No start

[Michael rogers]

I have an 08 mastiff i put a RIP kit in and a new crank sensor plus a new battery when i turn the bike on the lights come on i go to start it at first it started to crank over but now all it does is make a loud clicking sound


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[Mickmorris]

I have an 08 mastiff i put a RIP kit in and a new crank sensor plus a new battery when i turn the bike on the lights come on i go to start it at first it started to crank over but now all it does is make a loud clicking sound


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So try a jump box and see what happens. If you use a car/truck DO NOT start the vehicle. Just use the vehicle battery to add more power. If it still doesn’t start let us know.

 

[Nukeranger]

Test your Battery CCA. Many times it’s the battery and I believe you need 310 CCA. A lot of members buy Deka but I’ve had good performance from Braille B2015. Buy from Braille for about $200 and get a 2 year warranty. First year is replacement and second is prorated. I always test a new battery prior to installation and just received my Braille B2015 yesterday and it’s CCA is about 450 amps

 

[Nukeranger]

I’ve always kept all my bike batteries on a trickle charger/maintainer. I’ve been getting about 7 years from my Braille with the exception of my last one which lasted 3 years until the CCA went down to 150 amps. I did have plenty of issues in the last two years after Hurricane Ida going straight over my house and haven’t ridden any bikes much like once each over the two years!

 

[Mr. Wright]

What battery did you use.? This question is asked at least once a week. Just because the battery is new, doesn't mean it is good.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Test your Battery CCA. Many times it’s the battery and I believe you need 310 CCA. A lot of members buy Deka but I’ve had good performance from Braille B2015. Buy from Braille for about $200 and get a 2 year warranty. First year is replacement and second is prorated. I always test a new battery prior to installation and just received my Braille B2015 yesterday and it’s CCA is about 450 amps

And bear in mind the CCA test at any shop/battery retailer is at best a guess.
There are 3 standard tests for CCA and all of them have one thing in common and that is getting the battery to 0degrees for 24hrs before testing.
All the CCA test do a CA test and use math to estimate the CCA but can not account for things that happen to the battery chemistry when the system is cold.

 

[Mikeinjersey]

I have an 08 mastiff i put a RIP kit in and a new crank sensor plus a new battery when i turn the bike on the lights come on i go to start it at first it started to crank over but now all it does is make a loud clicking sound


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Since you just got done doing the RIP installation you may have a bad connection. Your symptom indicates a possible weak battery or poor ground. I would start with a voltage test at the battery ( minimum 12.8 vdc and/or load test) if good make sure your connections to the battery are clean and tight. That includes both ends of the cables Pos + at the starter and Neg - at the frame.
If they check out good you will have to check the voltage at the green wire pulled off the starter solenoid. (12vdc when the start button is depressed) . If that voltage is good your problem will be in the Solenoid connection or the Starter.

 

[Nukeranger]

I received my Braille B2015 two days ago and it tested at approximately 450 CCA. Installed yesterday and started the bike 3 times. Waited a day, tested again at almost 450 CCA and put a little charge on it since I didn’t run the bike long. Exhaust fumes inside the living room can get a little stinky so I burned some candles and sprayed some glad. The little lady didn’t even notice when she got home.

I find that running 4 bikes and a corvette in the garage with the garage door open puts a bit of fumes in there too so I don’t worry about running a bike in the house. The AC and dogs going in and out and in and out over and over again exchanges the air pretty good and it helps having a large living room with 22 foot ceilings.

I brought all the bikes in the living room once just because that’s what men do! And, the women just have to put up with our crap too….

Now all I have to do is change both hand grips and circuit boards out…..Oh, and hours of polishing prior to moving the Ridgeback back into the garage.

It’s just easier to work in the AC when I started off replacing the battery and the bike runs great again but can’t be seen in public without being polished and pegs (done) to be restored to new condition.

 

[Michael rogers]

Since you just got done doing the RIP installation you may have a bad connection. Your symptom indicates a possible weak battery or poor ground. I would start with a voltage test at the battery ( minimum 12.8 vdc and/or load test) if good make sure your connections to the battery are clean and tight. That includes both ends of the cables Pos + at the starter and Neg - at the frame.
If they check out good you will have to check the voltage at the green wire pulled off the starter solenoid. (12vdc when the start button is depressed) . If that voltage is good your problem will be in the Solenoid connection or the Starter.

I got the bike to start but i think the start button blew because now it will only start if i use the slam start button on the starter


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[Nukeranger]

Is the slam button hard to depress? Also, have you cleaned the starter solenoid copper connections? Mine were in really bad shape and I’ve had to clean the connections inside the cover twice in 10 years. You have to take the solenoid cover off and I suggest you disconnect the battery first because it can be a shocking experience unless you know what you are doing, take precautions and you’re me because I’m lazy…..

 

[Mikeinjersey]

I got the bike to start but i think the start button blew because now it will only start if i use the slam start button on the starter


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Ok Did you go through the troubleshooting steps in my post #7 . If so what did you find? It is critical to know if you are getting 12vdc on the disconnected green solenoid wire when you depress the run/start button. At the same time you should also hear a click from your Compression Releases. IF you get the voltage your problem is at the starter or battery power Not the the button. If you ultimately need to test the start button this procedure is great!

 

[Coolbreezin]

See. Too much technology. My handlebar electronics all took a horrendous years ago. So I wired in a new turn signal & headlight switch and removed the horn. Ultimately had the bike rewired and been happier than a fat chick that got an extra candy bar from the vending machine.

 

[Michael rogers]

Ok Did you go through the troubleshooting steps in my post #7 . If so what did you find? It is critical to know if you are getting 12vdc on the disconnected green solenoid wire when you depress the run/start button. At the same time you should also hear a click from your Compression Releases. IF you get the voltage your problem is at starter or battery power Not the the button. If you ultimately need to test the start button this procedure is great!

Great video im going to do the test thank you


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[Mikeinjersey]

Keep in mind if your getting the 12vdc on the green wire there is no need to test the switch.