Fried something

Energy One
knothead

knothead

Second Chance Customs
cgaroutte1201 said:
My bad, I probably called it by the wrong name, the spacer inside the hub in the pic.

Goes around the axle bolt, keeps the bearings in place I guess. I think the last time I changed out the bearings, I measured the previous spacer and used a piece of gas pipe I think. Does it have to have the same inside diameter as the outside diameter of the axle? I think I know why it ruined the bearing, because I think the piece of pipe I used , the ID was bigger then the OD of the axle.
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It needs to the the size of the axle outside diameter...if its sloppy on the axle then it can cock a little bit and load one side of the bearing and ruin the bearing by not being flat...and also if it's to short or to long it will ruin the bearing....it needs to be machined true on each end to achieve flat surfaces equally on the bearing inner race...you need to measure shoulder to shoulder with the hubs on the wheel where the bearing bottoms out in each hub to get a accurate measurement
 
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cgaroutte1201

cgaroutte1201

Member
knothead said:
It needs to the the size of the axle outside diameter...if its sloppy on the axle then it can cock a little bit and load one side of the bearing and run the bearing by not being flat...and also if it's to short or to long it will ruin the bearing....it needs to be machined true on each end to achieve flat surfaces equally on the bearing inner race...you need to measure shoulder to shoulder with the hubs on the wheel where the bearing bottoms out in each hub to get a accurate measurement
Click to expand...
Understood, yeah I don't think I used the same size ID as the spacer OD and I definitely didn't true the ends up. We used a chop saw to cut it to size, and then knocked the burs off with grinder. Should have done it right the first time...
And what kind of pipe or material do you recommend I use, we used a piece of gas pipe last time.


Did you use a mic for that measurement or just a tape?
 
knothead

knothead

Second Chance Customs
cgaroutte1201 said:
Understood, yeah I don't think I used the same size ID as the spacer OD and I definitely didn't true the ends up. We used a chop saw to cut it to size, and then knocked the burs off with grinder. Should have done it right the first time...
And what kind of pipe or material do you recommend I use, we used a piece of gas pipe last time.


Did you use a mic for that measurement or just a tape?
Click to expand...
What I normally do is I put the hubs on the wheel..one side only I put the bearing in the hub and leave the other out so I can get a accurate measurement to the shoulder on the other hub...I make a sleeve and drop it in and use a small straight edge to see if the sleeve and the hub shoulder us equal in height...once I get that right I put the other bearing in.. you can get the sleeve material on the internet and machine to length
 
cgaroutte1201

cgaroutte1201

Member
knothead said:
What I normally do is I put the hubs on the wheel..one side only I put the bearing in the hub and leave the other out so I can get a accurate measurement to the shoulder on the other hub...I make a sleeve and drop it in and use a small straight edge to see if the sleeve and the hub shoulder us equal in height...once I get that right I put the other bearing in.. you can get the sleeve material on the internet and machine to length
Click to expand...
Understood, I'll give that a try, and if I got more questions, which I'm sure I will, I'll check back.
 
Snuffy

Snuffy

Active Member
Supporting Member
cgaroutte1201 said:
Understood, yeah I don't think I used the same size ID as the spacer OD and I definitely didn't true the ends up. We used a chop saw to cut it to size, and then knocked the burs off with grinder. Should have done it right the first time...
And what kind of pipe or material do you recommend I use, we used a piece of gas pipe last time.


Did you use a mic for that measurement or just a tape?
Click to expand...
Do you even hear what you’re saying? What part of let’s just cut a piece of pipe on the chop saw, stick it in there, and tighten the hell out of it. Yeah that will work. Really? Then wonder why it failed so soon? Really? Luckily it didn’t come apart and tear the hell out of everything going down the road. Good luck
 
cgaroutte1201

cgaroutte1201

Member
Snuffy said:
Do you even hear what you’re saying? What part of let’s just cut a piece of pipe on the chop saw, stick it in there, and tighten the hell out of it. Yeah that will work. Really? Then wonder why it failed so soon? Really? Luckily it didn’t come apart and tear the hell out of everything going down the road. Good luck
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Yeah, I know.

It's definitely a learning experience. We all gotta start somewhere I suppose.

I'm glad I got you guys for assurance and assistance.
 
Snuffy

Snuffy

Active Member
Supporting Member
I would suggest getting some calipers and accurately measuring the size spacer you need and having one made. There’s several people on here who are more than willing and capable of doing just that. Measure twice cut once. Also get decent calipers like Starrett or Mitutoyo. Don’t go to harbor freight whatever you do. It’s your life you’re toying with by half ass doing it with half ass tools. A good set of calipers will prove invaluable and last a lifetime. Hope it goes well for you.
 
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cgaroutte1201

cgaroutte1201

Member
Snuffy said:
I would suggest getting some calipers and accurately measuring the size spacer you need and having one made. There’s several people on here who are more than willing and capable of doing just that. Measure twice cut once. Also get decent calipers like Starrett or Mitutoyo. Don’t go to harbor freight whatever you do. It’s your life you’re toying with by half ass doing it with half ass tools. A good set of calipers will prove invaluable and last a lifetime. Hope it goes well for you.
Click to expand...
We had that same saying in my framing days. Was a framer for 15 years. Measure twice and cut once always lol.

I think I got some digital calipers my buddy gave me, he's a machinist by trade.
 
cgaroutte1201

cgaroutte1201

Member
Finally got my squish tube out, ball bearings were lodged in between it and the inner wall of the hub..took some beating to get it out..both pulley side bearings were demolished along with my spacers..the outer race is still stuck so I guess I'm going to O'Reilly's to rent a bearing puller.

Got new bearings, spacers coming from HDM asap, along with new pads since I got it all apart..

The squish tube is ruined, it has grooves all around it from the ball bearings.

Once I get the races out, I'll get that measurement @knothead and will get with ya..

Since I'm waiting, I'm gonna figure out why my Speedo doesn't work, occasionally it will flash on but it doesn't read speed or have the tach ring working. Hoping it's just an electrical issue..

Don't really got the money for a digital one ATM..

Appreciate all the help everyone \m/
 
cgaroutte1201

cgaroutte1201

Member
I do got a question about my circuit breaker and my new RIP Gen 2 kit I just put in.

I had read about the warranty fix for the VR overcharging issue and that they either installed a 40 amp inline fuse or a 40 amp dual post circuit breaker (one post just for the VR and the other for your EHC and other stuff.

My previous Wires plus harness has the inline fuse, so I kept that and my single post block (not a breaker box like they sell on HDM) that's mounted to the side of my battery box.

So my setup is my VR comes in and it's attached to that said block and after that I have my inline fuse from that block to positive side of battery.

What I did to separate the RIP kit and VR was the one wire the instructions for the kit tell you to do is to put it on a dual post block, I instead just hooked it up to positive side terminal.

And my bike runs and starts fine.

1. Do I need that dual post circuit breaker block that HDM sells or am I ok with my inline 40 amp fuse ?

From what I gathered for the video I watched on YouTube was that the VR has to have that 40 amp fuse to separate it from the RIP kit, which I understand why, as to not overload the system and ruin the kit.

Am I ok with my current setup or should I go ahead and get the dual post circuit breaker block and use like instructed.

You can't see the inline fuse, it's stuffed down inside there.
 

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