What is this??

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member
Could this possibly be the part that rotted out?

 

pknowles

RETIRED
20230308_150716.jpg

Ther are 2 of these fasteners holdsing the tank on. They are located just aft the front jug and under the tank. Looking under the tank, there seems to be no clearance for that grommet to just fall out.
 

john sachs

Well-Known Member
Could this possibly be the part that rotted out?

I hate to be a NAY-SAYER, but, do yourself a favor, and buy a genuine Harley Davidson front motor mount from your local Harley dealer. :oldthumbsup:
John
 

awg

Guru
Well....I've had my front fairing off many time's. Mine has no rubber bushing of any kind. Fairing bolts directly to the bracket. At least on mine that's how it is.
 

Mastiff Rider64

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
There's not much info on the bulldog baggers.
yeah I know, and that sucks because somewhere there were specs, diagrams, pictures taken during the build of these bikes. Blueprints or mechanical parts drawings, names of the companies that made the bags and fairings, but over time of the 2011 and 2012 layoffs and closing of Bigdog, then the buy out of all the parts by HDM and the reopening of BDM in 2015-2016 all this information was lost. I'm honestly thinking of having my local shop tear mine down all the way to the frame and documenting the rebuild with pictures, where all the connectors are. rubber isolator positions and everything else I can think of. May cost about 2 to 5 grand for all the labor but building an actual manual for the bagger tho, priceless. lol
 

SKOGDOG

One of the old ones.
You asked about fuel tank removal. Blacktopper and I have done it several times on my Bulldog Bagger. We fought it for hours each time, mostly to get the fuel out. Disconnecting the fuel and wires to the fuel pump is easy—- then there’s a crossover hose that has to be removed (or cut)——so draining the fuel is an issue. Of course fuelies only send fuel when the fuel pump is told to, so when you disconnect the fuel line, it doesn’t drain except for couple of seconds if you are dumb enough to turn the key and press the ‘RUN’ button. Bad deal for tank draining. The banana shape of the tank doesn’t help either, as it retains fuel at the lowest spot. Took forever to drain most of the fuel out.
We covered the frame in front of the seat with a towel and used a pry bar to lift the back of the tank—it was snug. We spilled a lot and it generally was a mess and of course we were nervous about fumes—as you know gas fumes go to the floor and dissipate outward. But we got it done without any problem. The crossover hose is a real PITA to deal with. Leaked fuel everywhere and is hard to plug.

Solution: I drained and removed—a real wrench removed and drained!!
Several years ago we had to spend several days in Flagstaff bcs the fuel pump failed (in Winslow of all places!). Had to find a truck and a shop—we had no tools and no parts. We located a skilled mechanic at an Indy shop there and I was impressed when he said that he had the tank removed and drained 20 minutes…..I asked how he did that, and he said that he removed the lower bolts (see #22 above- Paul Knowles). As I recall he said he cuts the crossover hose and yanks the tank and immediately turns it upside down—takes it outside, then removes the cap and drains the fuel into a 5 gallon bucket. A little messy but quick. If I were gonna mess with it again, I’d do it just like that—outside if possible, in a field or gravel lot. With a serious fire extinguisher handy. No matter what you do, there will be spillage of fuel, so do it outside if you can, taking all spark/venting precautions.
 
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Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
My guess...on the Bagger there are rubber isolators or "bumpers" on the front of the tank on the internal sides to dampen side-to-side movement on the square backbone. They are about 7/8" in diameter not 100% sure of thickness. Does that match what you got? Take a peak at the front of the tank to see if one side is missing.

While it appears a bolt holds them on I believe they were just stuck on with an adhesive and that isolator was just something off a shelf.....

For clarification....not at all related to the two under the tank. That really can't fall out its wedged in there with the cover and held in with the bolt. It's a completely different construction & material.
 
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pknowles

RETIRED
20230312_120103.jpgTACH=full]111707[/ATTACH]
If you look at the top left of the picture, you can see a plate welded to the frame down tubes at the bottom of the fuel tank. There is a rubber grommet on the left side and one missing on the right side. As the infamous one said, they are about 7/8ths inch diameter and about the same length. My tank doesn't move even with this missing. Hope this helps.

THIS IS A 2010 BULLDOG. I'm asuming the 2009 is the same.
 
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Mastiff Rider64

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
View attachment 111707TACH=full]111707[/ATTACH]
If you look at the top left of the picture, you can see a plate welded to the frame down tubes at the bottom of the fuel tank. There is a rubber grommet on the left side and one missing on the right side. As the infamous one said, they are about 7/8ths inch diameter and about the same length. My tank doesn't move even with this missing. Hope this helps.

THIS IS A 2010 BULLDOG. I'm asuming the 2009 is the same.
That could be it I will look when I get a chance over the next 3 days off. The only thing that looks different is mine is tapered the base is bigger in Diameter than the top. But defiantly in the ballpark of where it came from. Thank you
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
That is the front
engine mount for the rubber mounted engine/trans system of HD. Bought an aftermarket mount that was super hard rubber. Nephew told me to use the old one because of the way it rode I guess? Don't remember if the OEM is available, thus the tooling up of a repo part.

I remember some loophole I used to squeeze it out between frame and engine, once the center bolt was removed and the two bolts removed at the ends of the steel plate. Might as well use off road bushings for the same effect.​
 

Mastiff Rider64

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
That is the front
engine mount for the rubber mounted engine/trans system of HD. Bought an aftermarket mount that was super hard rubber. Nephew told me to use the old one because of the way it rode I guess? Don't remember if the OEM is available, thus the tooling up of a repo part.

I remember some loophole I used to squeeze it out between frame and engine, once the center bolt was removed and the two bolts removed at the ends of the steel plate. Might as well use off road bushings for the same effect.​
Can you show me where you are talking about?
 

Sven

Well-Known Member

Go to crankcase page. #29 is the front engine rubber mount and is still available. Aftermarket my be less money, but may run transferring more vibe to the bike.

Go to frame assembly and swing arm. Look for #28 which is the frame number, then at the 28 number, look to the right and see the large hole at the crossbar. That's where it is mounted.

This is for the HD mind you. BD are rubber mounted engines?
 

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member

Mickmorris

Well Known Member
Supporting Member


View attachment 111787
I am actually thinking it’s that rubber bushing under the tank that Paul showed a couple of posts back. Definitely not thinking it’s a motor mount bushing.
 

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member
I am actually thinking it’s that rubber bushing under the tank that Paul showed a couple of posts back. Definitely not thinking it’s a motor mount bushing.
Well it looked tapered thats why I leaned towards the MM bushing. It looks more like what fell out imo. But, I am probably incorrect.
 
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