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Energy One
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Sven

Well-Known Member
My wallet opens for costco and their stocking of chevron's brand and who gives a shit about w, it's cheap. Had an oil sponsor back in the day, and am still mixing 45 year old 50w racing with the cheap shit. Be it 10w30, 20w50, 10w40, meaning, whatever is leftover to top off the other 2 qts, plus 2 qts of 50w racing. That's a mix of 4 w's. And I've been depleting the race oil between car and bike rotations all those years. Every 3k no matter the engine. I've done my own R&D on a few 4-stroke engines. Mixing syn with the old racing oil and those old oil specs, cough, I don't see big end rod inserts winding up in between the pleats of all those oil filters I cut open. Call the filter; looking at a 3-D x-ray of the engine.

I called exxon and asked what the shelf life of oil was? If you believe the answer was 500 years, cough, what's 45 years then? After a race, the bike sits between races. Next race up, I pop the valve cover off and can see how dry the cams are, the valve cover comes off dry. My guess is, if I pulled the cover off next day, it might be just as dry. What I'm pointing out is the w makes no difference. As fast as that oil pump moves to shutting off the oil light showing pressure, cough, is a w going to make that big a deal in splits of seconds off the wear and tear of startup?

Signed,
NOLTT (numbered oils lives to tell)
 
41bigdawg

41bigdawg

Let the Big Dawg eat !
Who cares if its cheap I aint puttin it in anything I own...do some research find a brand you trust (we all have one) and buy it. I personally don't pay any attention to what it costs I just use what I trust. Shannnon is correct, its all inexpensive compared to repair cost.
 
pknowles

pknowles

RETIRED
Dispatch said:
I agree but I need some for a long-standing flush of clean oil, I don't want the old crappy oil pumping through the motor (motor needs work), on the initial start-up and don't want to use the expensive stuff just yet.

Then... I'll put in the good quality stuff.
Click to expand...
What kind of motor work does she need? :(
 
TapioK

TapioK

Well-Known Member
few $ on oil price on that list doesn’t make any difference...
Was your bike -03? not replacing EHC but going old skool ie. Fat boy style harness might save you a few bucks. Oh I saw on other thread it is -04 Ridgeback, BD hand controls.... Well, if you can sell those you’d may still save some if you do the conversion yourself
 
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Butch Cassidy

Butch Cassidy

Active Member
Sven said:
My wallet opens for costco and their stocking of chevron's brand and who gives a shit about w, it's cheap. Had an oil sponsor back in the day, and am still mixing 45 year old 50w racing with the cheap shit. Be it 10w30, 20w50, 10w40, meaning, whatever is leftover to top off the other 2 qts, plus 2 qts of 50w racing. That's a mix of 4 w's. And I've been depleting the race oil between car and bike rotations all those years. Every 3k no matter the engine. I've done my own R&D on a few 4-stroke engines. Mixing syn with the old racing oil and those old oil specs, cough, I don't see big end rod inserts winding up in between the pleats of all those oil filters I cut open. Call the filter; looking at a 3-D x-ray of the engine.

I called exxon and asked what the shelf life of oil was? If you believe the answer was 500 years, cough, what's 45 years then? After a race, the bike sits between races. Next race up, I pop the valve cover off and can see how dry the cams are, the valve cover comes off dry. My guess is, if I pulled the cover off next day, it might be just as dry. What I'm pointing out is the w makes no difference. As fast as that oil pump moves to shutting off the oil light showing pressure, cough, is a w going to make that big a deal in splits of seconds off the wear and tear of startup?

Signed,
NOLTT (numbered oils lives to tell)
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Sven; you seem to be coughing a lot.... better get checked for that Corona.!!
 
PROFLYER

PROFLYER

SWOLE
@Mr. Wright turned me onto this oil a few years ago. I use it in the dogs, my supermoto and my 68 SS BBC. It's not CHEAP, but oil is CHEAP compared to a blown motor. I do notice that everything runs a lot quieter and smoother with this oil. Great stuff. Find a dealer locally or buy it online.

Update: found several places selling it online for about $9/quart. That's cheaper than Mobil 1 v-twin. I absolutely trust Mr. Wright when it comes to his analysis of oil. He had a Schaeffer rep come by his shop years ago and show him the bearing test with this oil compared to all the other major syn brands and it is hands down the best. Plus is a light green tint which is nice as you can see it slowly age. I also think guys get way too overzealous changing their oil. I try to change all of my stuff once a year, but even every two years is fine if you're not riding a ton (which I'm not, sadly). My BBC really likes this stuff and for some reason doesn't use nearly as much as it did the Rotella Syn or Mobil 1 I used for the first two changes.

Extreme V-Twin Synthetic Plus 20W-50 | Schaeffer Oil

www.schaefferoil.com www.schaefferoil.com
 
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Butch Cassidy

Butch Cassidy

Active Member
PROFLYER said:
@Mr. Wright turned me onto this oil a few years ago. I use it in the dogs, my supermoto and my 68 SS BBC. It's not CHEAP, but oil is CHEAP compared to a blown motor. I do notice that everything runs a lot quieter and smoother with this oil. Great stuff. Find a dealer locally or buy it online.

Update: found several places selling it online for about $9/quart. That's cheaper than Mobil 1 v-twin. I absolutely trust Mr. Wright when it comes to his analysis of oil. He had a Schaeffer rep come by his shop years ago and show him the bearing test with this oil compared to all the other major syn brands and it is hands down the best. Plus is a light green tint which is nice as you can see it slowly age. I also think guys get way too overzealous changing their oil. I try to change all of my stuff once a year, but even every two years is fine if you're not riding a ton (which I'm not, sadly). My BBC really likes this stuff and for some reason doesn't use nearly as much as it did the Rotella Syn or Mobil 1 I used for the first two changes.

Extreme V-Twin Synthetic Plus 20W-50 | Schaeffer Oil

www.schaefferoil.com www.schaefferoil.com
Click to expand...
agreed. I do an oil analysis with Blackstone to set my limits just like when I did with my Freightliner Columbia. Not rocket science, but close.!
An additional note of interest: https://www.blackstone-labs.net12022076_499201703581257_10927515_o.jpg
 
Ray

Ray

Well-Known Member
I ran Schaeffer in my diesel truck, it made it run better it seemed until it got totaled. I still have I think 3 gallons in my garage. It was not 20w50. I talked to the people at Schaeffer and they really believe in all their products. I have to agree with a lot in here , oil is a lot cheaper than major repairs.
 
what?

what?

Active Member
local news station did a piece on differences of oil a while back. the oil was compared and tested. turned out some of the oil was recycled, filtered repackaged and then put on the shelf as new. spend a few bucks when the alternative is a few grand.
 
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