Wiring help please

S

Sven

Well-Known Member
Trouble-tree goes something like this...
Battery: Has to have 12v.
Red battery side wire to fuse.
Fuse wire to key switch.
Switch wire out to coil or module. Someone will walk it to either or.

With test light/volt meter... See if 12v goes from battery to fuse. With light, you are watching for flow from jobber in to jobber out.
With meter/lights... Remove fuse and inspect, then install fuse and on the fuse out-to side, see if the fuse can flow 12v out to that wire and ground someplace for fuse pin integrity.
With meter/light... Go up to switch and see if it's hot up to the switch(jobber).

Up to this point, we do not need the key on, but check flow from wire end-to jobber-then wire out of jobber. So flow is from battery to fuse to wire up to the switch. All reads 12v up to here.
____________________________________________________

With key on it goes something like this:
The meter/light is checking the jobber(switch's) mounting studs for the light to come on/meter to show 12v.
The wire to the ign mod is to see if 12v is up to the next jobber(plastic connector's) pin to show 12v.
The pin in the module to the next jobber(hard part) inside the module has burnt out = Ignition Module is junk.

Note:
The coil [with more wires on the one side] should be hot. That one wire could be from the key switch to coil. Then the other wire would head over to the ign mod for 12v; so it could tie in with the coil. You ran thru the whole tree, but here at the coil with key on, you went right to the coil to see if is hot at the coil. Now you know all the links, meaning, wires to the jobbers are fine up to the coil. Get it how quick and dirty that was is the one test?

Then if the ign mod is not triggering the coil, the next trick [to verify] is to move the cup so the window gap is right at the leading edge of the magnetic pickup. Then take a screwdriver and toggle the cup to the pickup and break the contact and watch the plugs spark. It says the ign mod is good, the coil is good, the switch is good, etc.

Keep the plugs in on that cup test, it might fire off and break the pickup off, wrinkle the cup, because you were not fast enough with the screwdriver, Mr. Shortcut.
 
Jersey Big Mike

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Sven said:
Keep the plugs in on that cup test, it might fire off and break the pickup off, wrinkle the cup, because you were not fast enough with the screwdriver, Mr. Shortcut.
Click to expand...
Sven, wouldn't you want the plugs OUT on that test as if they fire then they can NOT move the piston/crankshaft/cam etc, where as if they are in the engine it could fire and rotate the engine and catch the screwdriver for mr shortcut.
 
S

Sven

Well-Known Member
Jersey Big Mike said:
Sven, wouldn't you want the plugs OUT on that test as if they fire then they can NOT move the piston/crankshaft/cam etc, where as if they are in the engine it could fire and rotate the engine and catch the screwdriver for mr shortcut.
Click to expand...
No, no plugs need to come out. More you find another set of plugs and put them in the plug caps to check spark. That's why the warning not to have the plug wires on the spark plugs. Maybe I should have wrote it... 'If you keep the plug wires on the plugs'... Whereas, it is reads more like a Clint Eastwood quote, 'go head, keep the plugs hooked up and see what happens' as I state how it might go down.
 
heybaylor

heybaylor

Active Member
test light is a better choice than a meter.
the light actually draws current where the meter only shows "potential voltage"
dirty/corroded contacts,switches,connections, have been known to show potential voltage
but fail to pass current .
hope this helps
 
Jersey Big Mike

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Sven said:
No, no plugs need to come out. More you find another set of plugs and put them in the plug caps to check spark. That's why the warning not to have the plug wires on the spark plugs. Maybe I should have wrote it... 'If you keep the plug wires on the plugs'... Whereas, it is reads more like a Clint Eastwood quote, 'go head, keep the plugs hooked up and see what happens' as I state how it might go down.
Click to expand...
Yeah, my "sven" must be slipping, normally I don't miss your meaning anymore! Absolutely agree with above.
 
Mikeinjersey

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
05BDMchopper said:
No power at ignition module , what would cause this ?
Click to expand...
Hi 05,
When you say no power do you know that because the red ignition light isn't coming on or do you mean you don't have ignition and the bike won't start?
To start you should make sure your battery is fully charged and load tested and reading 12.8vdc or better. Clean and tighten the connections on the battery. The Ehc supplies power to the ignition module. If the Ehc doesn't have proper power it can do many different things including not supplying the power to the ignition module.
Look for the fault lights on the EHC for clues.
 
0

05BDMchopper

Member
Mikeinjersey said:
Hi 05,
When you say no power do you know that because the red ignition light isn't coming on or do you mean you don't have ignition and the bike won't start?
To start you should make sure your battery is fully charged and load tested and reading 12.8vdc or better. Clean and tighten the connections on the battery. The Ehc supplies power to the ignition module. If the Ehc doesn't have proper power it can do many different things including not supplying the power to the ignition module.
Look for the fault lights on the EHC for clues.
Click to expand...
Bike runs great I wasn't pushing the run button
 
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