Automotive Oil vs. Cycle Oil

Energy One

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
I love these topics....I was hoping for a better article but this one purely sucks especially for Vtwins. On Cyril Huze blog because Spectro paid for it..... :down:

Motorcycle oils: 1- MUST contain higher quality shear stabilizers because many run the same lubricant in both the engine and gearbox. 2- MUST have higher volatility to control consumption because they do run hotter. 3- MUST have special additives to better prevent cam wear and oxidation in their extreme heat environment.
If you own a big dog I HOPE you don't use the same oil in engine & gearbox. 1 down...

Vtwins do not run that much hotter than cars 180-220 which is within normal operating temps on cars...2 down

Um special addictives due to heat? Read 2nd point above.

But thanks anyways SPECTRO :down: Advertising $$ well spent :down:



Overall I still would agree to use MC oil over Car oil but at least provide better information that that to sell your $10+ p/QT oil versus $3.50 for cars.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
I am no pee troll E M engineer. But I did sleep at a moe tell 6 and a half. I abuse oil threads on occasion. Perhaps dis one. Being that I have a racing background, I was an "A Grade" sponsored rider. A's were unlimited oil cases. B Grades were giving limited cases.

After cases left over, 30 years go by quick, and I've been depleting the cases by mixing brands. So with the brand new metallurgy like we have today, the chemical science has excelled too. Those SAE grades keep circling the tops of the cans so as you are holding the correct grade for your certain model.

I called Mobil and asked what was the shelf live of their oil? They came back with a guess of 500 years. I figured my 30 year old oil was very young, so I dumped a 50/50 blend or straight racing 50w, some 10w30 syn and 10w40 Mobil regular.

My thought was the chemicals were just that. The bulk was still light sweet crude distilled to extract this and many other fuel products doing this simple thing is boil the tar. With 500yrs being the thought, 30yrs old, 50/50 mix, what do I have to lose but a blown up engine?

How can you blow up a lubing system? How is it possible with fresh oil and a chemical still is going to mix with oil. The grade is going to regrade or downgrade itself, you'd think? You'd think I'd blow the bike up with the best oil is just try to hammer the bike so it would but it didn't.

On video I have the bike going thru some paces where it's being loaded some. Racing size mph numbers so the oil gets a workout. This is old, none SAE spec for 2013 or up to whatever grade it is? If I told you about nikasil cylinder wall plating, thin mm rings, short piston skirts, current japanese metallurgy is being abused here.

The manual says the bike is within range if it's in between 145psi ~ 228psi. When it was time to change the plugs and basically perform a full service, a compression test was read. The 4 cylinders came out as 220-220-210-220.

You have these pisspoor accounts of what brand oil was doing what to whom? Who's brand is better? Who is just guessing and where is this guy going to find 30 year old oil and test his ass all up.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one list inns to turdull)

Turtle North Shore - YouTube

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s58/wazfst1tyme/Russecondwin_zpsae9882df.jpg
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
I am no pee troll E M engineer. But I did sleep at a moe tell 6 and a half. I abuse oil threads on occasion. Perhaps dis one. Being that I have a racing background, I was an "A Grade" sponsored rider. A's were unlimited oil cases. B Grades were giving limited cases.

After cases left over, 30 years go by quick, and I've been depleting the cases by mixing brands. So with the brand new metallurgy like we have today, the chemical science has excelled too. Those SAE grades keep circling the tops of the cans so as you are holding the correct grade for your certain model.

I called Mobil and asked what was the shelf live of their oil? They came back with a guess of 500 years. I figured my 30 year old oil was very young, so I dumped a 50/50 blend or straight racing 50w, some 10w30 syn and 10w40 Mobil regular.

My thought was the chemicals were just that. The bulk was still light sweet crude distilled to extract this and many other fuel products doing this simple thing is boil the tar. With 500yrs being the thought, 30yrs old, 50/50 mix, what do I have to lose but a blown up engine?

How can you blow up a lubing system? How is it possible with fresh oil and a chemical still is going to mix with oil. The grade is going to regrade or downgrade itself, you'd think? You'd think I'd blow the bike up with the best oil is just try to hammer the bike so it would but it didn't.

On video I have the bike going thru some paces where it's being loaded some. Racing size mph numbers so the oil gets a workout. This is old, none SAE spec for 2013 or up to whatever grade it is? If I told you about nikasil cylinder wall plating, thin mm rings, short piston skirts, current japanese metallurgy is being abused here.

The manual says the bike is within range if it's in between 145psi ~ 228psi. When it was time to change the plugs and basically perform a full service, a compression test was read. The 4 cylinders came out as 220-220-210-220.

You have these pisspoor accounts of what brand oil was doing what to whom? Who's brand is better? Who is just guessing and where is this guy going to find 30 year old oil and test his ass all up.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one list inns to turdull)

Turtle North Shore - YouTube

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s58/wazfst1tyme/Russecondwin_zpsae9882df.jpg
I would agree lubricant is lubricant to a certain degree. Over the short term I don't think you will see any difference mixing oils. Long term...might be something there.....but who really knows other than those big companies who put out paid research to sell you shit ton's of oil.

I hope nobody who uses synthetic in cars changes their oil every 3k miles.....mine as well wave $$ out the window.

I agree though Shelf-Life on oil 30 years is easy...
 

shovelshot

Active Member
I am no pee troll E M engineer. But I did sleep at a moe tell 6 and a half. I abuse oil threads on occasion. Perhaps dis one. Being that I have a racing background, I was an "A Grade" sponsored rider. A's were unlimited oil cases. B Grades were giving limited cases.

After cases left over, 30 years go by quick, and I've been depleting the cases by mixing brands. So with the brand new metallurgy like we have today, the chemical science has excelled too. Those SAE grades keep circling the tops of the cans so as you are holding the correct grade for your certain model.

I called Mobil and asked what was the shelf live of their oil? They came back with a guess of 500 years. I figured my 30 year old oil was very young, so I dumped a 50/50 blend or straight racing 50w, some 10w30 syn and 10w40 Mobil regular.

My thought was the chemicals were just that. The bulk was still light sweet crude distilled to extract this and many other fuel products doing this simple thing is boil the tar. With 500yrs being the thought, 30yrs old, 50/50 mix, what do I have to lose but a blown up engine?

How can you blow up a lubing system? How is it possible with fresh oil and a chemical still is going to mix with oil. The grade is going to regrade or downgrade itself, you'd think? You'd think I'd blow the bike up with the best oil is just try to hammer the bike so it would but it didn't.

On video I have the bike going thru some paces where it's being loaded some. Racing size mph numbers so the oil gets a workout. This is old, none SAE spec for 2013 or up to whatever grade it is? If I told you about nikasil cylinder wall plating, thin mm rings, short piston skirts, current japanese metallurgy is being abused here.

The manual says the bike is within range if it's in between 145psi ~ 228psi. When it was time to change the plugs and basically perform a full service, a compression test was read. The 4 cylinders came out as 220-220-210-220.

You have these pisspoor accounts of what brand oil was doing what to whom? Who's brand is better? Who is just guessing and where is this guy going to find 30 year old oil and test his ass all up.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one list inns to turdull)

Turtle North Shore - YouTube

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s58/wazfst1tyme/Russecondwin_zpsae9882df.jpg
I love your posts Sven. They actually make sense to me. I don't agree always but...
 

shovelshot

Active Member
I would agree lubricant is lubricant to a certain degree. Over the short term I don't think you will see any difference mixing oils. Long term...might be something there.....but who really knows other than those big companies who put out paid research to sell you shit ton's of oil.

I hope nobody who uses synthetic in cars changes their oil every 3k miles.....mine as well wave $$ out the window.

I agree though Shelf-Life on oil 30 years is easy...
Your oil my friend is always available where you left it, on my garage floor.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
I thought oil for motorcycles had more zinc in it where oil for auto's don't.
That's not true. I had a great post awhile back on Oil and some testing.

The thing about running 1 Oil in both engine/tranny is the case for street bikes like Honda CBR's where they share the oil between engine and tranny.

Zinc Concentration (ppm, ICP)
Though viscosity is critical in terms of wear protection, it does have limitations. Component loading can exceed the load carrying
ability of the oil. When that occurs, partial or full contact results between components and wear will occur. Chemical additives
are added to the oil as the last line of defense to control wear in these conditions. These additives have an attraction to
metal surfaces and create a sacrificial coating on engine parts. If contact occurs the additive coating takes the abuse to minimize
component wear. The most common additive used in internal combustion engine oils is zinc dithiophosphate (ZDP). A
simple way of reviewing ZDP levels within an oil is to measure the zinc content. It should be noted that ZDP defines a group
of zinc-containing compounds that vary in composition, quality and performance. Quantity of zinc content alone does not indicate
its performance. Therefore, it cannot be assumed that oils with higher concentrations of zinc provide better wear protection.
Additional testing must be reviewed to determine an oil’s actual ability to prevent wear.The wear testing further in this document
reflects the general lack of correlation between zinc levels and wear protection.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
CAM of Worms

I love your posts Sven. They actually make sense to me. I don't agree always but...
Hey shov, :2thumbs: Mine 'have to' make sense. Look at what I am working with. Is there fuel/spark/compression to start any engine or BBQ? Yes! Show me where you disagree I bring in the 3-V's [variables] you die with. :roll:

That made sense, no? No really, thanks for the kudo. Just fun'inn.

So anyway, I switch to autos for a little portfolio background. They throw me in 'heavy line' so I am engine/trans/rear: as opposed to a 15A being interior. She never checked or changed her oil. It comes in with a noise. I pop the valve cover off. The oil literally returned back to light sweet crude it was that caked all over the engine parts. What vaporized was very little. I see a few quarts splattered and baked on everything and she still ran in that air vapor, not being too much oil being sucked up the oil pump. With 32,000 miles on the speedo, think how not changing the oil every 3k and this CAMaro kept on running EYE ZINK!?!?! :eek: :D

We can-a-worm out of that one with or without the zink? So would the heat destroy any new chemical mix they come up with? Would the chemical base be all polymer'd out? Would the light sweet kick bake inn and you be cooking, looking hathatrick, come up wit year own 30yr cook in a can?

I rest my hook, year honor.
 

mark whitrock

Active Member
I would never use synthetic for a wet clutch that's just being stupid! as is running 20-50 in a transmission..... As for the oil maker writing the article well go on line and you will see the one that claims they are the best says use their 20/50 in all three how ridiculous... And they are behind every comparison and chart and guess what their oil always comes out at the top of the chart, total BS..... Mobil-1 for the motor. Spectro synthetic 75/140 for trans, Spectro non synthetic in the primary. Just makes sense....
 

VT Chad

Member
I belong to 3 different websites, this one for my motorcycle, one for my snowmobile and one for my chainsaws. Which oil is "best" has been beat to death on all 3.
 
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