Clutch Issues

[John M Kovarovic]

Greetings to all. In spite of world events, hope everyone is doing okay…

I am new to the forums and BDM. I have a 06 K9 that is giving me some problems. Hopefully, that can be resolved with the talent available here…

My issue is the clutch. I can’t get it to work (correctly). Start the bike, pull the clutch lever, hit the shifter peg and the bike dumps. It’s as if I just hit the shifter without using the clutch. Bike goes into gear and stalls out…

I’ve tried adjusting the clutch in accordance with the manual and procedures that I have found in the forums. Nothing works. I’ve replaced the cutch cable, clutch push rod, ball and ramp, clutch pack, throw-out bearing, pressure plate I know that the clutch pack steel plates have rounded edges on one side and sharp on the other (in all cases, plates are installed with the sharp edge towards the transmission). A bit frustrating. I’m starting to think I need to replace the entire clutch assembly…

In any event, any suggestions/ideas would be most appreciated…

Thanking everyone in advance…

John

 

[Sven]

When you pull the clutch lever in, see if the pressure plate moves out. If it moves out, it's not the ramp/rod/adj screw. With lever still pulled to the grip, move the big outer basket and see if it's somewhat tight or feels like the broken backing in the other thread... feels real loose.

Remove the steels and rest those on your palm. Do any steels show a warp, or are they flat on each other/no gap. Cut side faces pressure plate, not trans.

With bike shifted to top gear, dead engine, clutch lever in, move the bike back and forth to break the plates free. By hand, lever never released once the plates are broken free; hand spin the clutch center. This spins all the steel plates, and when the center begins to move, let the clutch lever out and see when the center binds up kissing the next plate... where is the lever now? Did the lever leave the grip and now you can't move the center, or did the lever stop at the middle of the throw when the center would no longer move?

This is all before you remove the plates to let the steels rest on your palm. Where did the center stop in proportion to lever position?

 

[pauldeepsea]

Greetings to all. In spite of world events, hope everyone is doing okay…

I am new to the forums and BDM. I have a 06 K9 that is giving me some problems. Hopefully, that can be resolved with the talent available here…

My issue is the clutch. I can’t get it to work (correctly). Start the bike, pull the clutch lever, hit the shifter peg and the bike dumps. It’s as if I just hit the shifter without using the clutch. Bike goes into gear and stalls out…

I’ve tried adjusting the clutch in accordance with the manual and procedures that I have found in the forums. Nothing works. I’ve replaced the cutch cable, clutch push rod, ball and ramp, clutch pack, throw-out bearing, pressure plate I know that the clutch pack steel plates have rounded edges on one side and sharp on the other (in all cases, plates are installed with the sharp edge towards the transmission). A bit frustrating. I’m starting to think I need to replace the entire clutch assembly…

In any event, any suggestions/ideas would be most appreciated…

Thanking everyone in advance…

John

If the clutch is adjusted properly, may also want to check the shifter pawl and adjust as required, another thing to look at is your shift rod adjustment. Are the clutch plates worn?
Clutch adjustment can be finicky and may just need to do minor adjustments to find the sweet spot .

 

[woodbutcher]

could also be the "not so" trusty clutch carrier. poor design had them breaking and wreaking havoc. pull the clutch pack and have a close look.

 

[Mr. Wright]

When adjusting, run the push rod in till it touches, then only back it off 1/8 turn.
Also, what primary oil are you running

 

[John M Kovarovic]

could also be the "not so" trusty clutch carrier. poor design had them breaking and wreaking havoc. pull the clutch pack and have a close look.

 

[John M Kovarovic]

When adjusting, run the push rod in till it touches, then only back it off 1/8 turn.
Also, what primary oil are you running

Have been using Spectre

 

[Th3InfamousI]

That's the non-hardened nut. At some point that clutch hub nut came loose, you can see the frictions wore on the outer hub. It's hard to tell by the pictures, I can see the wear lines but if you run your finger along that outer hub, are their any ridges preventing your clutch plates from moving smoothly?

Check your stack height on the clutch plates & steels too. There's a narrow tolerance, new stack height is 1.97"-1.98" out of spec even a few thousandths, it's going to cause issues. If you have the original 12 plate the steels were prone to wearing and why later models it's a 9 plate. 9 plate is the way to go no difference in stack height.

Also read this thread for some more info - https://www.bigdogbiker.com/threads/rebuild-or-replace.81441/



Whenever you replace that stock carrier with the billet one you should probably go ahead and replace with the new hardened nut & washer. Left-hand threaded torque to 130-150 ft/lbs with RED.

FOR BIG DOG Baker Clutch Nut & Washer - Hardened - 2005-11 models

New Fitment for Big Dog Baker transmission clutch hub hardened nut and washer for all Big Dog models from 2005-11. This is a reverse left hand threaded nut.

www.bigdogpartskingpin.com

 

[John M Kovarovic]

The bike (as far as I know) had the original clutch pack installed (but it has been replaced). Will take the measurements to be sure. Have ordered a new billet carrier and hardened nut (thank you). Steel and fiber plates do move smoothly with no apparent binding This has been done many times ) Checked the outer hub and did not see or feel any abnormalities. Of course, I'm somewhat of a nugget on this bike...

Well, it's a nice day and I have new stuff to try!!!

Thank you for all the info and advice. It is very much appreciated...

 

[John M Kovarovic]

That's the non-hardened nut. At some point that clutch hub nut came loose, you can see the frictions wore on the outer hub. It's hard to tell by the pictures, I can see the wear lines but if you run your finger along that outer hub, are their any ridges preventing your clutch plates from moving smoothly?

Check your stack height on the clutch plates & steels too. There's a narrow tolerance, new stack height is 1.97"-1.98" out of spec even a few thousandths, it's going to cause issues. If you have the original 12 plate the steels were prone to wearing.

Also read this thread for some more info - https://www.bigdogbiker.com/threads/rebuild-or-replace.81441/

View attachment 79152

Whenever you replace that stock carrier with the billet one you should probably go ahead and replace with the new hardened nut & washer. Left-hand threaded torque to 130-150 ft/lbs with RED.

FOR BIG DOG Baker Clutch Nut & Washer - Hardened - 2005-11 models

New Fitment for Big Dog Baker transmission clutch hub hardened nut and washer for all Big Dog models from 2005-11. This is a reverse left hand threaded nut.

www.bigdogpartskingpin.com

could also be the "not so" trusty clutch carrier. poor design had them breaking and wreaking havoc. pull the clutch pack and have a close look.

 

[John M Kovarovic]

If the clutch is adjusted properly, may also want to check the shifter pawl and adjust as required, another thing to look at is your shift rod adjustment. Are the clutch plates worn?
Clutch adjustment can be finicky and may just need to do minor adjustments to find the sweet spot .

Will do...

 

[Sven]

That's the non-hardened nut. At some point that clutch hub nut came loose, you can see the frictions wore on the outer hub. It's hard to tell by the pictures, I can see the wear lines but if you run your finger along that outer hub, are their any ridges preventing your clutch plates from moving smoothly?

Not buying it... "clutch hub nut came loose". Once the pack is locked, clutch center or what is chained to the rear wheel is hammered on the one side. Engine to chain is hammering the other side is hammer two. Said another way, lift the pack slams to one side, load the pack hammers the other side.

IF... those grooves are too deep, a plate would not slide away but the tangs are locked in the grooves... IF... that says the steels are not warped.

 

[John M Kovarovic]

Roger that....