2007 EFI Bulldog Dyno Results

[Nomad2day]

Was out cruising around today in beautiful 86 degree weather drinking a few beers and decided to go by the Victory shop in Hopkinsville KY which has a dyno and see if the Bulldog would fit on it. Well they said it would so I said lets see what she will do. Gave up the complimentary $50 bill and said lets burn some fuel. Bike has a Red Shift 656V2 cam, ported heads and the pistons are .22 thousands in the hole. I am thinking the compression is about 10.2... Bike has V&H Big Radius pipes on it with the O2 stuff.
113 hp and 139 tq. Dang, it was making 130 ft lbs at 1500 rpms up...

 

[Nomad2day]

Here is a few shot in the shop on the dyno. Sorry, No hot chicks standing around here. Kinda bummed me out.
If you notice there is still plenty of tread on the back tire today. Most likely will be short lived down the road here.

 

[KnotSo]

Your scoot looks good, and nice numbers.

How does it fell seat of the pants compared to stock?

 

[Raywood]

Neil, looks good and my favorite color for a bike!

Hey, does the air/fuel bother you any? Looks a little lean at lower rpm.

Good numbers too.

 

[narow37]

nice numbers Neil, nice pics

 

[Nomad2day]

Neil, looks good and my favorite color for a bike!

Hey, does the air/fuel bother you any? Looks a little lean at lower rpm.

Good numbers too.

Yea Ray it does but I will take care of it. There is another issue as well I need to look at. The entire AFR ran about 13.8 on the graph. I will start another thread on this, but I had a Thundermax wideband system with autotune installed last week and have not made a good base map yet. I simply told the system to write a 13-1 AFR. This is what I was looking to see if it did this. Was about .8 higher than what it was being told to do. I will turn on the autotune tonight.....

The bike was just idling in gear with no one on it throughout the pulls. He simply reached over and twisted the throttle. Perhaps it was bucking some down low with the drum spinning the tire. Air comes back into the rear cylinder pipe pretty bad on the big radius pipes. I can watch the AFR jump over a full point by putting my hand close to the pipe exit. I will be going to a R&B Racing 2-1 pipe soon to rectify this.
Neil

 

[Chopper Dave]

scoot looks good Neil!:up: nice numbers also!! gotta love that torque

 

[Fibersnake]

Looks good, just little confused of why the intersecting numbers for the Torque/HP are off by almost 1000 RPM. Then again it is not the first time that happened. I guess their software can not sync the graphs together to reflect RPM for both on same chart. Also it appears to show on the sheet DIN HP and CF for DIN verse SAE. If it was ran using DIN as the standards, the SAE numbers that we are more commonly used to in the United States would be a little lower.

Regardless, assuming it is close to right, nice numbers. Enjoy the ride

 

[Fibersnake]

Looking closely at the RPM graph and use it with the two separte charts it does appear that the numbers are the same at the magic 5252 number. JUst a matter of how they tried to compress the graph in take it. However the HP shows max at 5176 which seem to be unusal since normally the HP would still be going up at least past the 5252 RPM since it is a direct relation to RPM multiple by torque. That said it is not a solid fact for the torque drop off would have any effect.

Still is the DIN the factor they used as it appears?

Does look like a nice dyno set up and something different than the typical Dynojet. By chance was it a stricly an inertia type or was there a brake of sometype involved also. If it was an inertia type, more than likely it was a quick run from idle to Full Throttle verse steps and a prolonged run.

 

[Nomad2day]

Fibersnake,
I did not ask them any specifics of the dyno just if my bike would fit on it. Told them I just wanted a curiosity pull to set a base line for the tuning changes about to come and the addition of the 2-1 pipe. Tommy runs the dyno, which is the larger fellow in the pics and is well know for his abilities in tuning across all the bike manufacturers and with different software protocols. Tommy's phone number is on the dyno sheet and would be glad to answer any questions you have. Real good people down there..:2thumbs:

I did a search on on the dyno platform in the pics. When they went to load the bike, everyone in the shop jumped in and helped get it up the ramp. Seems like everyone enjoyed what they do there....

Dynostar . com Dynamometers


I am going to go out on a limb and say I think it is a 4T model due to the racks on the deck for the racing 4 wheelers which they also sell at this Victory performance shop. I know they were able to move the front tire chock/deck out by the control panel to get the back tire on the drum where he wanted it. They then put the jack under it to support it. He basically just reached over and twisted the throttle wide open a couple of times to make his pull. The bike was strapped down running on its own without anyone on it. I will ask him more about it when I return there in the future after the bike learns on its own some.

The Dynostar Model 4T is a unique roller chassis dynamometer suitable for testing no less than three different types of vehicle: carts, ATV’s and motorbikes.

The Dynostar Model 4T is fitted with a roller with a high mass inertia. This makes the dynamometer suitable for dynamic power up to 438 kW.

The powerful air-cooled retarder can absorb power up to 355 kW (with cold eddy current brake). To save space, the eddy current brake of the Dynostar Model 4T is integrated in the roller. To cool the eddy current brake, Dynostar has applied the principle of forced cooling. A centrifugal fan presses air through the heart of the roller, so that the retarder is force-cooled.

On the Dynostar Model 4T, the roller-brake combination is again mounted on one shaft, which results in a dynamometer which is totally free from vibrations, as expected from other Dynostar dynamometers.

Also all Dynostar Model 4T dynamometers are fitted with electrically adjustable wheel clamps. The wheel clamps are also designed extra wide, so wide quad tyres can be clamped firmly without problems.

 

[Fibersnake]

Neil,

Thanks for the information and it looks like a very good set up. I particular like the cooling set up that they used. Will have to look up the Dynostar.

On the numbers, just a little different on how they graph that what is seen many time, but that appears to me related to being able to keep the numbers in the same graph without the expansion of using a common scale that would coorelate for both torque and HP. On the DIN standards, nothing wrong with that, just not seen too often on this side of the pound.

If they did use DIN standards, all things equals, SAE numbers would be a little lower compared to DIN, but both are so close that it is pretty much moot. If anything less than 5% difference without a corection factor to reflect. They may have punched those numbers in with a proper correction factor for conversion to show the DIN as SAE equvillent, can not tell from the picture.

Overall good looking run, especially for a quick run, and it appears that they have a good set up there and can get good runs that help and give a baseline to fine tune.

Nice bike and I am sure it keeping you happy in the butt dyno runs!!!

Safe riding!

 

[Vegas]

That is some killer power. Even on a carbed bike you will see a lean condition momentarily at wide open throttle. No wonder that tire doesn't last long.

 

[alhall88]

Neil good to hear that the build is complete and you seem to be getting some education on the EFI system. I'll be willing to bet once you get all schooled up the EFI mapping you squeeze a few more ponys out of it. Did you retain the original valve size? Did you mill any stock of the heads? Whats the duration of that cam? Did you measure the CCP and what was the results? Sorry but you need more info for my nosey ass.

 

[Nomad2day]

Neil good to hear that the build is complete and you seem to be getting some education on the EFI system. I'll be willing to bet once you get all schooled up the EFI mapping you squeeze a few more ponys out of it. Did you retain the original valve size? Did you mill any stock of the heads? Whats the duration of that cam? Did you measure the CCP and what was the results? Sorry but you need more info for my nosey ass.

There is more to be had for sure....

Yes, I retained the original stock valve sizes....I only had the heads ported and polished. R&B Cycles in Nashville did all the headwork and installed the springs.
No, I did not mill anything off the heads. I had .25 thousands cut off the cylinders. I told them to go to a zero deck but it did not happen that way. Upon cam installation the rear intake push rod kept bending even though it had clearance while rotating the tire to check clearance. When it fired up under compression, it would bend the pushrod. Turns out the spring retaining ring was bottoming out on the valve guide and taking out the push rod. I had to pull the heads back off and send them to another shop to measure everything and cut the proper relief needed for the cam. In this confusion, the tech got scared and did not mill off what I asked for on the jugs. So I am running a stock head gasket .42 thou I believe and the piston was .22 in the hole.

RED SHIFT CAM SPECS CHART
EVOLUTION BIG TWIN- '84 and Up
CAM MODEL 656V2

(TIMING @ .053) (DURATION) ( VALVE LIFT) (TDC LIFT @ VALVE )
INT (28/102/52) (260) (.656) (.233)
EX (52/103/26) (258) (.656) (.219)



I have not measured the CCP as of yet. Perhaps I will do that this afternoon.

The EFI bikes have single beehive springs and stock stamped rockers. I installed a set of .675 lift springs $119.95 ( DS199550 DS-199550 675" SPRING SET EVO BT) and a set of S&S Roller Rockers 904065 at $449.95.
The Redshift cam 656V2 413-442 ran $324.95.

I kept the stock 52 mm throttle body on the bike even though I did have a one piece 60mm throttle body installed. The problem was the backing plate on this throttle-body was not recessed like the S&S backing plate causing the filter to stick out a few inches more. Add the few inches to the new longer 60mm throttle body and you were unable to get your foot to the foot peg due to everything plowing into you knee. I may revisit this in the future.

Neil

 

[alhall88]

With that duration sounds like the compression your running will work fine. The biggest reason I like to check the CCP is to get a baseline in case you start having issues down the road. But I have also been told that after 500 miles or so to double check the CCP again especially after a hone and fresh rings. After break in there will be a slight increase in the CCP.

 

[Nomad2day]

With that duration sounds like the compression your running will work fine. The biggest reason I like to check the CCP is to get a baseline in case you start having issues down the road. But I have also been told that after 500 miles or so to double check the CCP again especially after a hone and fresh rings. After break in there will be a slight increase in the CCP.

It has been a couple thousand miles now from the time I did the build. I did have it honed out and did put in new rings when I put in the cam and cut the jugs so I need to check it anyway......
Went to check it and found my compression tester and insert for the plug hole but not the quick disconnect hose.....

I did have a wide band fuel injection system installed as well. This run was the base line run. I will order a 2-1 R&B Racing pipe and a new belt today...
Neil