Anyone unable to change a 300 by hand?

Energy One

Dawgboy

Active Member
It’s looking like I am going to give it a shot since I can't find a local shop that is equipped to handle a 300 other than the HD dealer. Like to hear people’s experiences (good or bad) on this topic. I did see a how to so I know it can be done.

Also, what (if anything) do I have to do with the rear brake. I can’t see how the bracket attaches to the frame. Do I need to remove the bracket, caliper, both?? I assume I can leave the brake line intact.

Thanks
 
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toodie

Active Member
My bike the brake caliper was not bolted to the frame. There is like a dog ear/guide the caliper slides over then the axle goes thru the bottom of the caliper. Floating caliper?? Remove and intall of wheel is not too difficult...As for changing the tire out I was not that ambitious I took the wheel/tire to a shop to mount the new tire. Also used dyna beads!
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/how/20085-rear-tire-how-change-300-others.html
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/how/30448-advanced-maintenance.html
 

Dawgboy

Active Member
My bike the brake caliper was not bolted to the frame. There is like a dog ear/guide the caliper slides over then the axle goes thru the bottom of the caliper.
So did you leave the brake caliper and line intact and just zip tie or tape it so it didn't drop when you removed the axle?
 
So did you leave the brake caliper and line intact and just zip tie or tape it so it didn't drop when you removed the axle?
I left everything intact and just unbolted the brake caliper from the caliper bracket and zip tyed it to the swingarm. When you remove the brake caliper keep an eye out for the washers that are behind the brake caliper where it bolts to the caliper bracket.
 

Dawgboy

Active Member
I left everything intact and just unbolted the brake caliper from the caliper bracket and zip tyed it to the swingarm. When you remove the brake caliper keep an eye out for the washers that are behind the brake caliper where it bolts to the caliper bracket.

So Alan, Thanks for the input.

Did you mount your own tire?
 

08mastiff

Active Member
When I did my back tire I was able to break the bead and take the tire off. After breaking the bead I took a sawzall and cut the steel belt that rests around the bead and the tire came off easily. Didnt want to fight the tire with crowbars so I took the easy route. I cleaned the rim real well and attempted to put the new tire but struggled and after a half hour I quit and took it to a shop. The previous year I was able to change the front tire but the rear fought me. Didn't want to damage the rim with slipping crowbars. Cost $20 for the shop to mount it and I put dynabeads in it at home. Took the hubs apart and changed the bearings as well. The brake you will have no issues with at all.
 

Moespeeds

Well-Known Member
I've done plenty of tires by hand, the rear's aren't bad I always seem to have more trouble with the fronts. Get rubber coated tire spoons, and do it on the front lawn so you don't have to worry about manhandling the wheel and scratching it on the bottom. Use soapy water for lube, and make sure you got a hefty compressor or you'll never get the bead to pop.
 

Dawgboy

Active Member
I've done plenty of tires by hand, the rear's aren't bad I always seem to have more trouble with the fronts. Get rubber coated tire spoons, and do it on the front lawn so you don't have to worry about manhandling the wheel and scratching it on the bottom. Use soapy water for lube, and make sure you got a hefty compressor or you'll never get the bead to pop.

Thanks for the tips Moe. I have been all over looking for spoons. I havent seen any rubber coated ones though. I figured I would tape them up and make myself some rim protectors.

Any of the rears you did 300's?
 

Thors

Active Member
Did my 300 a few months ago. Wasn't too bad-I watched a bunch of vids on YouTube and combined the various techniques.
 

Five Five

Well-Known Member
I've done plenty of tires by hand, the rear's aren't bad I always seem to have more trouble with the fronts. Get rubber coated tire spoons, and do it on the front lawn so you don't have to worry about manhandling the wheel and scratching it on the bottom. Use soapy water for lube, and make sure you got a hefty compressor or you'll never get the bead to pop.
Good Stuff Moe... to set the bead I use "sure start" a 2 second burst inside the tire and a propane torch to ignite it.. "POW"
and the bead is fully seated.... be careful not too much "Sure Start"
 

ksmike

Active Member
Good Stuff Moe... to set the bead I use "sure start" a 2 second burst inside the tire and a propane torch to ignite it.. "POW"
and the bead is fully seated.... be careful not too much "Sure Start"
I have used starting fluid to seat the beads on my skid loader and tractor tires also, it can be pretty exciting sometimes.

Another slightly safer way is to use a ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire to squeeze it out to the bead. Air it up and release the strap. But I have never tried this method on a bike tire.
 
I have changed my 300 three times now and each time I have only used Compressed air to seat the bead. Make sure you clean the bead area well so you don't end up with any slow leaks.
 

Dawgboy

Active Member
I have changed my 300 three times now and each time I have only used Compressed air to seat the bead. Make sure you clean the bead area well so you don't end up with any slow leaks.
Hey Kap, what are you using to clean the rim? Emery paper work?
 
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