Good point!
3rd set of plugs in 600 miles
- Thread starter Reddog2009
- Start date
Reddog2009
Member
I will post a pic of the plugs tonight when I get home. The plugs are just black and covered in soot. I have only used the enrichener a couple of times to get the bike started, I have never let it idle with it on. I do let my bike idle for about 5 minutes or so before jumping on it. I was just perplexed that I did not foul a plug for the first 1200 miles and after the dealer "adjusted" the carb, I started fouling plugs. The idle mixture must be way off, if this is causing the plugs to foul, considering how little time a bike spends at idle. When I get home tonight, I am going to cut off the white cap off the idle mixture screw, and set a baseline and go from there.
Black is rich!!
Five Five
Well-Known Member
Dead...I acknowledge and agree...I will monitor the thread awaiting the outcome....always something to learn hereMy bet would be "SOOT" black if he's having the fouling issues that he's describing.
It's been my experience that you won't be able to tell much of anything about how it's "breathing" or how it's jetted and tuned from fouled plugs like that.
Install "new"plugs, re-adjust carb after bringing engine to normal operating temp., test ride, then check plugs when everything feels and sound good. :2thumbs:
just my :zz2cents:
dead
TheDeadOne
Banned
:2thumbs:Dead...I acknowledge and agree...I will monitor the thread awaiting the outcome....always something to learn here
BikersDream
We build what you Dream!
Dont know what to say.
Attachments
TheDeadOne
Banned
TheDeadOne
Banned
Gab,
That video is good if your tuning a race engine or maybe even a car with a little bit of mods, but not these bikes. :nono:
If that were the plug out of a bike, it would be popping and very soft on the overall power or HP.
Bikes like torque, that means they like fuel. Just not too much.
Your plugs should look Drk. Brown to Med. Brown at best for the best results.
But for the differences in the continuously changing weather conditions of street riding, the plugs should be somewhere between Drk. Brown to Lt. Blk. with no soot, for the best set up.
Ask (Edit: Sorry, Not Little Boo :nono
"Dakotabos" what happened to his engine when his plugs were that lean, or that color? 
:bang::angry:His pistons went south to Guatemala!
:lol::lol::lol::lol:
just my :zz2cents: again, though.
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Gabriel
Active Member
The OP mentioned a "test" run for discovery in which case the video is a viable example of correct temperature. It is by no means a description of overall jetting, it is for temp range only. could be that the plugs are too cold to stay clean, this video describes those types of conditions and how to make that determination on a new plug where color is yet to form.Gab,
That video is good if your tuning a race engine or maybe even a car with a little bit of mods, but not these bikes. :nono:
If that were the plug out of a bike, it would be popping and very soft on the overall power or HP.
Bikes like torque, that means they like fuel. Just not too much.
Your plugs should look Drk. Brown to Med. Brown at best for the best results.
But for the differences in the continuously changing weather conditions of street riding, the plugs should be somewhere between Drk. Brown to Lt. Blk. with no soot, for the best set up.
Ask Little Boo what happened to his engine when his plugs were that lean, or that color?
His pistons went south to Guatemala!
:lol::lol::lol::lol:
just my :zz2cents: again, though.
TheDeadOne
Banned
Ok, I didn't watch it that far. The plugs just scared the hell outta me for someone with a stock street bike.
:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:
Keep the in the same heat range if stock. I'm sure that S&S gave the recommendation on the plugs to BDM, and there is way to much experience there to argue with.:2thumbs:
Where's BadBrad? "Right John"?......that's John Sachs to those that don't know. :2thumbs:
Always included in my postings according to BadBrad!
:lol::lol::lol::lol:
It's all Good! :2thumbs:
:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:
Keep the in the same heat range if stock. I'm sure that S&S gave the recommendation on the plugs to BDM, and there is way to much experience there to argue with.:2thumbs:
Where's BadBrad? "Right John"?......that's John Sachs to those that don't know. :2thumbs:
Always included in my postings according to BadBrad!
:lol::lol::lol::lol:
It's all Good! :2thumbs:
TheDeadOne
Banned
Just like (Edit: Sorry, Not Little Boo :nonoAsk Little Boo what happened to his engine when his plugs were that lean, or that color?
His pistons went south to Guatemala!
:lol::lol::lol::lol:
"Dakotabos", I let mine get a little too lean. See me and my bike pictured in my avatar?
It was a really nice K-9 before running it too lean.
:roll::roll::roll::roll::roll:
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Gabriel
Active Member
Many years ago I tested spark plugs, 125 a month for 4 years.
I would pull them and put them in a pressure tester, hit them with 50K volts and determine at what pressure they would break down.
Most plugs when new did good but after 10k it was a different story.
A little known plug named "Buru" was the best and then it was "Champion" and all the rest fell somewhere below this.
An interesting find was that "fine wire" plugs such as Platinum and and later iridium were much more susceptible to fuel fouling than the standard plugs we are most familiar with.
Those fine wire plugs contribution was extended life with less electrode erosion.
The best plugs for air cooled engines turned out to be the ones with multi-ground arms.
Needless that is what I run in my air cooled stuff including the Dog.
I would pull them and put them in a pressure tester, hit them with 50K volts and determine at what pressure they would break down.
Most plugs when new did good but after 10k it was a different story.
A little known plug named "Buru" was the best and then it was "Champion" and all the rest fell somewhere below this.
An interesting find was that "fine wire" plugs such as Platinum and and later iridium were much more susceptible to fuel fouling than the standard plugs we are most familiar with.
Those fine wire plugs contribution was extended life with less electrode erosion.
The best plugs for air cooled engines turned out to be the ones with multi-ground arms.
Needless that is what I run in my air cooled stuff including the Dog.
TheDeadOne
Banned
I never had any success with Champion plugs unless they were special and given to me to use for my racing purposes. But the rep that gave them to me, said that he was told by the engineer that they were only good for one round, after that use them for warm up plugs or just throw them away.
But I've had a lot of good success with NGK plugs. And I've really reduced a lot of fouling issues by using the NGK Iridium plugs. From what I hear, many here have also made the change as well for the better.
I know that BDMs Owners Manual says inspect or replace the plugs every 2500 miles. Well that seemed to be a bit of a short life for a plug to me. So I went with the Iridums, and they're all still going strong with no fouling issues ever since. :2thumbs:
It's all about what works for you and makes you happy, right? :2thumbs:
I'm Happy!....See :lol::lol::lol:
dead
But I've had a lot of good success with NGK plugs. And I've really reduced a lot of fouling issues by using the NGK Iridium plugs. From what I hear, many here have also made the change as well for the better.
I know that BDMs Owners Manual says inspect or replace the plugs every 2500 miles. Well that seemed to be a bit of a short life for a plug to me. So I went with the Iridums, and they're all still going strong with no fouling issues ever since. :2thumbs:
It's all about what works for you and makes you happy, right? :2thumbs:
I'm Happy!....See
:lol::lol::lol:dead