2010 Big Dog Bulldog "Will not stay running" O2 Sensor Code

WoMbaT[DA]

New Member
All,
I'm new to this forum as I just purchased a 2010 Big Dog Bulldog. 1819 S&S with S&S ECM
Bike only has 3000 miles on it. Ran fine at the dealer. I got 15 miles on it and check engine light came on then off again.
After the bike sitting for a few days in the garage I tried to start it again, and it doesn't want to idle at all. Then after a few tries to restart it will not stay running unless I feather the throttle and then it usually backfires through the throttle body and then dies.
It did have a code in it which I did clear using the protune software from S&S. It was saying an issue with the O2 sensor.
I have not replaced the O2 sensors as of yet as I am not certain that is the problem and the cheapest O2 is about 120.00 that I can find
(Is there aftermarket ones anyone would know about or a site to check to see if cheaper if possible. Again I am not against buying the expensive ones I would just like to know if other options are available. A part number would be great as well.) I did take both O2 sensors out and clean them thoroughly and tried to start it again with the same result.
Has anyone run into this issue with the o2 sensor? If so any suggestions would be helpful.
I also changed out the plugs after the issue happened just to rule out something simple.

Also one thing to note I did get the "Low RPM" reading on the tach once or twice at a stop light. I do know I have to adjust the idle on it.

Again I'm new here and any thoughts are welcome.
 

Mastiff Rider64

Well-Known Member
Hi there I have a 2009 bagger and i recently had both o2 sensors changed out to the wide band sensors along with a unlocked programmable vfi. So i feel your pain but if Im sure my O2 sensors were 80 bucks a piece. I bought them at a shop near by called C&C Thunder in Cowpens (yes yhats actually the name of the town) SC. You could call them tell them Terry with the 2009 Big dog bagger set you up with them and tell them you need to get a price on the same o2 sensors they put in my bike. There number is 864- 463-7433. They use to be a big dog dealer and service center. Same mechanic (Joe) has been there since day 1 and he is S&S certified. You could also try HDM, Eric, Donna or Derek their website is bigdogpartskingpin.com or try Curtis at wildsteedworx.com and one thing that would ve helpful to know what was the code letter and number that you got. Because to me it sounds that you are not getting enough fuel.
 

WoMbaT[DA]

New Member
Hi there I have a 2009 bagger and i recently had both o2 sensors changed out to the wide band sensors along with a unlocked programmable vfi. So i feel your pain but if Im sure my O2 sensors were 80 bucks a piece. I bought them at a shop near by called C&C Thunder in Cowpens (yes yhats actually the name of the town) SC. You could call them tell them Terry with the 2009 Big dog bagger set you up with them and tell them you need to get a price on the same o2 sensors they put in my bike. There number is 864- 463-7433. They use to be a big dog dealer and service center. Same mechanic (Joe) has been there since day 1 and he is S&S certified. You could also try HDM, Eric, Donna or Derek their website is bigdogpartskingpin.com or try Curtis at wildsteedworx.com and one thing that would ve helpful to know what was the code letter and number that you got. Because to me it sounds that you are not getting enough fuel.
Mastiff Rider64 -
Thanks so much for the info. Much appreciated and I will definitely start there. Can't thank you enough ! !
 

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
Unless the fault is active, I would not replace the O2 sensors. They are very robust standard sensors and highly unlikely to fail.

Secondly, if you have are having issues at idle, it can’t be the O2 because these bikes run open loop at idle.

Many of the EFI bikes mine included had issues with fuel systems, with debris in the injectors from the tank etc. You have a 10 year old bike with 3000 miles. That’s a lot of sitting around with or without fuel. The hoses get rotten etc.

If you are having to give it throttle to keep running that’s a sign it’s not getting enough fuel.

If it were mine I would clean it all out top to bottom including the injectors. If you capable of removing them you can remove and clean or replace the screens and activate them with a 9v battery to flow cleaner through them

Don’t just start throwing expensive parts at the bike.
 

Mastiff Rider64

Well-Known Member
Unless the fault is active, I would not replace the O2 sensors. They are very robust standard sensors and highly unlikely to fail.

Secondly, if you have are having issues at idle, it can’t be the O2 because these bikes run open loop at idle.

Many of the EFI bikes mine included had issues with fuel systems, with debris in the injectors from the tank etc. You have a 10 year old bike with 3000 miles. That’s a lot of sitting around with or without fuel. The hoses get rotten etc.

If you are having to give it throttle to keep running that’s a sign it’s not getting enough fuel.

If it were mine I would clean it all out top to bottom including the injectors. If you capable of removing them you can remove and clean or replace the screens and activate them with a 9v battery to flow cleaner through them

Don’t just start throwing expensive parts at the bike.
New VFI, new injectors, new Air temp Sensor, new Fuel Pump, New Spark Plugs, New Wires which I still need to install tomorrow, new O2 sensors, New fuel pressure regulator, New hoses, heck what else is there??? oh throttle position sensor. All done at same time, got it back still had a check engine light.
Guess what it was....intake gasket leak.....
Point to the story.....
Don't be like me....lol
Next 585 cam.....just to see if that fixes it. lol
Or at least that is what I'm telling my Girlfriend.
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Unless the fault is active, I would not replace the O2 sensors. They are very robust standard sensors and highly unlikely to fail.

Secondly, if you have are having issues at idle, it can’t be the O2 because these bikes run open loop at idle.

Many of the EFI bikes mine included had issues with fuel systems, with debris in the injectors from the tank etc. You have a 10 year old bike with 3000 miles. That’s a lot of sitting around with or without fuel. The hoses get rotten etc.

If you are having to give it throttle to keep running that’s a sign it’s not getting enough fuel.

If it were mine I would clean it all out top to bottom including the injectors. If you capable of removing them you can remove and clean or replace the screens and activate them with a 9v battery to flow cleaner through them

Don’t just start throwing expensive parts at the bike.
Just pull my fuel rail off to clean my injectors -- What idiot engineer use straight 10-32 screw on the rail -- not going to be straight screwdriver screws when it goes back together that's for sure.
Cleaned the injectors then while reinstalling them in the rail pushed a little hard on one and the bottom cracked by the o-ring -- waiting on new ones right now.

I want a new rule -- every engineer has to repair in the field everything they design to make sure nothing STUPID is done! The only 2 screws (vs bolts) holding things -- had to take the tank off to use 1/4 imapct gun since heads were stripping out after not being moved for 12 years!
 

awg

Guru
All,
I'm new to this forum as I just purchased a 2010 Big Dog Bulldog. 1819 S&S with S&S ECM
Bike only has 3000 miles on it. Ran fine at the dealer. I got 15 miles on it and check engine light came on then off again.
After the bike sitting for a few days in the garage I tried to start it again, and it doesn't want to idle at all. Then after a few tries to restart it will not stay running unless I feather the throttle and then it usually backfires through the throttle body and then dies.
It did have a code in it which I did clear using the protune software from S&S. It was saying an issue with the O2 sensor.
I have not replaced the O2 sensors as of yet as I am not certain that is the problem and the cheapest O2 is about 120.00 that I can find
(Is there aftermarket ones anyone would know about or a site to check to see if cheaper if possible. Again I am not against buying the expensive ones I would just like to know if other options are available. A part number would be great as well.) I did take both O2 sensors out and clean them thoroughly and tried to start it again with the same result.
Has anyone run into this issue with the o2 sensor? If so any suggestions would be helpful.
I also changed out the plugs after the issue happened just to rule out something simple.

Also one thing to note I did get the "Low RPM" reading on the tach once or twice at a stop light. I do know I have to adjust the idle on it.

Again I'm new here and any thoughts are welcome.
Where did you buy it from?
 

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
Just pull my fuel rail off to clean my injectors -- What idiot engineer use straight 10-32 screw on the rail -- not going to be straight screwdriver screws when it goes back together that's for sure.
Cleaned the injectors then while reinstalling them in the rail pushed a little hard on one and the bottom cracked by the o-ring -- waiting on new ones right now.

I want a new rule -- every engineer has to repair in the field everything they design to make sure nothing STUPID is done! The only 2 screws (vs bolts) holding things -- had to take the tank off to use 1/4 imapct gun since heads were stripping out after not being moved for 12 years!
I feel ya. I replaced the flat blade screw(wtf) with an Allen so you can use a ball end Allen wrench.

By all means lube both orings and do not force into position. Use a rocking motion as you install and watch they don’t “squirt “ out as you insert.

The good news is you can by them at the hardware store.
 

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
New VFI, new injectors, new Air temp Sensor, new Fuel Pump, New Spark Plugs, New Wires which I still need to install tomorrow, new O2 sensors, New fuel pressure regulator, New hoses, heck what else is there??? oh throttle position sensor. All done at same time, got it back still had a check engine light.
Guess what it was....intake gasket leak.....
Point to the story.....
Don't be like me....lol
Next 585 cam.....just to see if that fixes it. lol
Or at least that is what I'm telling my Girlfriend.
Oh my yes please don’t do this. Lol

Good news is it’s all new now !
 

Cruz Dog

Active Member
I messed with the idle screw and it’s a pain I haven’t figured how to fine tune it yet. Don’t mess with it. Check your throttle cables they might be getting stuck.
 

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
I messed with the idle screw and it’s a pain I haven’t figured how to fine tune it yet. Don’t mess with it. Check your throttle cables they might be getting stuck.
Ya don’t do that either

idle is controlled through the IAC stepper motor.
 

WoMbaT[DA]

New Member
New VFI, new injectors, new Air temp Sensor, new Fuel Pump, New Spark Plugs, New Wires which I still need to install tomorrow, new O2 sensors, New fuel pressure regulator, New hoses, heck what else is there??? oh throttle position sensor. All done at same time, got it back still had a check engine light.
Guess what it was....intake gasket leak.....
Point to the story.....
Don't be like me....lol
Next 585 cam.....just to see if that fixes it. lol
Or at least that is what I'm telling my Girlfriend.
LOL!!! I almost fell off my chair after reading this

"Next 585 cam.....just to see if that fixes it. lol
Or at least that is what I'm telling my Girlfriend. "

I like your style BROTHER !!

Getting in this Forum is the best thing I ever did !
 

WoMbaT[DA]

New Member
Unless the fault is active, I would not replace the O2 sensors. They are very robust standard sensors and highly unlikely to fail.

Secondly, if you have are having issues at idle, it can’t be the O2 because these bikes run open loop at idle.

Many of the EFI bikes mine included had issues with fuel systems, with debris in the injectors from the tank etc. You have a 10 year old bike with 3000 miles. That’s a lot of sitting around with or without fuel. The hoses get rotten etc.

If you are having to give it throttle to keep running that’s a sign it’s not getting enough fuel.

If it were mine I would clean it all out top to bottom including the injectors. If you capable of removing them you can remove and clean or replace the screens and activate them with a 9v battery to flow cleaner through them

Don’t just start throwing expensive parts at the bike.
Where did you buy it from?
Jamies Customs in Big Bend Wisconsin
 

awg

Guru
Jamies Customs in Big Bend Wisconsin
Did you buy the orange or red one? I bought a 07 Mastiff from them. Same collector you bought your bagger. Since mine had under 1,000 miles on it, like you, I had to fix a few things also, since it sat alot. But it was in excellent condition. Good luck with the repairs. Both of those baggers they had were excellent!
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
All done at same time, got it back still had a check engine light.
Guess what it was....intake gasket leak...
So does the 02 read at idle? I guess yes because it threw a code. Code is caused by 3 simple moves... say you forgot to connect the connectors and they are hanging apart. Say a wire is hanging out of the connector on one side of the jobber's connector or the main harness. And the last variable is a short or ding-ding-ding... Jobber out of spec.

... it can’t be the O2 because these bikes run open loop at idle
Either the 02 reads a manifold leak and sees it is too lean and the 02 sets the code being out of spec, it can read a lean, yes or no?

So are we down to two variables? Either the leak tells the 02 to match lean to rich, or the 02 is out of spec and throws a code. However, there is no lean and we rule that out. If say the 02 is 'out of spec' it can't be the connectors not connected, or wires out of connector.

Black box coverts to Alpha, better known as 'limp/fail-safe/backup/Huston we have a problem'. The processor uses a formula and that is the alpha, better known as 101.3/1 atm/760mmHg/14.7psi. Black box reads the same digital number as the input. That means it's a digital out is the fail-safe. No codes means, analog in, or many. Digital means one. So in goes the digital number is Alpha = 14.7 is the binary read.

WATT does it all mean? It's how to determine if you have a good known part and check specs against the book's vaules, not throw parts at it. This is how you determine a computer part or said jobber that is in code:
1. Are we connected? Yes = No code.
2. Is a wire out of the connector ends? No No code.
3. Is it out of spec or shorted to ground is the jobber (a sensor). Yes = codes.

_______________________________________________________

If the bike takes off like a rocket, it means the injectors are not dirty. It means the fuel pump is fine too. If it loads up with an 02 code, it might go rich [safe], meaning, better to cool it off rich than heat it up lean. So say the backup on an 02 code is rich the bitch...

Only a fresh set of plugs knows for sure.
 
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