Case in point.
 
JeffM

JeffM

Active Member
Up Date.

After repalcing the rear pressure switch, the rear brake light worked perfectly.

Looks like i got the daily double, the hand brake went south at the same time as the rear switch, this to me sounds unusual.
Anyway i am back on the road.
Thanks to all.
 
JeffM

JeffM

Active Member
Up Date.

After repalcing the rear pressure switch, the rear brake light worked perfectly.

Looks like i got the daily double, the hand brake went south at the same time as the rear switch, this to me sounds unusual.
Anyway i am back on the road.
Thanks to all.
 
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