1. 100% concentration: Puts you into a new world. Be aware of all that is around you. Never break concentration. Catch it and go back to being 100% or it is going to bite you.
2. Sit upright all the time:
3. Parking lot stop and go: You want to let the clutch out and train your ear to the engine. The release has to match the engine rpm. The lower [rpm] the slower the release. For practice; rub your tummy, pat your head, then swap by tapping the tummy, rub the bald spot. Coordination done. It's all about feel and timing. Feel the release, time the stall vs the over rev.
4. Clutch lever modulation: When turning a [slow] corner at an intersection, pulling the clutch lever in is a helper in the way of stopping the 'push' around the corner. Remember that modulation on slow turns, and where needs apply, you'll learn that as you go.
5. Road transitions: When you can't directly cross over a driveway type transition, where the cement meets the asphalt kind of bump, cross that at an angle of 45 degrees or so, 'not parallel with it' in other words. See how it would lock the front tire in the groove instead?
6. Handlebar input: The push-pull effect is what you think is the opposite input, but here is the 'for every action/reaction'. So as you cruise, your grip is not like a bear trap, but more a hand on her boob, your dick, a feather kind of grip. Relax. Choose a hand on the bar. If you pull it is going to do the opposite; push it, and it shows you how a bike steers. Just know how it operates and then forget about it, back to concentration.
7. Be SMOOTH: I can't express how this will make you a faster [better] rider/driver. So the trick on this one is to look way out ahead. You'll see which direction you are headed via steer in a smooth transition. You start speeding up and steering input is not going to be there; because you stepped over the first step [being smooth first] and down you go. Find yourself listening to the engine. Are you on/off the throttle or are you applying the smoothing effect. There is no floating of the throttle. Catch yourself and break that un-smoothing habit.
8. Braking: Bad habits climb when first starting out and that says rear brake percentages starting out. In other words, the physics says the front brake stops quicker than the rear. So within the concentration of your multitasking's of head/hands/feet, you are at least in a 50/50% braking input. Once you feel the effect of both, then you can apply the more 70/30%-80/20% of more front brake and keep applying the rear less. You'll notice the front stops a lot faster and that's just hours on the road is your sweet spot in the 'panic braking' of it. Short of locking the front brake up in the practice rounds, as soon as you feel the front lock, make your brain immediately release the brake lever. You have so much time to correct in a spit second, recovery is a piece of cake. Lots happening so lots of concentration. Try front brake pumping until your confidence builds up on the brakes.
9. Straighten out the road. Back to your line of sight way up the road. If not on the bike, then in the car. That's the practice.
10. Deer Eyes: Look for an out, not continue to look at how you'll be collected into the mess. Part of the ride is to steer somewhere away from the event. You'll be surprised how much time you have in a spit second to make a decision. Always look for that out and keep it upright.
11. Left hand turns at an intersection: Where looking way out ahead helps you slow down and figure out this kind of timing. Probably one of the most effective situations to concentrate on. Stay awake of someone turning in front of you right where X marks the spot. That's every intersection before you enter into one... Avoid being a stat.
12. Foot to peg timing: Maybe striking another bad habit is when to put your feet up? Guess what; perfect lot practice. Once the confidence of the throttle to clutch transition is to your satisfaction, hop the foot on the peg, you're stable as soon as you move. This way you have all the controls ready.
13. Ride your own ride: It's a self learning curve. You'll fall into a category of skill level say. You'll have the basics down, but only the Mile Hailwood in you knows for sure. I've heard motor patrol officers never crash in their careers and so can you. Man adapts to speed. I had a conversation with another rider that knows the reputation of my bike and would not even think of riding it. They know their level. You'll find yours.
Here is where I apply 1, 7, 9, and 12. If you hit wide screen, look way out ahead and see where/how to straightening the road out. Line wise, keep looking way out ahead and watch the yellow and white lines hide under or are at the side of the bike on your peripheral vision. I, I do not break concentration from apex to apex throughout the vid. 7, Ear wise, I'm not all over the place engine note wise. I want to straighten out the road so I remain smooth in the transitions. They kick up the speed, I setup way up ahead for entry, but you get the idea that smooth comes first, then entry speed being; the sky is the limit in the balls packaging. 9. I'm always looking for the shortest path, and the exit is all about being smooth.... as if on rails. Not a jerk of the bars getting there, but, how can I word it... smoothing there on the exit. That's more you are in control of the speed, not the bike. 12 says I ride in my own zone. I'm always in the practice of being smooth no matter the mile or wheel count.
The Disclaimer reads: You'd be dead you follow my lines in that vid. I abort the yellow if I time in with a car. When the road is clear I'm always cutting a line being smooth. And when in the car I can watch people in the [rear view] deer eye me and fly off into the white line... Even the poor semi's are in over correction... believe me, I laugh a lot. And when the tailgater is going to play that game, I step up the speed and see if they still want some of it now.
Smooth comes first, speed is second. Have fun with a real sport. Dis ain't no game, fella.
