Matt300ZXT
Member
I'm watching Marky Marc's Asylum's YouTube video on a newer Big Dog than mine but I'm assuming all of the clutch adjustments are the same procedure and settings?
Are all clutch adjustment procedures the same?
- Thread starter Matt300ZXT
- Start date
HMAN
I just like my Freedom
Yep. With the cavet, your results may vary! Seems like each clutch develops its "sweet spot" for hitting neutral easy. It may take several tries to find it. By that I mean when adjusting the clutch rod, you may find that a 1/8 turn out from touch is not enough or perhaps too much. They all adjust the same but the "tweak" may be different on each bike. If any of that makes sense? Procedure is the same tho.
Matt300ZXT
Member
Alright, well since she's down for a few days while I wait for my carb rebuild parts to get here, I guess I can kill some time by checking the clutch adjustment and lube up my cable with this handy dandy cable luber tool I got. Since my carb is off I might as well look up some methods for lubing the throttle cables as well.
Matt300ZXT
Member
Well I went out there and gave it my best. After I got the cable loosened up I was able to crack the nut free and back the allen wrench bolt out some. The videos say turn it until you start feeling some resistance. I would start screwing it back in and it'd hit a patch and then free up. It did that a time or two, but after that it started resisting and staying there, so I backed it out and went back to that point and then cranked it back out about 1/2 a turn and then tightened the lock nut back down. I put a penny in between the clutch lever and the part that bolts to the handle bars and cranked on the cable until it tightened up and had that little bit of free play in the cable and tightened everything back up. I'm hoping I'm done, that wasn't bad at all.
That bastard lock nut was ON there....had to break it free with a socket it was so tight and it was rotating the engine over until it finally gave up the ghost and broke loose. Watching another Harley adjustment video, this guy is using a long allen key and says turn it until it stops with just the weight of the key, then back it off. I used a t-bar allen wrench. Do I need to go get a set of keys and spin it until the weight of the key is all it takes to stop it?
That bastard lock nut was ON there....had to break it free with a socket it was so tight and it was rotating the engine over until it finally gave up the ghost and broke loose. Watching another Harley adjustment video, this guy is using a long allen key and says turn it until it stops with just the weight of the key, then back it off. I used a t-bar allen wrench. Do I need to go get a set of keys and spin it until the weight of the key is all it takes to stop it?
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HMAN
I just like my Freedom
1/2 turn sounds waaay too much. Start with an 1/8 of a turn. If you have an offset 11/16 box end wrench it makes it easier. That way you have the wrench box end on the nut and can still turn the rod with your t-handle. When you hit the spot and back off you can tighten the nut while holding the rod in the exact spot ya want. It may take ya a bit to get it dialed in but thats the bonding part of Dog ownership! Once you get a feel for where the rod contacts you will never forget it and the process becomes easier. Take ur time and take breaks n pictures.
Matt300ZXT
Member
It was between 1/4 and 1/2, so I guess 1/3 of a turn. I do need to get an angled wrench of some kind, that would make it so much easier. The depth of the nut in relation to the surface of the clutch assembly makes it tough to get a regular wrench on there but with me not torqueing it back down like it was on there before I adjusted it should make it much easier to get back off. What is the real world difference going to feel like if I need to go back in and tighten it back up a smidge? Is it one of those things that you'll just know when you start trying to ride and shift gears?
HMAN
I just like my Freedom
You will know if got it. With clutch pulled in completly you should have no "creep". Neutral will be a breeze to hit as well. It can take a few times @ first but you will get it. A small amount either way will not be a terrible thing but try for that "sweet spot". Adjust, ride, evaluate. Repeat until you are happy.
Matt300ZXT
Member
Speaking of creep, I did notice the last time I rode it before I attempted to adjust the carb (that's a whole other post lol), when I had the clutch fully in and put it in first to get started letting the clutch out to get going, it wanted to move forward just a little bit but would stop after that, then was able to slowly let out the clutch for it to engage. Me thinks it isn't supposed to do that. When I get this carb rebuilt and put back on I'll see how the clutch feels and if I need to, I'll readjust. Thanks!
What year is this bike again? ‘04 & earlier would be 1/2 turn like Harley
Matt300ZXT
Member
It's an 02
Yeah yours would be like a 1/2 turn back after touching the clutch pushrod. But it certainly could take a few tries to get it just where you want it.
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
Regardless of the specifics of adjusting the clutch, the outcome is whats important. It should not creep with the clutch handle pulled in and should not slip when under heavy load. Because the adj is a touch/feel type it's different for each mechanic.
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
The easiest way I've seen to make sure you hit the right point of touching the throwout bearing is to remove the outer primary cover and watch for the engagement from that side as you turn the allen key.
HMAN
I just like my Freedom
Good afternoon. Can the drive not spin at all due to a pinched clutch? from Russian