Clutch adjustment
- Thread starter Parikh
- Start date
TapioK
Well-Known Member
I have never even seen Ultima setup but looking at this picture it would look like it is adjusted from the clutch side
Clutch side. Sit on the bike. When we speak right and left, these are the sides. So a cable end is hooked internally behind that right side cover so it's not there. On the left side is to pull the moon cover off and look there. Here are the quick look and adjust movements.
Visual:
Wave plate: Steel spring washer goes into static memory as a cone shape. The newer the plates, the flatter the wave plate. The more wear, the more the wave washer begins to form a cone shape. No matter the adjust, this [cone shape] will not break the plates will drag, cause creep, will be hard to find N, and significant gear grind will be the normal variables to look for after the adjustment... too far cone'd. Replace all plates.
Aluminum pressure plate: This a machined flat disc and has no metal movement. When the plates wear, the aluminum pressure plate sinks deeper into the big clutch outer. This moves the center set screw out farther and you now have aluminum threads showing behind the plate and more chance to strip the rest of the threads out and render the pressure plate useless. This is a sign of excessive wear at all the clutch plates. Change as a set. Rub both hands together... which hand remained cold... so there is this rubbing wear at all plate sides.
Cable Loose: Run the center adjust tube [call it] where you hide the threads inside the cable adjuster. Pull clutch lever once. This might pull in both outer cable ends into the adjuster tube for the most slack to the inner cable. At the pressure plate, take a socket and ratchet wrench and break the nut loose. Run the nut out by hand some. Take the screwdriver and run the center screw in so it stops pushing the ramp down to home and butts up to the push rod to a zero clearance. Back the screw out again and try to find where you just kiss the clearance to zero. Then back the screw out a little past a 1/4 turn out and hold it there. Run the lock nut back up against the pressure plate by hand, and really hand tight that puppy. Right now no screw movement was lost as you tightened the nut by hand or with an open end wrench. Why you went a little past 1/4 turn was to pick up the ratchet wrench and tighten the nut the rest of the way by palming the end of the ratchet. Let the basket move backwards, just keep a palm slamming on that nut. If the screw moves, it lands at a 1/4 out give or take. That nut is going nowhere where you have to lock the basket and torque to spec? Hand palming is tight enough and has less stress at the aluminum threads sans [proper torque].
Outer Cable Tightness: Run the center tube back out so you have zero lever pull at the perch. Zero means your pinky has to pull the lever so there is zero gap that way. However, you'll have a gap by increased hand pull before you take up all the slack. Then pull the lever to the grip and spin the pressure plate by hand. If you can move the pressure plate you are sure to find N without a problem. Replace moon cover, tighten center tube lock nuts. Test ride.
Hand Test:
1. For sure it shows no creep at the static pull.
2. It shows plates are not sticking at the static pull.
3. For sure it snicks into N like it was new.
Visual:
Wave plate: Steel spring washer goes into static memory as a cone shape. The newer the plates, the flatter the wave plate. The more wear, the more the wave washer begins to form a cone shape. No matter the adjust, this [cone shape] will not break the plates will drag, cause creep, will be hard to find N, and significant gear grind will be the normal variables to look for after the adjustment... too far cone'd. Replace all plates.
Aluminum pressure plate: This a machined flat disc and has no metal movement. When the plates wear, the aluminum pressure plate sinks deeper into the big clutch outer. This moves the center set screw out farther and you now have aluminum threads showing behind the plate and more chance to strip the rest of the threads out and render the pressure plate useless. This is a sign of excessive wear at all the clutch plates. Change as a set. Rub both hands together... which hand remained cold... so there is this rubbing wear at all plate sides.
Cable Loose: Run the center adjust tube [call it] where you hide the threads inside the cable adjuster. Pull clutch lever once. This might pull in both outer cable ends into the adjuster tube for the most slack to the inner cable. At the pressure plate, take a socket and ratchet wrench and break the nut loose. Run the nut out by hand some. Take the screwdriver and run the center screw in so it stops pushing the ramp down to home and butts up to the push rod to a zero clearance. Back the screw out again and try to find where you just kiss the clearance to zero. Then back the screw out a little past a 1/4 turn out and hold it there. Run the lock nut back up against the pressure plate by hand, and really hand tight that puppy. Right now no screw movement was lost as you tightened the nut by hand or with an open end wrench. Why you went a little past 1/4 turn was to pick up the ratchet wrench and tighten the nut the rest of the way by palming the end of the ratchet. Let the basket move backwards, just keep a palm slamming on that nut. If the screw moves, it lands at a 1/4 out give or take. That nut is going nowhere where you have to lock the basket and torque to spec? Hand palming is tight enough and has less stress at the aluminum threads sans [proper torque].
Outer Cable Tightness: Run the center tube back out so you have zero lever pull at the perch. Zero means your pinky has to pull the lever so there is zero gap that way. However, you'll have a gap by increased hand pull before you take up all the slack. Then pull the lever to the grip and spin the pressure plate by hand. If you can move the pressure plate you are sure to find N without a problem. Replace moon cover, tighten center tube lock nuts. Test ride.
Hand Test:
1. For sure it shows no creep at the static pull.
2. It shows plates are not sticking at the static pull.
3. For sure it snicks into N like it was new.