Bike Will not Fire 2004 Ridgeback

rickd62

"USAF PRIME BEEF"
OK brothers and sisters, I got back from a poker run and she ran great. I parked the bike in my garage and didn't get a chance to rider her for almost a week after. When I went to start her, she turned over with no hesitation, but would not fire. I pulled a plug, reconnected the wire and grounded the threads to the head bolt. When I hit start, no spark!! My ignition module red indicator light will not illuminate and the ignition light on the EHC does not light at all either. I still have the original EHC. Any suggestions on what to do next?
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
If you've been reading up, someone pointed out they have a few ehc's that are still good. He also mentions the diagnosis was more the harness wire(s) loosing integrity. Things that come to mind are:
1. The wires leading into the black box and/or male-female connector tangs are all green or oxidized somehow.
2. WATT was the last thing you did to the bike in between the ride home and now with this no start, sans forgetting to turn on the kill switch.
3. Strange how the bike got you home, the key was turned off, let's assume the bike sat for said time without a tool to it, and now no spark?

Some quick and dirty moves:
a. You've got nothing to lose, yank the connector in and out so the drag on the pins will clean the green/oxi coating and now it's back to making contact.
b. With plugs out, battery on charger, rather do first a tug up on the harness entering the ehc, then click the starter to see spark.
c. Push down on the harness then test start, now pull the connectors off and test if no joy.
 

Hirter6Pack

Not Quite A Guru
Will the ignition module flash once when the run button is pushed?
Yes, try checking the cam sensor.
No, try the EHC connection like Sven suggested.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
The electronic loophole is to toggle a screwdriver between the magnetic pickup and the trigger pin in the rotor. Use top gear, no clutch lever pulled in to go thru the gearbox. Push the bike so the pin comes around and sits under or is at the leading edge of just going under the mag pickup; your choice. Key on, watch plug for spark as you keep connecting both pin and pickup [with screwdriver's flat tip] toggling for spark.

Cam sensor in the generic... is placed where? I think the cam [position] sensor evolved into the beginning of the multi=fire turned 'sequential fire' type system? Emission wise I think that kicks in for the electronic system to eliminate a spark on the exhaust stroke. I could be wrong... only your tone wheel off the crank knows for sure.
 

rickd62

"USAF PRIME BEEF"
If you've been reading up, someone pointed out they have a few ehc's that are still good. He also mentions the diagnosis was more the harness wire(s) loosing integrity. Things that come to mind are:
1. The wires leading into the black box and/or male-female connector tangs are all green or oxidized somehow.
2. WATT was the last thing you did to the bike in between the ride home and now with this no start, sans forgetting to turn on the kill switch.
3. Strange how the bike got you home, the key was turned off, let's assume the bike sat for said time without a tool to it, and now no spark?

Some quick and dirty moves:
a. You've got nothing to lose, yank the connector in and out so the drag on the pins will clean the green/oxi coating and now it's back to making contact.
b. With plugs out, battery on charger, rather do first a tug up on the harness entering the ehc, then click the starter to see spark.
c. Push down on the harness then test start, now pull the connectors off and test if no joy.
Sven - the interesting thing here is my bike is garage kept. After I rode in the poker run I parked the bike in the garage and hadn't touched it until a week later. When I went to start her, all I got was the engine turning over with no spark, no ignition module light and no ignition light on the EHC.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Rick, That's the puzzle. What was the last thing I did to the bike... Nothing. That's rules out disturbing things. So then you assume the parts inside the black box are built with heat parameters and pass this type of environment, i.e., sitting behind a hot engine, riding on a hot day. There you think the black box goes thru heat cycles thru its lifetime. You think what are the odds you rode it home and not a glitch when the key turned off.

What next would come to mind is taking a multi-meter and using this to see if the coil has 12v (+) at said wire side connection = What did you do mechanically we keep narrowing it down = Key switch??? See where I'm going? So if hot goes to coil, hot goes to the black box, if the coil wire has a piggyback and this jumps from coil to black box?

If we play the key switch game, taillight turns on with key on. Say you'd assume if the taillight goes on, why not the coil/box? I'm not familiar with the wiring setups/keyfob, etc., so I'll more explain it in the generic. Make a V sign with one hand. Make a fist with the other. Place fist into V fingers. See how the key internals has a ball kind of dual connection action? The ball touches two wires. One to the taillight, one to the coil:

1. Key assembly?
2. Wire off of key assembly?
3. Wire broken off key assembly?... (that's if no joy at the coil)
 

Axel

Active Member
Hi Rick,

I agree with Sven. You also can check the 2 red cables what come from the EHC and go to the coil and the ignition module if there are 12 Volt present if the key contact is close. If yes, then you might have a defect ignition module or cam sensor. If there is no voltage present then open the connector to the ignition module and check the 12 Volt at the red cable again on the EHC side just in case if the ignition makes a short circuit and the EHC is ok. To check the cam sensor is a bit challenge, cause a normal household have usually no access to an oscilloscope what will show the output signal at the green cable.

Schaltplan RB 2004.JPG

I hope it helps.

All the best!
Axel
 
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