2004 pitbull rip kit install problems

[Silverback432]

Then your issue is most likely the Cam Sensor.
On the 04 and older OEM Thunderheart Ignition modules if you do not get the Red flickering LED while turning the motor over then their is no signal from the Cam sensor getting to the Ignition Module. It could be in the harness if you have not checked for continuity between the cam sensor and the Ignition Module. If you have continuity between the Cam Sensor and the ignition module then the cam sensor is likely bad.

Right now I’m not getting motor to crank over at all but I have power to spots I thought should make it at least crank over I get red light lit for few seconds on ignition module when I turn the key to on position but goes away
when I hit off button on right control the yellow light flashes on led under speedometer but When I hit run and start nothing happens
I may double check cam sensor again but before replacing computer bike would still crank over right away would just turn on and shut off after few minutes I figured replacing with newer model then original ehc would be better so I didn’t think cam sensor would be bad is it possible for it to burn out when swapping to rip kit ?

 

[pauldeepsea]

Right now I’m not getting motor to crank over at all but I have power to spots I thought should make it at least crank over I get red light lit for few seconds on ignition module when I turn the key to on position but goes away
when I hit off button on right control the yellow light flashes on led under speedometer but When I hit run and start nothing happens
I may double check cam sensor again but before replacing computer bike would still crank over right away would just turn on and shut off after few minutes I figured replacing with newer model then original ehc would be better so I didn’t think cam sensor would be bad is it possible for it to burn out when swapping to rip kit ?

It shouldn’t burnout when replacing it with the rip unless it was wired inproperly not grounded but that shouldn’t be an issue because they come pre wired with a jst connector. From what I am reading and what you are describing it really sounds like a bad sensor. Why not replace it they are not that expensive and they are easy to replace

 

[Th3InfamousI]

Right now I’m not getting motor to crank over at all but I have power to spots I thought should make it at least crank over I get red light lit for few seconds on ignition module when I turn the key to on position but goes away
when I hit off button on right control the yellow light flashes on led under speedometer but When I hit run and start nothing happens
I may double check cam sensor again but before replacing computer bike would still crank over right away would just turn on and shut off after few minutes I figured replacing with newer model then original ehc would be better so I didn’t think cam sensor would be bad is it possible for it to burn out when swapping to rip kit ?

It sounds like its not even cranking? That doesn't have to do with the ignition module at all.

If it's not cranking, which is how I took it...go look at my earlier post.

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

 

[Silverback432]

It sounds like its not even cranking? That doesn't have to do with the ignition module at all.

If it's not cranking, which is how I took it...go look at my earlier post.

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

Yes it’s not cranking thought I replied sorry I do have green wire connected and tested it have voltage to it and power and ground are connected correctly is why. I’m stuck at this point thinking may be bad wired harness or computer it’s self I ran power directly to started by passing everything to make sure starter is good and it cranks so I know it’s good and I have power at prongs to right control board and down so nothing else pops in my mind

 

[Silverback432]

It sounds like its not even cranking? That doesn't have to do with the ignition module at all.

If it's not cranking, which is how I took it...go look at my earlier post.

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

Has green male end connector to top of starter and quick connect that goes under the starter is there another ground I’m possibly missing ?i don’t have any loose connections anywhere and went where labeled wire said so on all them to best of my knowledge

 

[KaptinAmerika]

Right now I’m not getting motor to crank over at all but I have power to spots I thought should make it at least crank over I get red light lit for few seconds on ignition module when I turn the key to on position but goes away
when I hit off button on right control the yellow light flashes on led under speedometer but When I hit run and start nothing happens
I may double check cam sensor again but before replacing computer bike would still crank over right away would just turn on and shut off after few minutes I figured replacing with newer model then original ehc would be better so I didn’t think cam sensor would be bad is it possible for it to burn out when swapping to rip kit ?

My apologies, I thought you had it turning over but no spark.

First off you need to know that the RIP does not operate the same way the OEM did.
The starter circuit is independent of the Run button with the RIP.
The RIP will not give you any indication as to whether the Ignition Module is powered up or not.
So once you have the bike running never use the run button again. Just turn the bike off with the key.

"when I hit off button on right control the yellow light flashes on led under speedometer"
Something here sounds off to me. The only yellow lights on the dash are the blinkers. Hitting the off button should not activate a blinker. Are you sure you don't have the hand control plugs backwards under the tank area?


"bike would still crank over right away would just turn on and shut off after few minutes"
I suspect it might still do the above even if you get the RIP to work.
It could have been a cam sensor that was on it's way out and once it heated up it would die.
It could also be a venting issue in the fuel tank. Could be a clogged cross over tube, clogged petcock screen.

 

[Silverback432]

My apologies, I thought you had it turning over but no spark.

First off you need to know that the RIP does not operate the same way the OEM did.
The starter circuit is independent of the Run button with the RIP.
The RIP will not give you any indication as to whether the Ignition Module is powered up or not.
So once you have the bike running never use the run button again. Just turn the bike off with the key.

"when I hit off button on right control the yellow light flashes on led under speedometer"
Something here sounds off to me. The only yellow lights on the dash are the blinkers. Hitting the off button should not activate a blinker. Are you sure you don't have the hand control plugs backwards under the tank area?


"bike would still crank over right away would just turn on and shut off after few minutes"
I suspect it might still do the above even if you get the RIP to work.
It could have been a cam sensor that was on it's way out and once it heated up it would die.
It could also be a venting issue in the fuel tank. Could be a clogged cross over tube, clogged petcock screen.

Oh okay wasn’t aware of that and yes it’s far left yellow light that goes off when I hit the off button I did crimp a wire that came loose was purple wire coming off the bike (female end of connector)and brown from the rip kit for the right hand control which was in jst connection that came loose and big dog tech said it was fine to crimp with male end prong wire and I get power up to the control board well not sure how much im suppose to but there is power there and didn’t finish correct when I said it would run few minutes and then shut off (sorry bout that ).that went on for 2 days I’d get down block it would shut off on me started reading on this website people with similar problem and went to mess with it next day bike would crank every time I hit start but wouldn’t kick on motor anymore tried multiple times previous owner had already zip tied the ehc and connecter as if it was probably wiggling off with vibration but he didn’t mention that when I bought it so figured was bad ehc and read this was good replacement but hasn’t been for me so far but I’m guessing I can replace cam sensor and hook up the old unit see if I get good result out of that ?

 

[awg]

Hmmnnn I was going by what my Mastiff was doing....as you know. I checked my chopper also. When I turn on my key no led light. When I press run the module powers up. I assumed they all worked this way. When I was messing with the Mastiff I didn't get that module to light up even while it was cranking. So I don't know. It did power up once. (As you know). But that was it until I replaced the RIP. (As you know). So that's my story.

 

[KaptinAmerika]

Oh okay wasn’t aware of that and yes it’s far left yellow light that goes off when I hit the off button I did crimp a wire that came loose was purple wire coming off the bike (female end of connector)and brown from the rip kit for the right hand control which was in jst connection that came loose and big dog tech said it was fine to crimp with male end prong wire and I get power up to the control board well not sure how much im suppose to but there is power there and didn’t finish correct when I said it would run few minutes and then shut off (sorry bout that ).that went on for 2 days I’d get down block it would shut off on me started reading on this website people with similar problem and went to mess with it next day bike would crank every time I hit start but wouldn’t kick on motor anymore tried multiple times previous owner had already zip tied the ehc and connecter as if it was probably wiggling off with vibration but he didn’t mention that when I bought it so figured was bad ehc and read this was good replacement but hasn’t been for me so far but I’m guessing I can replace cam sensor and hook up the old unit see if I get good result out of that ?

Violet, Purple, wires for the hand controls and LED Turn and brake lights, on OEM harnesses, are for left hand Functions.
Not sure what the brown wire is for with the RIP but OEM Brown is right hand functions and LED lights.
So the fact that the left dash turn signal turns on when you hit the "Off" button on the right hand controls tells me your hand control connectors, under the tank most likely, are backwards. Swap them and try again.

 

[awg]

Did you get a wiring diagram with it? I take it you still have the stock wiring harness running upstream?

 

[KaptinAmerika]

Did you get a wiring diagram with it? I take it you still have the stock wiring harness running upstream?

That is one of the many downsides of the RIP kit.
No install instructions and no wiring diagram.

 

[Silverback432]

Violet, Purple, wires for the hand controls and LED Turn and brake lights, on OEM harnesses, are for left hand Functions.
Not sure what the brown wire is for with the RIP but OEM Brown is right hand functions and LED lights.
So the fact that the left dash turn signal turns on when you hit the "Off" button on the right hand controls tells me your hand control connectors, under the tank most likely, are backwards. Swap them and try again.

crap Thanks a lot I feel pretty dumb now have To get home and swap them see what happens thanks a lot man hopefully solves my problem !

 

[Silverback432]

Did you get a wiring diagram with it? I take it you still have the stock wiring harness running upstream?

No wiring diagram for the rip kit or schematics I have the original I downloaded week after fighting with it and guess I just didn’t pay 100% attention and Kaptain Amerika caught my mistake today I had tech big dog send me a pin out for it but I believe I have them swapped wrong like he is saying will update later see what happens

 

[awg]

I guess they feel its so easy to install that you don't need directions? Hopefully that's all it is.

 

[KaptinAmerika]

crap Thanks a lot I feel pretty dumb now have To get home and swap them see what happens thanks a lot man hopefully solves my problem !

Nothing to feel dumb about, shit happens.

 

[Silverback432]

Just swapped them and it’s cranking now just back to square one again it’s cranking but not turning on I ran some fuel down line (I still have tanks off) and just cranks is it possible computer wasn’t bad ? Or I have more then one problem

 

[Silverback432]

Nothing to feel dumb about, shit happens.

Just swapped them and it’s cranking now just back to square one again it’s cranking but not turning on I ran some fuel down line (I still have tanks off) and just cranks is it possible computer wasn’t bad ? Or I have more then one problem

 

[KaptinAmerika]

Just swapped them and it’s cranking now just back to square one again it’s cranking but not turning on I ran some fuel down line (I still have tanks off) and just cranks is it possible computer wasn’t bad ? Or I have more then one problem

So let's check the ignition module again.
When your turning the motor over do you get the flickering Red LED?

 

[Silverback432]

So let's check the ignition module again.
When your turning the motor over do you get the flickering Red LED?

No only when I turn key to on position it comes on for few seconds and goes away
when I hit start button it does not come back on

 

[roadie1389]

No only when I turn key to on position it comes on for few seconds and goes away
when I hit start button it does not come back on

That would point to a bad cam sensor OR a bad connection for the sensor. Check the wires/JST connectors for a loose wire.