Best Motor Build Components???

[loujr]

OK, I really need some help here. I'm looking for some ideas from the really tecnical, motor head guys on this site to create a rock solid streetable, reliable pump gas motor for my 2007 Mastiff. If you knowledgable guys were to compile a wish list of the best parts, ie Pistons, Cams, Roller Rockers, Cam Springs, Heads, Carbs and Clutches that are on the market today, What would that list consist of??? And who would you get to do the work??? Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[Raywood]

a rock solid streetable, reliable pump gas motor:

Sounds like a good stock motor to me!!

 

[Mickeetwo]

Sounds like a good stock motor to me!!

very true :2thumbs:

 

[lee]

talking to R&R would be a good start. They'll probably be pricey but they're about as good as it gets.

 

[loujr]

Am I understanding you guys right,............U can't modify these 117's without maintaining a level of reliability, and gain some performance? I find that a little hard to believe with all the new performance parts being manufactured today. I'm not looking to build a 9 second crotch rocket, but a little more torque and a few X-Tra ponies would be nice. I was just asking for a few suggestions from the guys that have had some mods done for the names of the parts they used and builders that are good at what they do. But I appreciate your input.

 

[Raywood]

You didn't mention anything about performance in your original post.

 

[alhall88]

I guess it depends on what you mean by reliable? The more motor work you do the more maintenance the bike and motor may require. If your ready for that commitment I suggest you do some searches on this forum and found out what others have done. Many of us got what we wanted by approaching it in very different directions possibly based on the way we ride, how far we ride, the power band that best suits us and what we were willing to invest in the build. Just remember your dealing with an epa motor and all clearances must be double checked when starting this project.

 

[chopsteak]

I'm at 30 over, 600 cam,decked heads,no restrictor plates ( '05 model), modified super E, port and polished heads, do not have stock pistons. She pulls pretty hard. I have Grumpy's twisted sisters pipes ( ceramic coated in and out) At the time I wanted something that looked cool. If I could do it over I would have gone with a good 2 into 1 pipe setup.

 

[HDLARRY]

Good advice from Alhall88.

I see it as three different options -

1. Bone stock is the most reliable and least expensive.

2. Build it the way S&S would have if the EPA wasn't involved. Better performance and pretty reliable.

3. Build it for high/max performance. Requires more maintenance because you’re always messing with or breaking something. You can expect better performance and more reliability if you can find a builder that has a tried and proven combination of components.

Trying to pick the best component from each category is the recipe for a disappointing outcome (I’ve been their). It's the combination of parts that compliments each other that will give you the best results and minimum wasted dollars.

As was said by Alhall88, figure out exactly how you plan to use your bike first and then do your homework. Personally I wouldn't want in that third category if I was planning to do very many long rides. But if I wanted a hot rod bar hopper and was staying close to home or trailering, that's a different story.

 

[Vegas]

Your best bet is a bump in compression and a camshaft if you want it to be reliable. There is always a compromise. These bikes were engineered for a certain amount of power. Once you surpass that level you start breaking things like trannys, clutches, belts, etc.

 

[Wildthing]

Your best bet is a bump in compression and a camshaft if you want it to be reliable. There is always a compromise. These bikes were engineered for a certain amount of power. Once you surpass that level you start breaking things like trannys, clutches, belts, etc.

Won't he need to do the valve springs if he cams and bumps the compression?
Even if he just does the cam, he should do the valve spring too....right?

 

[Vegas]

I would definitely replace them with the correct springs and make sure the installed height and seat pressure is correct.

 

[loujr]

So after reading just about all othe information in the performance forum,........looks like my best bet is to start out by zero decking the cylinders, shoot for about 10 to 10.5 compression ratio. Install a new 600 to 640 cam with proper springs, (either woods or S&S), roller rockers by TP, and either rejet my stock carb, or invest in a new XXX. Should I or shouldn't I consider minor head work at that time, and if so to what extent? Finish all that up with a new Bandit Clutch assembly and call it complete? Am I getten warmer? :loony:

 

[V]

Are the TP roller rockers better than the S&S ?

 

[loujr]

I really don't know,..........thats kinda Y I started this thread,.........to get opinions, and answers from the guys that do know, on just that kind of question? Still trying to compile that list of quailty components to consider for my motor.

 

[busa2r]

Dont forget our dogs come with smaller valves than regular S&S motors,porting would be a good option try to go with somebody that has some good some proven pkgs for the porting it is easy to mix match components and not be real happy

 

[Little-Boo]

I am currently doing some engine work on my 2006 Mastiff. I am doing all of the wrenching myself. I will explain as I go along and share with you what I am doing including cost.

Set of heads ($400) on E-Bay same casting as mine. Sent them out to WFOLARRY (Larry's Motorcycle & Machine, Inc in Oak Lawn, IL) to be worked on. The heads will have the 2.00 intake and 1.605 exhaust valves, ported and polished, milled .030, CC’d, flow tested, new valve guides, Bob Woods W188-1200-10L valve springs ($280). I will use the Woods W6HF 650 lift cam ($350). So far the machine shop cost is at $659.00, which includes all of the head work, including larger valves, ect, ect as mentined above. I will also have the Cylinders milled some and leave at least .015 deck total (in the hold) including the .010 base gasket. I will be using the Cometic ML Steel head gaskets (.030 ) ($42.00) which will keep me at 10.5 to 1 compression. I am also going to switch over to the S&S IST Ignition ($686.00 complete with Installation kit) and for Carburetion I am going to switch to the PSI'S GENESIS "BIG-AIR" carb's for the 117 -131 engines ($1,199.00). I will also have the Intake Manifold milled .035 on each side to compensate for the amount milled of the heads and Cylinders. No price on the cylinders or the intake manifold mill job.

I am also going to change the Exhaust from the current V&H with ½ baffles to the RPGEES 2 in 1 ($995.00). I am also changing out the TP Rocker Boxes to the S&S Rocker boxes complete with the rockers and all ($1057.00), and the Jims big bore Evo chrome tappet blocks ($404.00). I will post the result of my build up when I am done. All parts have been ordered and have most of them on hand, the rest should arrive this week, except for the carb. They sent me the wrong one, which I returned today. I hope to get stated on this soon after the SPI Roar by the Shore Rally Oct 10 -12. :

If any one on here sees something wrong with my combo, jump in and let me know before I get started. When I talked with Greg (Doc) at Full Throttle Motorsports in Lansing MI. He told me it was the way to go and to Hold on Tight. Doc is a V-Twin Specialist at Full Throttle Motorsports and Arron is the part man there, they can be reached at (517) 646-9850 Recommended to me by none other than the Gas Man, Muncho Thanks Gas :2thumbs:

 

[lee]

sounds good Boo - I have that same cam / springs, the PSI and the RPJeez 2 into 1 and the IST!! I've also had the deck height done. I will also be doing the S&S rockers / valve job with some minor porting work too when I can afford it (the rewire has wiped me out). We will then have very similar set ups.

Have you considered the LSR exhaust? Also, why are you getting a new set of heads?

 

[Cutter]

... If any one on here sees something wrong with my combo, jump in and let me know before I get started...

You forgot to order the straps to lash you wrists to the handle bars... you are definately going have to hold on tight.:2thumbs:

Sounds like a great setup.
You will also need to look at your intake, the stock with a K&N will not breathe enough for that monster.

I went with Gates Performance(make sure you tell them that they are 5/16-18 engine bolts), others have gone with the Doherty power pack, or a variety of others.
GatesPerformance.com

 

[alhall88]

Boo you can take your exhaust valves up to the standard 1.625, another thing unless you want to buy new tappet blocks those can be opened up to accept the .650 lift cam. I'm a little unsure why you want to leave that material on the cylinder but mill it off the heads but Like I have said before everybody has a different approach. I also notice you did not mention travel limiters lifters. You can go the washer method or buy new new travel limiters lifters from S&S or Jims but I would highly recommend them.