Battery wires
- Thread starter jsousa515
- Start date
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
The starter itself only has 3 Pos red, Neg black and a green solenoid wire. I'm guessing you must have those connected correctly since you just replaced the starter. On the battery side it could get very different depending on which bike you have and accessories you may have.
Take some pictures of what you need connected and someone on the site may know exactly where each wire goes. Important if your not sure about a wire don't connect it until you know for sure. You don't need to waste your EHC or Ignition but shorting shit out . If you have a pile of spaghetti you may have to follow each wire back to its source to know if it's Pos or Neg.
Get the wire diagram for your bike and hook up bare minimum first then add on any extra stuff like battery tender, GPS or extra lights.
Here is what I have the wires that I bolted together one pos is from the starter the other pos comes off the fuse box mounted on the side of the bike.the negative side bolted together the big wire comes the ground off the frame and the smaller wire comes off the the front plug to my ech.the 2 wires that are not hooked to anything come of the voltage regulator
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Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
What year and model bike do you have? Is it EFI or Carb? So I can see what the Wire Diagram shows. If you took the Red wires off the Pos side and the Black wires off the Neg side just replace them on the battery where they came from. It would seem the only wires you don't know where to connect are the one's you called VR wires. VR's are fused so can you tell if that orange square taped to the left wire is a fuse? If so it's the positive side. As for the other wire on the right are you sure it's coming from the VR? If so it would be the negative side but I ask the question because they usually ground to the frame not back at the battery.Here is what I have the wires that I bolted together one pos is from the starter the other pos comes off the fuse box mounted on the side of the bike.the negative side bolted together the big wire comes the ground off the frame and the smaller wire comes off the the front plug to my ech.the 2 wires that are not hooked to anything come of the voltage regulator
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The black wire back to the EHC is the ground. The EHC also needs power so it probably gets it off the fuse box can you see where the EHC is getting it's power?
just a suggestion that i have found very helpful, have a couple small zip ties handy when you pull the wires off the battery. pull the wires off the positive and run a zip tire through that set of wires and synch it up, then do the negative the same way. all the wires are together and in order starting with the biggest first for better contact.
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
Been doing that for years although I use twist ties, like from bread packages rather then waste the zip ties.
Does the black wire that comes off the top plug in the ehc go to ground battery or ground frame
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I would put at the frame where the larger wire from the battery connects. That way it's one less wire next time you change out the battery.
Thanks first had a issue with the negative wires on the post came loose. As soon as I cranked them down . I tried to start me wolf it just clicked.i disconnected the wires charged the battery up then I tried to hook everything back up. When I turned on key key and the starter tried to start with out touching the start button.after that decal my battery post were melting.so I ordered a new starter and touch pad on the handlebars. Got everything hooked back up tight now all I get is a click noise.the ehc a new one I got from Curtis I get a blue light when I turn on the key but with not kick in the starter
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Check power on the green wire at starter solenoid.
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Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
When the battery starts to melt stuff like that you need to have it load tested, you may have well fried that battery.
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
Rottweiler meant what voltage did you get at the green wire when you pressed the start button. Pull the wire off the solenoid when you read it. If you hear a click it's your compression releases which happens at the same time the starter solenoid activates. You should get a 12 volt shot on the wire. If your getting the required voltage on the wire look to your solenoid or starter to find your issue.
Take Jersey Mikes advice and have the battery tested it could have an internal short. After successful test and charge the battery needs to be 12.8 volts.
As for your grounding question the battery ground and frame ground are the same electrically. I would put it back the way it was when you took it apart.
If your bike is EFI pay attention to the sticker on your bike.
The blue light on your ehc is indicating a fault in your compression release circuit. That may be related to your current issue. If you get no click or only one click ( front or rear CR) when you hit start with the green wire disconnected I would not be surprised.
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Got it. Here is my guess... how close am I? IMPORTANT tag reads... Anytime battery is removed, RAM is lost [think favorite radio stations]. So the sequence is to turn key on, press run from kill... but not start it. Run is more the kill switch at the bars so the capacitors are not on a constant ground [in a way], but Run flows the 5v as part of the closed loop. Why use a start button if say Run is the button to push or toggle from kill? So we want to begin the process and it takes so many seconds to 'learn'. We do have a 555 timer to shut down learn in so many seconds, or we run the battery down once we learn? We just need a milli to run the clock [if applies] and sleep is the same deal as your computer tower shuts off when you take a shit for too long and not move the mouse anshit to remain alive.
Every time you turn the key off, Ram is lost or sent to ground, but our microprocessor is [always hot] and in learn mode. We shutdown after 10 or so seconds, is why we give that extra 5 second window that sets the bike back to start. Start always begins at zero in binary language speak. The bike starts with ROM = 0000... from 0v back to 12v.
So to see if that micro-p is bleeding the battery down, the amp draw should show it; by just placing the meter leads as the [parallel] connect points. Here I should see the 555 timer drop the milliamps after learn. It seems like it works more or less in sleep mode with minimal current draw. If I move Run to Kill, I may not see a spike or I do see a milli change when toggled to Run...[key off].
How well did I walk computer theory, we lift the hood of a black box? An obvious disclaimer here, because I am self taught and keep trying to fit the puzzle pieces together.
If I said it in hubbishit or Svenounsyllables; Hole he shit you motherfucker are you a learn micro? My puter is pulled with so many flashes and I just plug it in and light it off. Son of a bitch I spend years here finding little computer pieces that only make sense to me or WATT?Hubsay???
