Any help appreciated... Broke down at Sturgis currently in Hill City

[ridersonthestorm]

New battery installed a month ago and all was fine. Turn key on and appears to have plenty of battery but won't start. Tries to turn over but acts like not enough juice. Hooked portable charger up which started it but then died. Won't turn over since

 

[HMAN]

Send a pm @StreetHog. He is in Scott city. About as close as you are gonna get. .

 

[c.c.rider]

Did you try and run and jump start.

 

[Hirter6Pack]

Did you try pushing in the compression relief on top of the heads?

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

If it started with the jump start and died right afterwards you may be looking at a VR/Stator issue.
If/when you get in charge up the battery and start the bike -- if it starts and runs check the voltage from the VR and make sure its charging.
And as always check that the cables are all tight!
Sorry can't be more help right now but I'm on the east coast.

 

[ridersonthestorm]

Thx all! Got it started with the jump box and made it to camp. Bike died with a loud bang pulling in. Battery dead again but here!!

 

[ridersonthestorm]

Also I did check cables and had the bike on battery tender all night. It never did get to full charge

 

[Reddickracing]

Bad Battery.

 

[Dakotabos]

Do you need assistance?

605 858-5438 I'm a local

PS I work 8pm to 8am so call anytime Except 10 am to 3 pm I may not answer.....I need some sleep some days ha

 

[Th3InfamousI]

Thx all! Got it started with the jump box and made it to camp. Bike died with a loud bang pulling in. Battery dead again but here!!

Battery prob fried, just hopefully that's the only culprit.

Glad to hear you made it back safely!

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[Reddickracing]

Did you get it going?

 

[liferider]

I’m up in Spearfish but i will be in Deadwood today at noon @ tattoo studio. Call me if I can help.3184707288

 

[liferider]

Black Hills Cycle is up here in Spearfish, they are open through the rally and use to be Bigdog dealers if you need them. They will come get your bike if need be. I-90 west to exit 8, go south 1:4 mile they are on the left at the 1st stop sign. Right down the street from where I’m staying also I have used them before when my starter shit out in 2009

 

[liferider]

Wonder how he made out??

 

[ridersonthestorm]

Thought my reply went thru but yes made it back to camp with a jump and I it back fired and died just as we rolled in. Back in Colorado and taking battery in tomorrow to get exchanged.

 

[Sven]

...a jump and I it back fired and died just as we rolled in.

The charging system has 3 basic parts:
1. Stator/rotor has the ability to keep the bike running; as long as the rpm puts out the AC. The lower the rpm, the lower the voltage output, goes poop with a pop. So you associate the slowing down as you rolled up, you got there, it's putting out so it's not the stator-rotor.
2. Vo/Reg has the ability to DTT the excess volts to ground or the AC would have blown the bulbs with that kind of volt against the watt of the bulbs, meaning, it can control and regulate the input and deliver the proper output, it's not the voltage regulator.
3. Battery has the ability to act as a resistor. So even though the battery lost the amperage or can no longer store said demand to push the starter motor over, the surface output of the stator/vo-reg can keep the black box, coil, lights going at a certain rpm threshold. But when the rpm drops, this is where the battery keeps feeding 12v out to the black box, but cannot even push 12v out of the battery. So getting you to camp, then home, it shows 1 and 2 are performing their tasks, so it narrows it down to the battery.

Make sense we narrow down 3 simple variables?

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

The charging system has 3 basic parts:
1. Stator/rotor has the ability to keep the bike running; as long as the rpm puts out the AC. The lower the rpm, the lower the voltage output, goes poop with a pop. So you associate the slowing down as you rolled up, you got there, it's putting out so it's not the stator-rotor.
2. Vo/Reg has the ability to DTT the excess volts to ground or the AC would have blown the bulbs with that kind of volt against the watt of the bulbs, meaning, it can control and regulate the input and deliver the proper output, it's not the voltage regulator.
3. Battery has the ability to act as a resistor. So even though the battery lost the amperage or can no longer store said demand to push the starter motor over, the surface output of the stator/vo-reg can keep the black box, coil, lights going at a certain rpm threshold. But when the rpm drops, this is where the battery keeps feeding 12v out to the black box, but cannot even push 12v out of the battery. So getting you to camp, then home, it shows 1 and 2 are performing their tasks, so it narrows it down to the battery.

Make sense we narrow down 3 simple variables?

Sven, I must disagree with your statement 1.
If you have a fully charged battery and a bad stator you can get hundreds of miles on the bike (without restarts). I know I rode from somewhere in Alabama to Panama City Beach one year with a fresh battery and a blown stator (fueled up at least once maybe twice both times still running-wasn't going to take a chance that it would start again.) I was 260 miles from my dest when I left inthe AM and at the first stop the battery was dead -- So it was a minimum of 150 miles with a blown stator, likely more and I was riding 2 up as well.

 

[Sven]

Mike, I'll agree partially. We run 'total loss' for racing purposes. That means we charge the battery, eliminate the weight and drag of the stator and we can almost get 10 laps before the battery dies. With your experience, you may have had partial volts being made that kept the bike running for that long. A motherboard runs under 5v and if the battery drops, so will the 5v. Say an 02 runs 0.01v to 0.9v. That's almost a volt needed to switch back and forth to run in stoich (14.7). Say another sensor runs 4.?v and change. It can't run in a 3v world. Make sense we use ohm's law to calc the drop in volts of 12 to 5v needed in the constant? Say a stator dies. Usually it's one side. So there is the other magnetic wave swapping from N to S, where S is the resistance, N is the push of so many volts up the wire say. You still pulsed out the 16v v resistance = new volt up the wire = Balanced. Say that one side to keep the total loss from being lost.

 

[Th3InfamousI]

Sven, I must disagree with your statement 1.
If you have a fully charged battery and a bad stator you can get hundreds of miles on the bike (without restarts). I know I rode from somewhere in Alabama to Panama City Beach one year with a fresh battery and a blown stator (fueled up at least once maybe twice both times still running-wasn't going to take a chance that it would start again.) I was 260 miles from my dest when I left inthe AM and at the first stop the battery was dead -- So it was a minimum of 150 miles with a blown stator, likely more and I was riding 2 up as well.

Mike, I'll agree partially. We run 'total loss' for racing purposes. That means we charge the battery, eliminate the weight and drag of the stator and we can almost get 10 laps before the battery dies. With your experience, you may have had partial volts being made that kept the bike running for that long. A motherboard runs under 5v and if the battery drops, so will the 5v. Say an 02 runs 0.01v to 0.9v. That's almost a volt needed to switch back and forth to run in stoich (14.7). Say another sensor runs 4.?v and change. It can't run in a 3v world. Make sense we use ohm's law to calc the drop in volts of 12 to 5v needed in the constant? Say a stator dies. Usually it's one side. So there is the other magnetic wave swapping from N to S, where S is the resistance, N is the push of so many volts up the wire say. You still pulsed out the 16v v resistance = new volt up the wire = Balanced. Say that one side to keep the total loss from being lost.

Now one thing to consider though if the battery has a bad cell it can just stop intermittently. For example could run 10 minutes or 20 minutes or 15 minutes on a jump or less. Just a matter of how it flows.

Just had this issue on my truck not even a cycle. Truck would stay running just fine if I unhooked the battery and just left the truck on the jump pack to regulate the voltage. If I hooked up the battery it would intermittently die. I guess it just matters when the bad cell is crossed. One time I drove 3 miles and the then just 1/4mile.

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[Nukeranger]

I have a Triumph that had a battery with a bad cell about 16 years ago. It drove me crazy until it decided to show itself.