Big Vibration!
- Thread starter 1goodsinner
- Start date
BadBrad
2005 Pitbull
Everything is subject to come loose on a dog!!! As you're riding, squeeze your legs against your tank(s) and see if that helps. My tank bolts have vibrated loose and is sounded like hell. Check the top bolt of the coil to the frame. It's notorious for vibrating loose. Pull your derby cover and check your primary chain for proper tension.
Atti2ude
Member
Thanks Bad. Here's the scenario...was riding with JeffM last Sat and part of the ride had the absolute bumpiest road I've ever ridden. Shortly after the road smoothed out I noticed the vibration which forced me to slow down to 60. Thought it could be the dyna beads but when I pulled the clutch in the vibration stopped. After lunch, Jeff grabbed his tools and the coil bolts were tight. When I got home, I couldn't find any obvious problems so I pulled the primary cover and the clutch basket, chain and pulleys looked fine. Plugs looked good. Motor to frame bolts are tight. Tank bolts are tight. Exhaust is tight. Rear fender is solid. No unusual engine knocks or sounds. Whether riding or sitting still, the vibration starts at 1500 and at 4000 feels like its going to fly apart. The search continues...
Just saying..... might not be the problem but I had a mean vibration on my bike, changed out the plugs and it's smooth now. The plugs looked "fine" but they must have been fouled.
BadBrad
2005 Pitbull
Well, you stated that you use dynabeads, so there are no balance weights that may have detached from the rough road. Do you still have vibration if you are stopped, in neutral but reving the motor up to 4000 rpms or only when you're rolling? Does the vibration still go away when you pull the clutch in? If the answer is yes to both, I would have to agree with Eric and change your plugs to see if that makes a difference. It could also be from a bad plug wire. I would start with the simple things first
claw
Member
Just an FYI..... I also had a mean vibration. Put a torque wrench on all the coil cover bolts and all were tight. It was when I went to change the coil when I found the problem. The long bolt connecting the cameltoe to the backbone was bottomed out in the cone that it screws into. Just putting a wrench on it was mis leading. It felt tight until I pulled the coil cover to head bolts. Then the whole coil cover and cameltoe were very loose. I pulled the bolt and put a 1/2" lock washer on it and, WOW. Did that make a difference.
Ray
Well-Known Member
You better hope she never reads this ,, she will kick your azz
Carlos.hummm ? points you to better information than I can give you ,, and thank God for these people in this forum that help us keep em running!
Ray
isalas
Member
I had this similar vibrations last week but my main difference is that I lost the clutch whenever the vibrations and NOISE started at First i though I broke the motor since the noise was horrible like metal on metal grinding.
I got the dog home on a trailer and started trying to figure out where the noise was coming from, I had recently installed the soft clutch ball and ramp only (no plates) so maybe I fucked up something there, but nope everything looked ok.
I checked all mounts motor and Tranny while I did found 2 screws on the tranny loose the noise did not went away.
I finally removed the primary cover and noticed that the clutch bolts where hitting against the cover so thats my metal to metal noise, I took out the clutch pressure plate and found the BIG ass nut holding the clutch completely loose,
I tighten it the best I could and put some loctite on it as well, but I have a question how tight should that be? should I get air tools to tighten it?
My plan either way is to remove the primary cover and clutch plate every oil change and check that nut again, but I dont want to have it come loose in the middle of a ride :S
I got the dog home on a trailer and started trying to figure out where the noise was coming from, I had recently installed the soft clutch ball and ramp only (no plates) so maybe I fucked up something there, but nope everything looked ok.
I checked all mounts motor and Tranny while I did found 2 screws on the tranny loose the noise did not went away.
I finally removed the primary cover and noticed that the clutch bolts where hitting against the cover so thats my metal to metal noise, I took out the clutch pressure plate and found the BIG ass nut holding the clutch completely loose,
I tighten it the best I could and put some loctite on it as well, but I have a question how tight should that be? should I get air tools to tighten it?
My plan either way is to remove the primary cover and clutch plate every oil change and check that nut again, but I dont want to have it come loose in the middle of a ride :S
turk1
Member
Good call Claw! I have had a nasty vibration since day one. My feet would vibrate off the pegs at 3200 RPm's and went away after pulling in the clutch. I found my center bolt on the Coil cover was bottomed out as well. I have been checking that s.o.b. with a torque wrench forever but also found it to be misleading. I have not test riden it yet but I will bet it takes care of some of my vibration problems. Thank you brothers!
claw
Member
steve, there was a factory service bulletin that came out in regard to the clutch hub nut with a specific sequence to perform.
take it all apart, clean and inspect threads and basket.
with the clutch re-installed and the threads clean and dry, run to 150lbft. to pull everything together.
back off the nut and apply red loctite.
run in at 120 lbft.
this is from memory but there is a post on here somewhere with the actual speak from the factory. :2thumbs::2thumbs:
Atti2ude
Member
Getting closer
Figured I would continue with this thread instead of starting a new one to show continuity.
Last Dec I was experiencing what appeared to be vibration so over the last 2 months I've spent countless hours troubleshooting and bugging JeffM. After eliminating the drivetrain, I moved on to ignition. I noticed the rear cylinder LED on the ignition module was blinking at a very slow rate compared to the front cylinder. Running on 1.5 cylinders would explain the "vibration" and one would think that it would be obvious if one cylinder wasn't keeping up...but it's not. Just to confirm, I pulled the rear plug wire and it made very little difference in the idle but it made a huge difference when I pulled the front wire. Just wondering if anyone else experienced this??
Thunderheart is out of the programable module so it will be at least 3 weeks before I can get my hands on one. They are going to make me up one with BD connectors so I won't have to cut & splice.
Figured I would continue with this thread instead of starting a new one to show continuity.
Last Dec I was experiencing what appeared to be vibration so over the last 2 months I've spent countless hours troubleshooting and bugging JeffM. After eliminating the drivetrain, I moved on to ignition. I noticed the rear cylinder LED on the ignition module was blinking at a very slow rate compared to the front cylinder. Running on 1.5 cylinders would explain the "vibration" and one would think that it would be obvious if one cylinder wasn't keeping up...but it's not. Just to confirm, I pulled the rear plug wire and it made very little difference in the idle but it made a huge difference when I pulled the front wire. Just wondering if anyone else experienced this??
Thunderheart is out of the programable module so it will be at least 3 weeks before I can get my hands on one. They are going to make me up one with BD connectors so I won't have to cut & splice.
Iahcon
Member
I too am experiencing a massive vibration from approx. 2100-2800 rpm. This vibration is new. This has been an interesting read and now I have a couple of things to check. I'm going to double check the top motor mount but I just recently had the coil cover off and don't think that's the issue. The clutch basket could be the culprit.
Iahcon
Member
Just a lil update I have been able to remove my terrible vibration. I had installed the Magnecor R-100 wires and that's when the vibration made itself known. I am NOT bad mouthing the wires. This is NOT to bash Magnecor. The wires are beautiful and looked great on the bike. But I know this,
When I put my old wires back on the vibration vanished. Gone. Period.
I cannot explain why this would be. Trust me I've been running mad chasing this vibration. Checking mounts, plugs, adjusted push rods, removed primary cover to inspect, checked drive belt, etc. etc. I wish I would have done the wire swap in the beginning, I just kept telling myself " it can't be the wires"
Why did they cause the severe and I mean intense, vibrate my feet off the pegs vibration? I don't have a clue. I know the dog's have sensitive electronics and maybe that has something to do with it. I welcome someone with EHC experience to give an opinion here.
When I put my old wires back on the vibration vanished. Gone. Period.
I cannot explain why this would be. Trust me I've been running mad chasing this vibration. Checking mounts, plugs, adjusted push rods, removed primary cover to inspect, checked drive belt, etc. etc. I wish I would have done the wire swap in the beginning, I just kept telling myself " it can't be the wires"
Why did they cause the severe and I mean intense, vibrate my feet off the pegs vibration? I don't have a clue. I know the dog's have sensitive electronics and maybe that has something to do with it. I welcome someone with EHC experience to give an opinion here.
