I do the same, why not ??:2thumbs:Still on my original battery myself, I always connect to a battery tender as soon as I pull into the garage and it stays on until I ride.
I have to agree I did luck out! Even though the dog was on the Battery tender plus and the light was green "fully charged" it would not spin over , I opted for the Yuasa "AGM" replacement 310CCA YTZ20HL BS mainly because free shipping and ease of ordering through Amazon the "Bigdog Battery" was 270CCA it was always on the tender after riding!!! never thought I would get anywhere near seven yearsI learned the hard way and now change out my battery every 2 years. One morning it starts and later at the bar it's deader than a door nail and won't take a charge. 7 years is a LONG time... You lucked out.
I also quit buying the high rev big buck batteries. The regular ones will start the bike if they are charged up. In my 107 S&S cruiser I had to buy a Walmart battery once for a whopping $48 and it lasted 2 years with no problems.
MX20L - MOTORCYCLE BATTERY - 500+ CCA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E49MQZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_tGKd67l8skPiK
Time will tell, they're not proven yet..just like Axel's EHC..
Please, please, for the love of all things good...not again!!Axles ehc is very proven just ask me and I'll tell you all about it![]()
Pretty impressive then. Cca is basically done by increasing the surface area of the plates. If they (who ever makes those batteries) have figured how to make them last and survive heat, that is great.Well it just so happens when I received mine I did a load test on it, not once but 3 times outta the box without an initial charge, and it load tested to 500 CA. Did I freeze it to do CCA? No, my bike will never see 40 degrees and I don’t ride below 55*
With that said I’m sure it’s possible to get a bad one, like anything else, people here can attest to getting a Braille battery with inspection papers stating it was good, and it was DOA