.650 S&S Sidewinder Springs??
- Thread starter ksmike
- Start date
john sachs
Well-Known Member
S&S has had issues with their "bee-hive" springs breaking. They may have solved the problem by switching vendors. They have a good .650" lift triple spring, that I have used with no problems. :up:
I stock AV&V .650" lift springs. They're the best I have found. :2thumbs: I also use Crane .600" lift springs.
John
I stock AV&V .650" lift springs. They're the best I have found. :2thumbs: I also use Crane .600" lift springs.
John
05 old dog
Well-Known Member
johns the man....thanks for all you share with us...
ksmike
Active Member
Thanks John, and everyone else for the input. I was just thinking that the bee-hive springs would be a little quieter, and maybe run cooler due to less parts rubbing together, but I don't want to have to deal with the chance of a broken spring either. I only plan on going with about a .620 lift cam.
Can somebody give mw a walk through on how to change the springs. With the performance work I've done to the motor the S&S tech support recomended I also change my springs to part# 90-2078. Do I have to completely remove the heads to change the springs or can I change them once I get the rocker boxes off. My Compression releases just went bad so I've got to change them out and while I'm in there I might as well change the springs.
Relic
Active Member
Don't believe you want to attempt to change the springs on a Mastiff with the heads still on the motor. It's not impossible but you would have to blow up the cyclinder to hold the valve up and then use speciality / homemade tools to compress the springs to remove the keepers.
You just don't have anything like a rocker stud to get any leverage with (not like car heads).
Believe your best bet is to remove the heads.
You just don't have anything like a rocker stud to get any leverage with (not like car heads).
Believe your best bet is to remove the heads.
V
Guru
As Relic said it would be the best job to remove the heads
Now that being said I did switch the stock springs on my 05 Pitbull over to the S&S .640 springs while the heads were on the bike. I had to configure just about a new rig for each spring. After i had doen the first one (the easy one front exhaust) I knew I was in for a fit and yes the rear exhaust took me two different nights to get it done cause after about a hour I just had to step away and collect my thoughts. Would not do it again like I did.:loony:
There was a outfit htat had a plate setup for sale a while back that was designed for harley heads but I think they went out of business. The set up was about $250 bucks or so for the plate, bolts and different size caps to go on the springs. Just can't think of who it was. Will remember here in a while thou.
ksmike
Active Member
Here is the link for the on engine spring changing tool. $279.99
Engine Building Tools, Engine Builders Supply | GOODSON Tools & Supplies
Engine Building Tools, Engine Builders Supply | GOODSON Tools & Supplies
Relic
Active Member
"V" warned me about a year ago on the difficulity of changing them on the bike (Thanks V).
Since I was pretty sure the valve guides were shot on the bike I was working on (TP boxes / 05 Chop), I chose to just pull the heads.
If we start hearing of broken beehive springs, I may breakdown and buy the tool to change them on the bikes (would need to change mine & my cousin's 08 K-9's / they have the 585's).
Since I was pretty sure the valve guides were shot on the bike I was working on (TP boxes / 05 Chop), I chose to just pull the heads.
If we start hearing of broken beehive springs, I may breakdown and buy the tool to change them on the bikes (would need to change mine & my cousin's 08 K-9's / they have the 585's).
john sachs
Well-Known Member
Too easy to bend a valve with spring change in bike.
John
John