Battery Question

awg

Guru
If you had a battery that would charge to 13+ volts, but drops to 6 to 7 volts when starting. Can you still check the voltage regulator once you get it running?
 

Mr. Wright

Knows some things
Supporting Member
That's the sure sign of assorted cell. But if it is running yes you can check your stator and voltage regulator
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Yes. Volts means PUSH. Your battery no longer has that PUSH. What you showed yourself is how much does the battery have for reserves? A well charged battery is 12.8v. The load test or you trying to turn over the starter motor, this shows it has reserves if the volts drop down to 11.1v, them recovers back to 12.8v. It happens so fast the recovery time disappears and you then see 14.4v at the stator output, and the voltage reg is working correctly.

So yes of the voltage kicks up to 14+ volts, or no, the stator did not kick in, and remains at 6 or 7v's, then it's the stator. Then again, this is a bike that needs 5v for the ignition system's black box and might not stay running.
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Yes. Volts means PUSH. Your battery no longer has that PUSH. What you showed yourself is how much does the battery have for reserves? A well charged battery is 12.8v. The load test or you trying to turn over the starter motor, this shows it has reserves if the volts drop down to 11.1v, them recovers back to 12.8v. It happens so fast the recovery time disappears and you then see 14.4v at the stator output, and the voltage reg is working correctly.

So yes of the voltage kicks up to 14+ volts, or no, the stator did not kick in, and remains at 6 or 7v's, then it's the stator. Then again, this is a bike that needs 5v for the ignition system's black box and might not stay running.
Correction, you will see 20-60v AC at the stator output.
The voltage regulator will bring that down to 14.4v DC to charge the battery.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
I'm saying to watch the battery volts make their move showing who is not putting out. So if you just watch the battery volts:

1. Batt shows 12.8v drops to 11.1v and recovers to 12.8v = good battery.
a. Batt shows 12.8v drops to 6-7v and does not recover to 12.8v = bad battery.

2. 12.8v to 11.1v to 14.4v = good volt reg.
a. 12.8v to 15v+ = volt reg bad.

3. 12.8v to 11.1v recovers to 12.8v then bumps up to 14.4v = good stator.
a. 12.8v to 11.1v recovers to 12.8v then remains at 12.8v = bad stator.

This says you do not to read AC out of the stator, but watch the battery's volts and narrow down either of the 3 components that make up the charging system, and pinpoint who has failed.

From many steps to one visual as it starts up and idles simply watching the battery volts.
 

awg

Guru
Yea the battery will charge up to 13.4V. But drops to 5 to 7 volts when trying to start. Wasn't sure if you can check the charging system with this condition. If I do need a voltage regulator, what does everyone recommend? The Big Dog one's used to be a problem. Are they now any better? Or should I go with a different brand?
 

awg

Guru
Got it. Will be getting a battery and go from there. Went to there web site. Lots of good info on checking the charging system. Thanks for that.
 
Last edited:

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Yea the battery will charge up to 13.4V. But drops to 5 to 7 volts when trying to start. Wasn't sure if you can check the charging system with this condition. If I do need a voltage regulator, what does everyone recommend? The Big Dog one's used to be a problem. Are they now any better? Or should I go with a different brand?
Battery should not drop below 10V while cranking -- Likely a shorted cell in the battery.
 

awg

Guru
Yea I had it charging all day. Checked the voltage, it was at 13.4v. Went to start the bike it dropped to 7 volts right off the get go. Tried starting it the second time it dropped to 5volts. Couldn't get it started. So I really can't check the rest of the charging system. Every bike I have purchased I needed to replace the battery. Go figure.
 
I'm saying to watch the battery volts make their move showing who is not putting out. So if you just watch the battery volts:

1. Batt shows 12.8v drops to 11.1v and recovers to 12.8v = good battery.
a. Batt shows 12.8v drops to 6-7v and does not recover to 12.8v = bad battery.

2. 12.8v to 11.1v to 14.4v = good volt reg.
a. 12.8v to 15v+ = volt reg bad.

3. 12.8v to 11.1v recovers to 12.8v then bumps up to 14.4v = good stator.
a. 12.8v to 11.1v recovers to 12.8v then remains at 12.8v = bad stator.

This says you do not to read AC out of the stator, but watch the battery's volts and narrow down either of the 3 components that make up the charging system, and pinpoint who has failed.

From many steps to one visual as it starts up and idles simply watching the battery volts.
I do this while the bike is idling? I’ve been having issues where I start the bike. Runs good. I get home and sometimes it starts right up and other times it tries to start and drains the battery. The most recent time I was warming up my bike and it cut off on its own. I check the battery and the volts were dropping quickly to less then 4 05 pitbull.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
Cesar what voltage do you see across the battery while your bike is running around 1500 rpm ? If it's not 14 + vdc your battery is not getting charged by the VR.
 
Cesar what voltage do you see across the battery while your bike is running around 1500 rpm ? If it's not 14 + vdc your battery is not getting charged by the VR.
Doesn’t make it to 14. Stays around 12.8 Had it running and cut off and battery volts went down fast with everything off and key in off position


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Doesn’t make it to 14. Stays around 12.8 Had it running and cut off and battery volts went down fast with everything off and key in off position


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looks like they hit the voltage regulator on a curb or something. Does this mean the VR is damaged



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Top