2008 mastiff will not crank

MASTIFFNORM

Member
hello all. my name is norman and i am a proud owner of a 2008 mastiff w/efi that i have owned for 2 years now. ride locally which is why it only has 3350 miles on it. and here is my problem: rode it to lunch the other day and washed it. rode it back to work just fine. went to leave 3 hours later and it acted like the battery went bad. on first key, speedo cycled like it should. primed when run button was pushed. hit start button and it just clicked and speedo had the flashing lights and odometer flashed in and out. just as if the battery had dumped. took it out and put it on the tender all night. put it back in and it all acted the same as the night before. load tested the thing and volts were good, but cca were only at 92. bought a new one charged overnight. installed it and turned the key on. speedo self check was normal. push run button and can hear it prime. push start button and nothing. no clicks no nothing. here are the checks i have done: pull side cover and check leds on ehc. amber pwr led is solid, green controller is flashing. ign led does nothing when run is pushed. have 9 volts at green wire at starter with key on. but does not change when run or start is pushed. pull b connector off ehc and check ohms at b6 and b28. circuit is open at first and closes 1.2 ohms when start is pushed. check rh pcb and ohm results are the same on both run and start button. open at first then closes when buttons are pushed. even went as far as jumping the run and start pins at connector for the pcb. primes when black and red are jumped but nothing when black and green are jumped. re-did batt connections as a double check. still nothing. not sure how to check circuit that pwrs the ignition led on ehc. is there any other checks i can do to confirm ehc is bad before i ship it off to have checked?
 

Nukeranger

Nukeranger
Lifetime Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Seems like it’s your battery. What is the new battery’s Cranking Amps? 9 volts at the starter seems weird too. Are you sure you hooked everything back up right?
 

MASTIFFNORM

Member
270 CCA. According to BDM there should at least 8 volts to green wire going to the starter then 12 volts with the start button pushed. I feel I have ruled out the button since it opens and closes via ohm checks. I have double checked the battery connections as well.
 

francoblay1

The Spaniard
you need a minimum of 310 CCA.............

You washed, hu? did you make sure no water went into the handle-bar switches???
 

MASTIFFNORM

Member
I will not disagree with having more CCA is better, but it had the factory battery in it when I bought it and im pretty sure it was 270. But that being said, CCA will not cause it not to supply the ignition portion of the controller. In all of the connections I have checked and cleaned, none of them were wet
 

Jersey Big Mike

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Also when you replaced the battery - what brand/model did you use. When Franco mentioned 310CCA that's from ALL our experience, not pulling a number from the air.
You could also try jumping the starter solenoid by shorting 12v to the green wire directly adn see what happens (have had to do that on mu BMC a few times on the road to get it started).
 

MASTIFFNORM

Member
Also when you replaced the battery - what brand/model did you use. When Franco mentioned 310CCA that's from ALL our experience, not pulling a number from the air.
You could also try jumping the starter solenoid by shorting 12v to the green wire directly adn see what happens (have had to do that on mu BMC a few times on the road to get it started).
The battery is from napa and a 20l-bs. And I know the number was not from the air. All I was meaning was it is a factory spec. I have jumped the starter directly to the battery and it turns over fine. But will not fire. I need to check the CR a bit closer but I can't say I hear anything over the fuel system priming.
 

Nukeranger

Nukeranger
Lifetime Supporting Member
Supporting Member
If nothing is happening, and you don’t hear any relays, etc picking up, do you have a blown fuse or breaker that opened. With low voltage, the amps would have been higher so a breaker opened or fuse blew.
 

Jersey Big Mike

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
ok, try this - disconnect all the wires from the positive connector on the battery and let it sit overnight, reconnect and try again. Let the EHC reset just in case.
 

MASTIFFNORM

Member
If nothing is happening, and you don’t hear any relays, etc picking up, do you have a blown fuse or breaker that opened. With low voltage, the amps would have been higher so a breaker opened or fuse blew.
I only find 2 fuses and 2 circuit breakers and confirmed they are good with both test light and multimeter. I downloaded a 2007 manual (couldn't find one for 2008) and it talked about a reset button on a CB. I can't find it so I'm assuming they stopped using it in 2008.
 

Jersey Big Mike

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
I know u checked it but press the run and start buttons really hard and see if it will turn over
well he hears the fuel pump prime when it hits run so we know that button is good.
He's tested the switch with a DVM (ohmmeter) and it passed.
It's starting to truly sound like an ehc problem -- start button creates signal at ehc connector -- not passed onto starter.
 

Reddickracing

Well-Known Member
My starter button tested good too and would activate the CR but wouldn’t turn the motor over until I shimmed it. Don’t make since but that fixed it year and half now
 

Brian Zarle

Member
I had the same identical problem ran a jump wire from the ignition to the fuse underneath the seat. And Its ran great every since...
 
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