08 Mastiff Clutch Nut came lose @3k miles

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ehaggett

New Member
At 2800 miles my clutch appeared to need a minor adjustment. I adjusted the clutch and rode for the day. Next morning I noticed clutch out of adjustment. I called the dealer who sold me the bike and spoke to the mechanic. He suggested I check the throw out bearing. I pulled the out primary cover, pulled the clutch apart and throw out bearing and push rod looked fine. I put a socket on the clutch nut and it was loose. I pulled the nut off completely. There was signs of red loctite on the nut. I called the dealer back and spoke to the mechanic. He informed me to clean the threads and nut completely, torque the nut to 50ft lbs before loctiting, pull the nut off, add loctite and torque to 100 ft lbs. Putting the bike in 6th gear made this very easy. Dealer provided excellent service. A 1.5 hr fix was easier than a 8hr day taking the bike in(3hr trip each way). Has anyone heard of a fix to prevent the nut backing off in the future, or is this a maintenance issue? Looks like a design flaw to me.
Ed
 
IrishGuy

IrishGuy

Active Member
This is a common problem and has happened to a few people on here. The service manuals say torque to 80 ft lbs. BDM now recommends 100 ft lbs. /w loctite of course. :2thumbs:
 
Nomad2day

Nomad2day

Longhair Redneck Geek
I am not sure if they have been using red loctite or a mixture of Humming bird feeder food.
Someone must of set a jug of red humming bird food down on the bench and they refilled all the loctite bottles with it.
This same problem bit me as well and did some cosmetic damage as BDM would say to the primary cover. Also found my threads on the clutch adjuster were sheered in half on the cable when this happened which I had to replace due to it being a wear item...Not worn but broke, only had a few thousand miles on it.
Neil
 
B

Big Ron

Well-Known Member
IrishGuy said:
This is a common problem and has happened to a few people on here. The service manuals say torque to 80 ft lbs. BDM now recommends 100 ft lbs. /w loctite of course. :2thumbs:
Click to expand...
Good morning all:hi:
Has anyone seen a service bulletin on this? If so what is the number please. Thank you in advance:up:
 
RRRUFF

RRRUFF

Well-Known Member
Ok, finally got around to pulling my primary cover and checked the clutch and sprocket nuts. The clutch was not loose and showed no sign of any loctite. The drive sprocket showed evidence of loctite. Applied loctite to both nuts and re-torqued both, drive sprocket 160 ft.lb. and clutch nut to 100 ft.lbs. The four pivot plate bolts show signs of loctite. When I re-torqued them 200 in.lbs. they shoulder/bottomed out. This was also true on my buddies 06 K9 that we check this weekend. We also noticed his drive belt was excessively loose and found the tensioning screw broke on the drive side.
 
V

V

Guru
Welcome:cheers:
Did the dealer tell you to torque to 50 ft lbs or 150 ft lbs prior to re install with loktite at 100 ft lbs. A dealer told me 150 ft lbs intial due to the fact the shaft may have walked slightly:confused:

I asked about a bulletin but havent heard of one yet :hi:

V

ehaggett said:
At 2800 miles my clutch appeared to need a minor adjustment. I adjusted the clutch and rode for the day. Next morning I noticed clutch out of adjustment. I called the dealer who sold me the bike and spoke to the mechanic. He suggested I check the throw out bearing. I pulled the out primary cover, pulled the clutch apart and throw out bearing and push rod looked fine. I put a socket on the clutch nut and it was loose. I pulled the nut off completely. There was signs of red loctite on the nut. I called the dealer back and spoke to the mechanic. He informed me to clean the threads and nut completely, torque the nut to 50ft lbs before loctiting, pull the nut off, add loctite and torque to 100 ft lbs. Putting the bike in 6th gear made this very easy. Dealer provided excellent service. A 1.5 hr fix was easier than a 8hr day taking the bike in(3hr trip each way). Has anyone heard of a fix to prevent the nut backing off in the future, or is this a maintenance issue? Looks like a design flaw to me.
Ed
Click to expand...
 
K

K9husker

Member
I installed the new Bandit clutch, main shaft, inner clutch hub and used lock tight on the nut to 85 ft lbs. A dealer told me there should be a washer between the clutch and the clutch nut. Is this right? He also told me to torque the nut to 150 ft lbs, then loosen the nut, add lock tight and retorque to 100ft lbs. Anyone heard of this? My nut came loose again after 800 miles.
 
Raywood

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
K9husker said:
I installed the new Bandit clutch, main shaft, inner clutch hub and used lock tight on the nut to 85 ft lbs. A dealer told me there should be a washer between the clutch and the clutch nut. Is this right? He also told me to torque the nut to 150 ft lbs, then loosen the nut, add lock tight and retorque to 100ft lbs. Anyone heard of this? My nut came loose again after 800 miles.
Click to expand...

There is a washer behind the nut. I took mine to a 100. Never heard of taking to 150 then re-doing it to 100.
 
V

V

Guru
Ray the local service center here told me the same, clean and torque to 150' lbs remove, loctite and retorque to 100' lbs. Said BD mentioned that the trans shaft could have walked if if it was loose and this was to correct:confused:

I emailed BD about this but they have not responded:rant:

V


Raywood said:
There is a washer behind the nut. I took mine to a 100. Never heard of taking to 150 then re-doing it to 100.
Click to expand...
 
RRRUFF

RRRUFF

Well-Known Member
I think the crankshaft sprocket nut is 150 to 165 ftlbs. and the clutch sprocket nut is now 100 ftlbs.
 
K

K9husker

Member
I talked to the engineering department at Big Dog yesterday and here's the scoop.
When installing the clutch nut, there should be a washer, if you do not have one, add one, part #120-000027-00. Then torque the nut to 150 ft lbs, then lossen, then retorque to 120 ft lbs with red locktite. Baker says the shaft will take up to 200 ft lbs so 120 is a sure thing to keep the nut tight. I have a 2006 K9 and it did not have a washer from the factory. He also said to order a spacer to put behind the clutch assembly to stop the clutch from rubbing the inner primarry cover. part #240-000313-00. I also replaced the nut part #120-000055-00 and the inner clutch hub part #120-000054-00.
 
Mickeetwo

Mickeetwo

Guru
K9husker said:
I talked to the engineering department at Big Dog yesterday and here's the scoop.
When installing the clutch nut, there should be a washer, if you do not have one, add one, part #120-000027-00. Then torque the nut to 150 ft lbs, then lossen, then retorque to 120 ft lbs with red locktite. Baker says the shaft will take up to 200 ft lbs so 120 is a sure thing to keep the nut tight. I have a 2006 K9 and it did not have a washer from the factory. He also said to order a spacer to put behind the clutch assembly to stop the clutch from rubbing the inner primarry cover. part #240-000313-00. I also replaced the nut part #120-000055-00 and the inner clutch hub part #120-000054-00.
Click to expand...
Great job K9husker :2thumbs: .....good info since its been a common problem.
 
K

K9husker

Member
I should add that BD engineering says to use #2760 Loctite on both engine and clutch nuts. It's designed for transmission and driveline vibration and shock. the bad part is, it $35 bucks a bottle and can only be removed with heat!
 
Nomad2day

Nomad2day

Longhair Redneck Geek
K9husker said:
I should add that BD engineering says to use #2760 Loctite on both engine and clutch nuts. It's designed for transmission and driveline vibration and shock. the bad part is, it $35 bucks a bottle and can only be removed with heat!
Click to expand...
I have to disagree with you on the #2760. It can be removed with hand tools actually and it is designed for vibration and drivetrains. Cost is $15.00 for a bottle.
'Prevents loosening and leakage of threaded fasteners. 'Product 2760 is particularly fast curing thereby reducing or 'eliminating the need for primers. Particularly suitable for heavy 'duty applications such as bolts used in transmissions, 'construction equipment or railroad assemblies where 'resistance to heavy shock, vibration and stress levels is 'required.

You want to seal it and have to use heat to break it, try 262 red loctite.
Neil
 
V

V

Guru
I ordered a bottle today of the 2760. Small bottle was $10.00 and some change I got the size that you typically see on the shelf it was $32 and some change I think its 50 milliliters. Nobody in Lynchburg Va. had it in stock.:confused:
 
Nomad2day

Nomad2day

Longhair Redneck Geek
Hey Chris,
I ordered mine through Fastenal. Drop shipped to my local store.
It was 16.76, shipping and handling 1.50, state tax 1.28, city tax.46= $20.00
This was for a 10ml bottle or .34.
Locations | Fastenal
Part#0150602

V,
That was a good buy.......But I think Gasman needs the big big bottle with all the people that come to his house..
Neil
 
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