Back Brakes

[kickstart]

I'm totally embarrassed when I come to a stop with all the squeeling my back brakes are making I am just using the front brake.

The back brake is working fine until about 5/10 MPH and then the noise starts.

I have checked the alignment of the caliber to the rotor, TIR of the floating rotor is .012 ID&OD of the braking surface, installed new brakes, Permatex disc brake Quiet and new Rotor buttons. And it still is screaming.

Anyone have any ideas? :bang: :bang: :bang:

 

[Gas Man]

What brake pads did you use?

You said you checked the alignment... you mean the center of the caliper half is lined up with the rotor?

And you're sure its the breaks? Mine use to do the same thing... dealer said it was the brakes... well when I re-did the alignment on the bike... the noise went away.

 

[kickstart]

Yes, the caliber is centered on the rotor with shims. The new brakes were PM from BD via Nelson.

Right now I'm not sure of anything or can I think of anything else to do. :bang:

 

[WB Cycles]

Got new ones on the back as well and getting the "squeal". Haven't gone through a hard stop though to wear them, that worked last time on mine.

 

[BigDogBro1]

Do you need to have the rotor (surface scuffed) resurfaced with a coarse sanding disc or machine done? If your rotor is glazed and the new pads are not broken in properly, the squeal may not go away.

 

[kickstart]

Nelson, I've always been told that a hard stop on new pads is a no no because it will glaze them.


Bigdogbro1, this only happens when the bike is almost to a complete stop.

 

[Raywood]

Kick, I replaced mine with Lyndall Z-Pads several years ago and have not had any problems with squealing and they work great. They don't have the front brake noise that the stock ones do. Check out their website here;

Lyndall Racing Brakes - The worlds best Brake Pads & Composite Rotors --- Home ---

 

[WB Cycles]

Nelson, I've always been told that a hard stop on new pads is a no no because it will glaze them.


Bigdogbro1, this only happens when the bike is almost to a complete stop.

I'll have to watch that .... will want to resolve that before next weekend !!!! :bang:

 

[barhopper]

Could it be the belt chirping? Just checking. My belt sqeaks when moving slow.

 

[WB Cycles]

Could it be the belt chirping? Just checking. My belt sqeaks when moving slow.

Naw ... its the break pads. Did the "drive matrix" with Strokers back in 2005 under warranty work. THAT chirping was annoying as hell too

 

[JamesofGA]

I agree about trying a hard stop. I've always heard that riding with the brakes slightly engaged (when slowing not stopping) is when they glaze. I had sqealing from mine and hammered the brakes... and gone.

 

[BBChopper]

Kick mine does it too. Changed the pads and it still does it. I think I need to change the Rotor and the Buttons. As little time as I spend stopping, screw it!!

 

[reloaderbmg]

BB next time we meet ive got some graffite spray , you just let the pads suck it up. noise will be gone & the grabie after market feel to,
just did all the pads on the road king, made noise , took them off ,
sprayed all . now great!

 

[kickstart]

BB next time we meet ive got some graffite spray , you just let the pads suck it up. noise will be gone & the grabie after market feel to,
just did all the pads on the road king, made noise , took them off ,
sprayed all . now great!

Graffite spray??

 

[woodbutcher]

Kick, I replaced mine with Lyndall Z-Pads several years ago and have not had any problems with squealing and they work great. They don't have the front brake noise that the stock ones do. Check out their website here;

Lyndall Racing Brakes - The worlds best Brake Pads & Composite Rotors --- Home ---

for those that want a pad made for higher performance and harsher weather conditions----http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/product_reviews9.htm#air

sorry, can't get the link to work but the article talks about a newer gold pad. sounds like good reading.
it is aimed more toward the jobber than the rider but still decent.

 

[BBChopper]

BB next time we meet ive got some graffite spray , you just let the pads suck it up. noise will be gone & the grabie after market feel to,
just did all the pads on the road king, made noise , took them off ,
sprayed all . now great!

Cool! :2thumbs:

 

[dogvet]

I've never heard of putting graphite on brake pads especially since it is typically used as a dry lubricant.

If your brake pads have the copper looking backing, you have the right pads. If the backing plate is black, those aren't the right pads.

Typically, as others have indicated, brake squeel can be the result of glazing. You can remove the pads and scuff them with a file, emery cloth, or even a scotch brite pad (as long as you clean the shit out of them before they are reinstalled).

Inspect the brake pads to verify that they are wearing evenly and that the wear is equal on both pads

Clean the pads good before installing them. You might also take a course scotch brite pad and some brake cleaner to the rotor.

Once everything is back together, do a few hard stops to seat everything back in. As somebody else stated, its the light braking that can cause the glazing to occur. Make sure the caliper shimming is correct at both caliper mounting bolts.

If you wash your bike at a car wash avoid getting the wax on the rotors.

Do you notice anything abnormal with the finish on the surface of the brake rotor? Any galling or discoloration?

If you have an oil leak at your starter ore even the inspection cover you could be contaminating your rotor with oil residue.:zz2cents:

 

[Raywood]

Good input Dogvet!!!

Kick, I just remembered that I had an issue with my rear brake shortly after I bought it and they discovered that one of the pucks was stuck in the caliper. I would ensure you have movement in both pucks.

Good luck,
Ray

 

[kickstart]

I've never heard of putting graphite on brake pads especially since it is typically used as a dry lubricant.

If your brake pads have the copper looking backing, you have the right pads. If the backing plate is black, those aren't the right pads.

Typically, as others have indicated, brake squeel can be the result of glazing. You can remove the pads and scuff them with a file, emery cloth, or even a scotch brite pad (as long as you clean the shit out of them before they are reinstalled).

Inspect the brake pads to verify that they are wearing evenly and that the wear is equal on both pads

Clean the pads good before installing them. You might also take a course scotch brite pad and some brake cleaner to the rotor.

Once everything is back together, do a few hard stops to seat everything back in. As somebody else stated, its the light braking that can cause the glazing to occur. Make sure the caliper shimming is correct at both caliper mounting bolts.

If you wash your bike at a car wash avoid getting the wax on the rotors.

Do you notice anything abnormal with the finish on the surface of the brake rotor? Any galling or discoloration?

If you have an oil leak at your starter ore even the inspection cover you could be contaminating your rotor with oil residue.:zz2cents:

Dog Vet

I do have the copper colored pads, no oil leaks, rotors are shimmed and centered, brakes are new and not glazed, I don't wash the bike at a car wash.

The stock pads had even wear and also had two grooves in each the new copper back pads did not have the grooves.

Do you happen to know the tolerances for the rotor?

This only happens when you are letting up on the brake just before the bike comes to a complete stop.

Thanks

 

[kickstart]

Good input Dogvet!!!

Kick, I just remembered that I had an issue with my rear brake shortly after I bought it and they discovered that one of the pucks was stuck in the caliper. I would ensure you have movement in both pucks.

Good luck,
Ray

Ray,
I did check the pucks and they are free.
When they found your problem did the pads show uneven wear? and how did they correct the problem?
Thanks