Another clutch thread

[vej]

So I know this has been covered 100times, but once again...

My 2008 Mastiff LE has a slipping clutch. Clutch has been adjusted. I've put 40,000 miles on it and had some warped clutch plates so I bought a new clutch pack and the biggest spring Baker makes for it (rated I think to 200hp). Installed it all and adjusted.... Still slipping. Pulled hub nut off and ran down with impact...still slipping.

This isn't the 3rd or 4th gear slipping. I'm talking: shift to 2nd and give it gas and the rpm's hit 4G before your doing 20mph kind of slipping!

I know the answer people like to toss out is "buy a bandit", but 1) we shouldn't have to (especially on an almost stock engine 2) I don't have the $$$... Idea's?!

 

[DRBarnhart]

I know this will probably sound stupid but if everything is right in the clutch basket and your clutch is slipping it has to be due to one (or both) of the following...

1. you've adjusted the rod and/or cable too tight
2. the fliud you're running in the primary.

There really isn't anything else. (Yeah, I know, duh!!!! )
When you turn the rod in during adjustment what are you turning it with? I ask because you really have to pay attention to when that rod touches. Takes a very light touch to get to the "sweet spot". I use an allen wrench that has the "L" cut off it which makes it a lot harder to just crank in the rod...

Dennis

 

[vej]

Adjusted last night with the primary open. My cousin watched and told me each time the throwout bearing moved, which matched the pressure I felt on my T-handle Allen. I have the Allen going through an open end Gearhead socket so I could hold the T-handle still when I tightened the jam nut.

 

[DRBarnhart]

I know you know to back off the rod 1/4 turn counterclockwise from the point you feel tension but have you tried going a little further, say 1/2 turn?

Dennis

 

[vej]

I guess that couldn't hurt to try... I'll do it tomorrow night!

 

[vej]

OK, Next idea

So, it isn't the rod... any other idea's?!

 

[Pops]

What type of fluid and how much ??

 

[PurpleDog]

So, it isn't the rod... any other idea's?!

Have you measured your tolerances? You should verify dome height; range is .020 to .068 on an 07 with 12 stack - I imagine yours could be different with a 9 but I don't have an 08 Svc Manual. You should verify stack height and verify that you didn't leave out the thick .120 thick starter steel plate etc...

These things aren't that complicated as you seem to be aware, but lacking further details its difficult to know what you have going on. Understand that 'it isn't the rod' doesn't tell any of what you did specifically to eliminate the possibility of procedural error; therefore, we are left to assume you know what you are doing right.

I don't really disagree that you shouldn't have to buy a Bandit; but that means you've made a decision to troubleshoot what you have going wrong. So, is your new clutch pack and dome height within the specified range of tolerance for your model year or not?

 

[vej]

Fluid

What type of fluid and how much ??

Spectrum Primary on one fill and v-twin wetclutch 10w40 on another. 1 quart (32oz) as directed in manual and on primary

 

[vej]

You may have the winning answer!!

Have you measured your tolerances? You should verify dome height; range is .020 to .068 on an 07 with 12 stack - I imagine yours could be different with a 9 but I don't have an 08 Svc Manual. You should verify stack height and verify that you didn't leave out the thick .120 thick starter steel plate etc...

These things aren't that complicated as you seem to be aware, but lacking further details its difficult to know what you have going on. Understand that 'it isn't the rod' doesn't tell any of what you did specifically to eliminate the possibility of procedural error; therefore, we are left to assume you know what you are doing right.

I don't really disagree that you shouldn't have to buy a Bandit; but that means you've made a decision to troubleshoot what you have going wrong. So, is your new clutch pack and dome height within the specified range of tolerance for your model year or not?

You MAY have hit the nail on the head..... you said, "didn't leave out the thick .120 thick starter steel plate " .... i think that is my problem. I bought the new clutch pack and put it in.... the 1st plate in was a friction plate! I guess (please correct me) I need to grab the original "thick starter plate" from my old pack and put it in 1st????

And you made a very good point. If an individual isn't more specific, it's hard to assist.... my appologies. I've rebuilt bikes, cars, transmissions, etc, etc... I understand mechanics very well... that's why I've been frustrated. Everything measures out to spec... again, that's why I was so thrown.

But anyway, just to confirm, there should be a "starter" plate (the thick one) that goes on 1st, NOT a friction plate... correct?

Thanks!

 

[PurpleDog]

You MAY have hit the nail on the head..... you said, "didn't leave out the thick .120 thick starter steel plate " .... i think that is my problem. I bought the new clutch pack and put it in.... the 1st plate in was a friction plate! I guess (please correct me) I need to grab the original "thick starter plate" from my old pack and put it in 1st????

And you made a very good point. If an individual isn't more specific, it's hard to assist.... my appologies. I've rebuilt bikes, cars, transmissions, etc, etc... I understand mechanics very well... that's why I've been frustrated. Everything measures out to spec... again, that's why I was so thrown.

But anyway, just to confirm, there should be a "starter" plate (the thick one) that goes on 1st, NOT a friction plate... correct?

Thanks!

Correct, thick steel plate goes in first - not a friction....:up:

 

[vej]

Correct, thick steel plate goes in first - not a friction....:up:

Ok, looked at all my old plates, they all look to be the same thickness. Although I know I didn't put a solid on 1st!

 

[PurpleDog]

Ok, looked at all my old plates, they all look to be the same thickness. Although I know I didn't put a solid on 1st!

Well, I don't have first hand experience with the newer style 9 stack & easy pull ramp as I haven't had to get into the wife's Coyote yet.

But I am reasonably certain that you need a starter steel plate in there versus starting off your stack with a friction. I would take your original starter steel and put it in there and test it if I were in your shoes at this point. Ideally you would have picked up a new one of those at the same time if your new clutch pack didn't come with it. Keep in mind I am assuming you are sure that you didn't unknowingly leave the starter steel in there. An 08 Svc Manual would confirm this and the size for you; maybe someone who has one will chime in if you don't have one.

Bottom line, you shouldn't have a friction directly against your carrier in my experience.

 

[BBChopper]

I think Jim's onto somtin' here!!!!

Bottom line, you shouldn't have a friction directly against your carrier in my experience.

Well, I don't have first hand experience with the newer style 9 stack & easy pull ramp as I haven't had to get into the wife's Coyote yet.

But I am reasonably certain that you need a starter steel plate in there versus starting off your stack with a friction. I would take your original starter steel and put it in there and test it if I were in your shoes at this point. Ideally you would have picked up a new one of those at the same time if your new clutch pack didn't come with it. Keep in mind I am assuming you are sure that you didn't unknowingly leave the starter steel in there. An 08 Svc Manual would confirm this and the size for you; maybe someone who has one will chime in if you don't have one.

Bottom line, you shouldn't have a friction directly against your carrier in my experience.

 

[vej]

I was wrong

Ok, I was wrong... Took it apart again and sure enough I did start it out with a steel plate. I usually don't miss things like that but I was hoping maybe this time I did. So I droped it off at the shop to let them take a look and see whats wrong or what I could have possibly missed. Like I said, done it all right, step by step, several times. Even had a second set of eyes on it. Just don't see what's wrong.

Well, I don't have first hand experience with the newer style 9 stack & easy pull ramp as I haven't had to get into the wife's Coyote yet.

But I am reasonably certain that you need a starter steel plate in there versus starting off your stack with a friction. I would take your original starter steel and put it in there and test it if I were in your shoes at this point. Ideally you would have picked up a new one of those at the same time if your new clutch pack didn't come with it. Keep in mind I am assuming you are sure that you didn't unknowingly leave the starter steel in there. An 08 Svc Manual would confirm this and the size for you; maybe someone who has one will chime in if you don't have one.

Bottom line, you shouldn't have a friction directly against your carrier in my experience.

 

[vej]

Still unsure

So the bike has been in the shop for near a week now, still unsure of the issue. They said the Main shaft was out of round and replaced it, they've adjust and adjusted... Still not working.

 

[vej]

Update - Fixed

After Baker had the mechanic replace, Main shaft, bearing, try new plates etc etc... The problem was the pressure plate! The original pressure plate looked perfect, no warpage, scoring, wear... but the replacement plate works perfect!

WTF!?

 

[PurpleDog]

Please don't tell us how much it cost you in labor to figure that out; I won't tell you how much a bandit would have been to do yourself in under an hr - deal...

 

[aspen874]

Eric, glad you found the problem and are up and running

 

[vej]

Please don't tell us how much it cost you in labor to figure that out; I won't tell you how much a bandit would have been to do yourself in under an hr - deal...

BD Tampa rocks.... Cost me $96 ( I have an extended warranty) and some of the wife's brownies!