Axle shaft cover screw BROKEN, that didn’t take long. I hope this is not a sign of things to come.

Jay Dawg

Member
I went slow, I went easy, forward and back trying to clear the threads of corrosion and Loctite, 3 of the little bastards cooperated the last one gave me a big FU! Now I can’t be the only one that has done this but I have never tried to drill out such a small screw. I’m open to suggestions AGAIN. LOL! 77FA6C4A-3B73-4CA1-A128-B8C7CDFC2CCD.jpegC03E8981-F4D1-4987-B6C3-F0AD564D8105.jpeg
 

TreeGuru

Active Member
I went slow, I went easy, forward and back trying to clear the threads of corrosion and Loctite, 3 of the little bastards cooperated the last one gave me a big FU! Now I can’t be the only one that has done this but I have never tried to drill out such a small screw. I’m open to suggestions AGAIN. LOL! View attachment 104662View attachment 104663
I'm not saying do what I did. Some one had put the wrong screws in mine and after I got the screws out I took a tap and tried to clean up the threads . They were so buggered up I had to cut out with a tap to the next bigger size working the tap slowly a little at a time in and out.
 

Gr8_Lakes

Member
Agree with the LH drill bit, probably starting with regular 1/16” (or about - just tiny) drill bit for a pilot hole. Stay as centered as possible, then something LH 5/32” or less, to prevent mucking the threads. Usually I have good luck with a LH bit, they bite quite a bit and the pilot hole usually induces a little heat close to the threads. Worst case scenario: you get a little off center and take a little bit of threads off the side of a non structural bolt hole. Re-tap. I have a bolt extractor kit, and I don’t think it has ever worked. I guess they’re made for un-seized bolts, that the head just fell off of :rolleyes:.

Side note: I found an interesting way of dealing with stubborn bolts in decorative places many years ago. My pops had a seat back on his Harley Bad Boy that somebody had mounted with the strongest Loctite I’ve ever encountered. He’d already rounded the edges off a hex head bolt when he came over for help. We taped off and covered everything but the rounded bolt. Then tack-welded a nut on it (as most already know). But, the heat from the weld penetrated the bolt so well, that it backed right out afterward. So we did the same to the other three and it worked great. It’s a trick I learned and filed away for applying heat to a bolt in a pretty, painted area, where I would never use a heating torch. It’s worked on a couple other similar situations without fail, even when corrosion was the problem.
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
I went slow, I went easy, forward and back trying to clear the threads of corrosion and Loctite, 3 of the little bastards cooperated the last one gave me a big FU! Now I can’t be the only one that has done this but I have never tried to drill out such a small screw. I’m open to suggestions AGAIN. LOL! View attachment 104662View attachment 104663
I've got 2 of those snapped on my K-9 -- One on each side of the bike. Haven't found any small LH thread drill bits to even startt o deal with it yet. Don't even ask how long!
 

Jay Dawg

Member
I'm not saying do what I did. Some one had put the wrong screws in mine and after I got the screws out I took a tap and tried to clean up the threads . They were so buggered up I had to cut out with a tap to the next bigger size working the tap slowly a little at a time in and out.
I’m gonna try not to have to do that but not sure I’ll be able to get that out I’m gonna assemble all the right tools before I even start this one.
 

Jay Dawg

Member
Agree with the LH drill bit, probably starting with regular 1/16” (or about - just tiny) drill bit for a pilot hole. Stay as centered as possible, then something LH 5/32” or less, to prevent mucking the threads. Usually I have good luck with a LH bit, they bite quite a bit and the pilot hole usually induces a little heat close to the threads. Worst case scenario: you get a little off center and take a little bit of threads off the side of a non structural bolt hole. Re-tap. I have a bolt extractor kit, and I don’t think it has ever worked. I guess they’re made for un-seized bolts, that the head just fell off of :rolleyes:.

Side note: I found an interesting way of dealing with stubborn bolts in decorative places many years ago. My pops had a seat back on his Harley Bad Boy that somebody had mounted with the strongest Loctite I’ve ever encountered. He’d already rounded the edges off a hex head bolt when he came over for help. We taped off and covered everything but the rounded bolt. Then tack-welded a nut on it (as most already know). But, the heat from the weld penetrated the bolt so well, that it backed right out afterward. So we did the same to the other three and it worked great. It’s a trick I learned and filed away for applying heat to a bolt in a pretty, painted area, where I would never use a heating torch. It’s worked on a couple other similar situations without fail, even when corrosion was the problem.
This is so small I don’t think I’d be able to do anything with the welder, I wish I could.
 

Jay Dawg

Member
Harbor Freight carries a set for 8.49, Advanced auto carries a similar set for 21.00
. I ordered these from Amazon, enough of these for a lifetime! I’d offer them to send to people but after paying shipping it’s probably just cheaper to go onto Amazon‘s website and just order them you can order as few as 10.
6DBBBA86-067C-4D88-99E8-06790C06ADEB.png
 

TreeGuru

Active Member
. I ordered these from Amazon, enough of these for a lifetime! I’d offer them to send to people but after paying shipping it’s probably just cheaper to go onto Amazon‘s website and just order them you can order as few as 10.
View attachment 104806
ACE Hardware has them in chrome or polished stainless, It's your choice. I don't remember the grade of mine. I may have put just a little anti-seize on mine. There only function is to hold on polished axle cover.
 
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