Battery Ground cable

Darryl Birch

Darryl Birch

Member
Can anyone tell me why when I bought this 02 Pitbull, the negative cable to the battery was disconnected? was there/is there a problem with the ground?
 
Darryl Birch

Darryl Birch

Member
pknowles said:
Probably something on the other side shorted out and draining the battery. Any problems when starting
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I've had the bike just a short time. Was hard starting so had battery tested , and it was poor. Bought another battery and ran down the highway a few hundred miles. When I stopped it was dead. I stopped at a Harley dealership for an event. Bought another battery from Harley and have had it on a 1.25 amp charger. I've started it up every couple days seem to be good. I checked the charging system and 14.1 volts instead of the 14.2-14.8. The negative cable seems to be daining the battery. Ive read others have disconnected this cable....
 
Last edited:
pauldeepsea

pauldeepsea

Guru
Darryl Birch said:
I've had the bike just a short time. Was hard starting so had battery tested , and it was poor. Bought another battery and ran down the highway a few hundred miles. When I stopped it was dead. I stopped at a Harley dealership for an event. Bought another battery from Harley and have had it on a 1.25 amp charger. I've started it up every couple days seem to be good. I checked the charging system and 14.1 volts instead of the 14.2-14.8. The negative cable seems to be daining the battery. Ive read others have disconnected this cable....
Click to expand...
I am thinking voltage regulator or bad stator
 
S

Sven

Well-Known Member
Darryl Birch said:
Where does one by a Voltage Regular, and/or a stater?
Click to expand...
Darr, lets look at 3 jobbers doing their job and see if it all makes sense.

I checked the charging system and 14.1 volts instead of the 14.2-14.8. The negative cable seems to be draining the battery.
Click to expand...
Someone said to spike the ground cable to the neg batt post. You can also see how much draw is leaving the battery neg cable off the post... clip a test light 'between' the batt neg post and ground cable. Since there are no fuses to pull, pull bulbs that automatically turn on with key and disconnect those first. The coil and H-box are the only ones hot or drawing current, so the bulb should be dim not bright. Bright shows current draw.

I do not need a v/reg, stator, rotor. My 3 jobbers:
1. Shows the v/reg registering a limit of DTT. My 'Threshold' is 14.8v. I 'Trigger' anything over 14.8v. My 'Discharge' is showing the v/reg (jobber) is working.
2. Shows the rotor is well magnetized and can make current.
3. Shows the stator has full 16v (16+16 = 32 amp) out each wire.

Where do I need to change 1 of 3 variables to the charging system? I don't. I now can see I do not need to swap parts if I know my 3 jobbers work as 1.

We now segway to the 4th jobber that completes the system. Long story.
1. In 2010 or there about I buy a left over 2009 built sometime in 2008 = Battery was no prepped.
2. The battery now sat for 2 years and who knows if the seal was broken?
3. I call yuasa and tech tells me about buying the comp's product, preps the battery this way:
4. BS means 'battery acid supplied.' He then explains the basics; wait 1 hour so the liquid soaks into the pleats; fully charge battery; drain battery down to 1-2v and charge back up at least "3 times."
5. Bike has a blinking alarm system so I had to remove the battery ground or it would drain.
6. I let the bike sit and charged the battery about as many times that are on one hand.
7. I sell the bike with the original battery just a few weeks ago. Cranked off many times that day.
8. That's 8 years or 6 years wet is my pants I could not believe it's not butt hurts you keep reaching around for that wallet.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to testing) after testing on my own. Read it or eat it.
 
chubs

chubs

Guru
BWG56 said:
As Sven would say, if you disconnect the ground from the battery and then touch it on the battery, does it spark? If it does there's a short somewhere
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I don't think it would have to be a short. It could be a load and all you did was complete the circuit. If you pull a bulb out of the socket, you can touch the cable to the battery all day long with out an arc. Put the bulb in and when you touch the cable to the battery you might get that arc. Not a short, but a load.
 
BWG56

BWG56

Guru
chubs said:
I don't think it would have to be a short. It could be a load and all you did was complete the circuit. If you pull a bulb out of the socket, you can touch the cable to the battery all day long with out an arc. Put the bulb in and when you touch the cable to the battery you might get that arc. Not a short, but a load.
Click to expand...
Why would there be a load if the key is off and if its running the lights would be on and giving the battery a load, but it should be charging with it running, unless its not charging.
1.25 trickle charge won't charge the battery enough after starting it a couple times, and letting it idle for a couple minutes won't do it either, put it on a 10Amp battery charger, I think the battery is drawn down too much and I believe that's kinda what Sven is saying, but I'm not certain
 
chubs

chubs

Guru
:yesnod:
BWG56 said:
Why would there be a load if the key is off and if its running the lights would be on and giving the battery a load, but it should be charging with it running, unless its not charging.
1.25 trickle charge won't charge the battery enough after starting it a couple times, and letting it idle for a couple minutes won't do it either, put it on a 10Amp battery charger, I think the battery is drawn down too much and I believe that's kinda what Sven is saying, but I'm not certain
Click to expand...
That's a possibility
 
Darryl Birch

Darryl Birch

Member
Sven said:
Darr, lets look at 3 jobbers doing their job and see if it all makes sense.


Someone said to spike the ground cable to the neg batt post. You can also see how much draw is leaving the battery neg cable off the post... clip a test light 'between' the batt neg post and ground cable. Since there are no fuses to pull, pull bulbs that automatically turn on with key and disconnect those first. The coil and H-box are the only ones hot or drawing current, so the bulb should be dim not bright. Bright shows current draw.

I do not need a v/reg, stator, rotor. My 3 jobbers:
1. Shows the v/reg registering a limit of DTT. My 'Threshold' is 14.8v. I 'Trigger' anything over 14.8v. My 'Discharge' is showing the v/reg (jobber) is working.
2. Shows the rotor is well magnetized and can make current.
3. Shows the stator has full 16v (16+16 = 32 amp) out each wire.

Where do I need to change 1 of 3 variables to the charging system? I don't. I now can see I do not need to swap parts if I know my 3 jobbers work as 1.

We now segway to the 4th jobber that completes the system. Long story.
1. In 2010 or there about I buy a left over 2009 built sometime in 2008 = Battery was no prepped.
2. The battery now sat for 2 years and who knows if the seal was broken?
3. I call yuasa and tech tells me about buying the comp's product, preps the battery this way:
4. BS means 'battery acid supplied.' He then explains the basics; wait 1 hour so the liquid soaks into the pleats; fully charge battery; drain battery down to 1-2v and charge back up at least "3 times."
5. Bike has a blinking alarm system so I had to remove the battery ground or it would drain.
6. I let the bike sit and charged the battery about as many times that are on one hand.
7. I sell the bike with the original battery just a few weeks ago. Cranked off many times that day.
8. That's 8 years or 6 years wet is my pants I could not believe it's not butt hurts you keep reaching around for that wallet.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to testing) after testing on my own. Read it or eat it.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your well thought out response. I will look into this
 
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