Advice on purchasing used

Hizapitt

New Member
Morning,
I am looking at a used 2008 Mastiff this coming Thursday. 1,500 miles and $8k. I see some complaints on wiring. Is there any tips or things to look for? I see talk of changing part of the harness and controller. Any way to tell if that has been done? Any advice would be great
 

pknowles

RETIRED
Supporting Member
You can always start by asking the seller some of these questions and when you get there, ha e them pull the seat and post a few pictures of the battery box area. Is it a private seller or is it setting at a dealer? With the given milage, I'm leaning towards a one owner that never rode it. Good luck on the hunt
 

TapioK

Well-Known Member
more likely a new speedo, 150 miles per year... Why would the EHC be changed if the bike has never been used, if not used the date on tires should read 07 or 08?
Original speedos being pretty much crap, most of them are replaced, odometer reading is very often useless... unless you can tell the speedo is original...
 

Hizapitt

New Member
This is a local used bike dealer that also has a shop in IL. They are having it shipped down. I am guessing they got it at auction or trade in. I am sure they will be clueless.
Is a 8k decent for the year?
 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
if it is how it is represented, that would probably be high end of price range. but it would have to have everything mint. if you need to replace the EHC, that will be at least $800 DIY, tires at least $500 installed, detailing will cost whatever you want to charge for your labor x minimum 30 hours, etc. plus, the price doesn't really go up anymore with the higher level paint like it used to.
 

Ernie12

Active Member
Morning,
I am looking at a used 2008 Mastiff this coming Thursday. 1,500 miles and $8k. I see some complaints on wiring. Is there any tips or things to look for? I see talk of changing part of the harness and controller. Any way to tell if that has been done? Any advice would be great
Look inside the gas tank to see if the liner is peeling or any noticeable floating pieces. Look under the bike also for any fluids leaking. Check the motor oil level and transmission fluid. Just take your time and go over the whole bike.
 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
while you are under the bike looking for leaks, look at the frame and check for scrubs/dents showing a lot of hits on speedbumps, etc. a few scrapes are kinda normal but watch for the big ones.
 

mjsk9

Well-Known Member
if it is how it is represented, that would probably be high end of price range. but it would have to have everything mint. if you need to replace the EHC, that will be at least $800 DIY, tires at least $500 installed, detailing will cost whatever you want to charge for your labor x minimum 30 hours, etc. plus, the price doesn't really go up anymore with the higher level paint like it used to.
Damn Wood..... are you working for an insurance company? 2008 for $8K = "high end price range"? Below are the NADA Values...1572867965994.png
Don't think they will get what they are asking, but far cry from $8K... Just sayin!1572868320325.png
 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
LOL, not me. I would hope that the prices actually are up that high, but the asking price and the actual selling price are rarely the same. if the prices are that high, maybe I should think about selling my '07 K9. what it all boils down to is they are worth what you are willing to pay for them.
 
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Sven

Well-Known Member
It's easy to walk away from a bike if one of these can be checked off on the list... you find another that you can't check off:
1. Walk the bike 360°. Bar ends, lever ends, foot pegs, fork stop damage says drop or crash to either side is a walk away.
2. Walk to the rear of the bike. Bike must be cold for and overnight drip to occur. Owner fires bike off. A puff of smoke and it clears, it's guides. Puffs while running, it's rings. Not worth the price when a rebuild is needed so you walk from this one.
3. Walk up to the numbers at the frame and match engine and frame numbers to title. No title, no transaction, and you run from this one.
4. Walk up to the bike with a spark plug tool and compression tester. One cylinder is down from the other, your top 3 have no check marks, you show the difference and renegotiate the price... is when you don't walk away from this but buy on the cheap.
 
As stated , and sometimes more important to look under the bike than on top. Check edges of jugs and such for any signs of wetness. With any bike I can look at in person I check it as if giving it a state inspection. Loose floating rotors sometimes will give you some haggle room.
 
Morning,
I am looking at a used 2008 Mastiff this coming Thursday. 1,500 miles and $8k. I see some complaints on wiring. Is there any tips or things to look for? I see talk of changing part of the harness and controller. Any way to tell if that has been done? Any advice would be great
Always chechk the "TIRE DATES"!
 
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