Bent Pushrod ??

[Mikeinjersey]

Hi guys,

07 K9 -117 with slight top end tick in rear cylinder after warm up.
I'm looking for tech opinions on this video. #1 does it look bent? #2 If so, do I replace with S&S Quickee pushrods and see if it's fixed? # 3 Pull the rocker box and investigate before making my decision? If I go with # 3 and the pushrod is bent is it worth putting in the Quickee at that point?
Thanks

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[heybaylor]

its a adjustable ,take it out and roll it on a pane of glass

 

[chubs]

Something is outta whack. I believe it IS bent, or is just "walking around" on the lifter. Might as well pull it and do like heybaylor says, roll it on a pane of glass to be absolutely sure . If it is indeed bent, at least ya already have it out of the way for a new one.

 

[pknowles]

What caused it to bend is the queation

 

[Sven]

Do this: EOIC means to stop once you see the exhaust begin to open = Adjust the intake on that one cylinder.
And IC means to stop once you see the intake begin to close = Adjust the exhaust on the same cylinder.

Say we use the rod to spin, the short locker rod end remains stationary. Magic mark a line on the longer rod. This designates one flat of that adjuster nut. Remember your EOIC position, because you are going to shorten the rod by screwing it in. Once you have up and down movement, spin it back out, and take the up and down play out of the rod. It has no up and down play, and it is easy to spin. Now you're ready to adjust the rod.

Now begin to count out the flats and stop at 24 flats, tighten the piggy nut on the smaller rod. NOTE: Clustis fucker hear ran the screw on the rod side and I got a call the bike was making noise and was low on power. Rod never bent, just had a senior moment and EOIC'd it back to said spins.

As suggested, you might/might not have to pull the top rocker boxes; if these are the quick and dirty rods with longer threaded shafts, but they don't look like it. Not sure. Gotta check the rod and now check compression. Better if both pushrods were out and you'd take a leak-down test instead. You need the valves to open and close for a compression test.

I'm going by mem on the flat count so someone might correct me if different. And no, just hand turn the crank to the next EO or IC and by the time something bleeds down? Where is the oil pressure to load the lifter(?), so just begin adjusting and don't stop waiting for some fallacy bleed down, especially turning that slow to watch the lifter move to either its EO or IC.

 

[Sven]

What caused it to bend is the queation

Frozen valve tag? Over rev before parking it?

 

[john sachs]

Rule of thumb on adjustment when you DON'T have the manufacturers specs:
WITH A CLEAR HEAD and MIND.
Push Rods Threads Per Inch ADJUSTMENT.
24 teeth per inch, adjust at 2 1/2 turns.
30 teeth per inch, adjust at 3 turns.
32 teeth per inch, adjust at 3.2 turns.
40 teeth per inch, adjust at 4 turns,
1 flat of a turn one way or another, won't make a difference.
Now you get the picture.
Set the valve you want to adjust at a shade past TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke. Both lifters bottomed out on the cams base circle.
John
What ever valve you set first, don't try to set the other valve until you can turn the previous push rod you set with your fingers.
Don't roll the engine over until you can turn both pushrods that you set with your fingers.

 

[Mikeinjersey]

Thanks for all of your input. I will let you know what I decide to do. I did adjust the pushrods but the tick still came back after warm up. I probably will pull the top off and check the pushrod out of the bike along with a look at the rocker assembly.
Thanks again.