I pulled out of my driveway, and less than 1/2 mile down the road, the bike sputtered a couple of times before dying completely. I coast to a nearby side road, and try to recrank. The engine spins, but I hear no fire. After getting my next door neighbor to tow me back home with his Kawasaki Mule, I start to diagnose. I have spark to the plugs, I have fuel pressure to the injectors, and according to the gauges on the VFI software, the computer thinks it is firing the injectors and has no diagnostic codes. The funny thing is that I am not getting ANY raw fuel smell from the exhaust while cranking, and no backfires through the exhaust or intake. This tells me that the injectors are not pulsing like the computer is commanding. At this point in my diagnostic flowchart, the battery is now a little low. Time to put on the battery charger, mix a few drinks, and let this sit until tomorrow. Will update when more sober and less pissed off.
2009 Wolf left me stranded tonight
- Thread starter gametech
- Start date
SKOGDOG
One of the old ones.
It sounds like you have a pretty good grasp of what needs to happen to go vroom. I don't have a Wolf, but my EFI Bulldog Bagger is similar, so I'll watch your posts with interest to see what you find out.
There is a Schrader valve on the inside of tank that lets you check the psi of the fuel pump. I'm sure yours has one too.
Blacktopper and I rebuilt my fuel pump (funny noise) and when reassembling it, didn't get a little hose on correctly, so the fuel pump leaked and couldn't make the pressure needed (60 psi I think) to start the bike...it did exactly what you described.
Like all projects, it was much easier the second time, and the bike has run like a charm ever since. One suggestion I have is not to put the new fuel pump in a bucket of gas and fire it up....60 psi squirts farther than you'd think. Haha
You can get a fuel pump rebuild kit from Chris at Big Dog in Wichita ($125 or so). See if he can get you a replacement filter while he's at it. If not, try this:
1 WLB 125 192 FILTER-INTANK 13.99 (Walbro)
Bought them from http://www.baileysonline.com/
The fuel pressure at the Schrader valve will tell you what you need to know. The hardest part was getting the tank off....draining it, and then fighting the rubber spacers. Taking care not to ruin the paint....
Good luck, and please update...
There is a Schrader valve on the inside of tank that lets you check the psi of the fuel pump. I'm sure yours has one too.
Blacktopper and I rebuilt my fuel pump (funny noise) and when reassembling it, didn't get a little hose on correctly, so the fuel pump leaked and couldn't make the pressure needed (60 psi I think) to start the bike...it did exactly what you described.
Like all projects, it was much easier the second time, and the bike has run like a charm ever since. One suggestion I have is not to put the new fuel pump in a bucket of gas and fire it up....60 psi squirts farther than you'd think. Haha
You can get a fuel pump rebuild kit from Chris at Big Dog in Wichita ($125 or so). See if he can get you a replacement filter while he's at it. If not, try this:
1 WLB 125 192 FILTER-INTANK 13.99 (Walbro)
Bought them from http://www.baileysonline.com/
The fuel pressure at the Schrader valve will tell you what you need to know. The hardest part was getting the tank off....draining it, and then fighting the rubber spacers. Taking care not to ruin the paint....
Good luck, and please update...
Last edited:
cdogg556
Guru
This makes me glad I have a carburated bike!
SKOGDOG
One of the old ones.
Good one, Lenny!
I forgot about the belt. They had problems with heat causing the belt failure on that tri-cam engine so they simply added spacers (washers) to the belt cover, which allowed some air circulation, and solved that one. Easy to check and to fix.
And we have the answer. After verifying the injectors were firing, I pulled the cover off to find a shredded belt. It pisses me off that this happened only about 2000 miles after I put in the easy start cams.
That made a damn mess...
When you put in the easy start cams did you use the washers, which was S&S fix?
Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
Nope, I never even heard about the premature belt failures until after I did the cam swap. Now I am reading about some cam plate fix, some dremel mod fix, and some washer fix, but no results as to whether any of those actually fixed the problem. I would love to be able to implement a REAL fix for this problem before I put it back together. Now to make things even more interesting, replacement belts are no longer listed on the S&S website. I found a couple of other places to order one, but I would like to talk to S&S about the problem first.
Give them a call they seem to have a good customer support.
I don't think they are making those engines anymore so may have taken the belts off their site? I bet they have them if you call though
Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
SKOGDOG
One of the old ones.
I remember reading something about it, and the only fix I saw was washers under the belt housing that allows circulation to dissipate the heat. My understanding was that took care of it. And it is a tough belt--a little water or dust wouldn't hurt anything under there.
Please do let us know what S&S has to say about it. Hate to hear you think the engine is discontinued...I thought the tri-cam was a great design.
Please do let us know what S&S has to say about it. Hate to hear you think the engine is discontinued...I thought the tri-cam was a great design.
Oh it's definitely discontinued you can't even order a new engine.
Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
It appears that vitaltwins in the U.S. and zodiak in the Netherlands are the only people who stock them. The Gates website doesn't even acknowledge their existence through any part numbers on the belt, a make and model search, or the S&S part number. I now have one ordered, but I am still concerned about a long term fix for this issue, especially since the engines are discontinued. On the bright side, at least I don't have one in a POS 3 wheeled Morgan with even more issues than Big Dogs have.
I received an email from S&S technical support. Their official position is "You can use .100" washers to space out the cover. That will control the heat and fix the issue.". I suppose that makes one less gasket to worry about sealing on the motor. Does anyone actually have long term results from the spacer mod?
Gametech- we stock belts & engines for X-wedge. Give me a call or email if you still need parts. bigdogpartskingpin@yahoo.com or 620-257-2009 Donna
Thanks, but I already ordered the belt. I also sourced some titanium washers to use as spacers. I suppose in a few thousand miles I will know if it worked.
