Another victom clutch lever went limp

[phatchopper300]

Yep had my tranny rebuilt by Andrew with upgraded SKF bearings very pleased with shifting and how quite shifting was.. now on with the story enjoyed a Saturday ride did a short 150 miles. Great Ridge no issues.
Went for a ride on Sunday with brother-in-law. First 50 miles great and all of the sudden clutch lever went limp. Pulled off side of road. Adjusted push rod and clutch cable. Took off went 3 miles and it happened again clutch lever went limp. Brother-in-law went home got a trailer pick the bike up took it home. I just got into the primary low and behold the clutch hub nut was at the end of the main shaft could have twisted it off with my fingers go figure. Easy fix I even had the upgraded nut. Will be using extra red loctite. I knew it had to be clutch hub nut or the throwout bearings one of the two.
Easy fix!

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[Jwooky]

Wow.

You know the routine. Clean..... I mean super clean with lacquer thinner the nut and shaft. Really dig down in the crest of the threads.

Apply red loctite. I like to use a a small brush to completely coat the threads on shaft and nut.

Now, there is some controversy on torque. The manual says 80ft-lbs. I believe Andrew recommended 150ft-lbs, and Baker 125ft-lbs. I used 125ft-lbs

 

[BWG56]

I went to 150

 

[Little-Boo]

I put 80 on mine then loosen it up and re-torqued to 100 , then 125 with a ton or red Loctite

Have not had a problem so far.

Carlos

 

[darsdog]

Is this the jam nut that you adjust the clutch your talking about?

 

[FrankBDPS]

Glad you got it fixed with no other damage. Good reminder to the guys who may be doing some clutch work this winter.

 

[Jwooky]

I put 80 on mine then loosen it up and re-torqued to 100 , then 125 with a ton or red Loctite

Have not had a problem so far.

Carlos

What is the thought behind that process?

 

[woodbutcher]

CLEAN EVERYTHING THREAD RELATED, re-assemble, torque to 150lbft dry, remove the nut, apply red loctite, torque to 125 lbft. this was the amended procedure from Big Dog.

 

[Jwooky]

CLEAN EVERYTHING THREAD RELATED, re-assemble, torque to 150lbft dry, remove the nut, apply red loctite, torque to 125 lbft. this was the amended procedure from Big Dog.

I don't understand the logic behind that.

 

[heybaylor]

the clutch hub nut is left-handed thread..
keep that in mind when you downshift hard to slow down .

power on torque tends to tighten the nut
high torque downshifting tends to loosen.
use locktite, use your brakes to slow down.

 

[phatchopper300]

Clean everything very well including all threads reinstalled push rod adjusted clutch reinstalled pipes cleaned everything up took it for a ride all this good ready for the spring

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[BWG56]

CLEAN EVERYTHING THREAD RELATED, re-assemble, torque to 150lbft dry, remove the nut, apply red loctite, torque to 125 lbft. this was the amended procedure from Big Dog.

I don't understand the logic behind that.

That's because he's old and you always forget if you did it or not, so if you do it twice maybe you will remember doing it once. And before you say anything I will admit, yes I'm saying this from experience

 

[woodbutcher]

just relaying what was given us back in the day when BDM was still in business. take or leave, up to you.

 

[Sven]

CLEAN EVERYTHING THREAD RELATED

Common sense on this part being logical, yes?

re-assemble, torque to 150lbft dry, remove the nut

1. Tapered shaft with drift key, spline style, etc.
a. Key slides out of its slot = shaft remains stationary, hub assembly spins with tight nut.
b. Spline type is sent home so as noting the thread ends to nut, as if the nut goes on half way, sticks out.
c. The logical move is why go through all that when you may have to tear it all down on the first try. This way the taper is locked in place, proper threads left at the end of the shaft you assemble it [first] as per design.

apply red loctite, torque to 125 lbft. this was the amended procedure from Big Dog.

2. This might be the assembly procedure of not catching the key out of place, a galling of spline [hanging up its distance] going in; with the clutch center hub assembly not being sent home all the way.
a. Wipe ass before pulling up undies = Clean threads.
b. Check your work then send the nut home = Well, we looking as we go?
c. Good job! Now add the red shit and retorque = Book Procedure [amended for squiduty]... "And before you say anything I will admit, yes I'm saying this from experience." ... And Me Too!

 

[Unsprung]

I don't understand the logic behind that.

My thought is it may be a similar process to installing a wheel bearing, the first torque sequence seats the seal and bearing, (or clutch hub), then it is loosened and retorqued at the final setting.

 

[woodbutcher]

thanks, Sven, i actually understood that. WOOHOO.

 

[jbs1968]

I think this is the update for the clutch hub nut. Also don't quote me, but I think there is a section here were it was said to torque to 175 or 200 to set the main shaft. Then remove nut apply loc tite and then torque to 150.
Hope this helps Joe