EFI Malfunction Light

[Postmaster]

My last thread asked if anyone had info as to what could cause the EFI Light to go on and also when it was on, the bike ran rough. I found out that a dead cell in my battery was the cause. The battery gave out and I replaced it and low and behold the EFI problem was solved. My mechanic informed me that if there is not enough charge in the battery, certain electronics start to fail. Hope this helps others that are experiencing the same symptoms.

 

[Th3InfamousI]

That makes sense, hell it happens on cars. I know a bad cell in the battery has caused even my 99 dodge ram to shut down driving down the highway, that just happened a few years back. Put a new battery and it's been trouble free for 2 years, otherwise truck runs great for it's age!

 

[Postmaster]

Sounds like it is a common thing to happen. What threw me off was that it was reading 13 volts but when you put a load on it, it would not turn the starter. Put a new battery in and all is fine.

 

[Sven]

... when it was on, the bike ran rough.... certain electronics start to fail.

Not necessarily fails but goes something like this. Black box speaks in 1's and 0's; known as the binary system. The hard parts in the black box work at a little under 5v. The chip in the box converts 12v to 5v and the black box works off that voltage range on down to 0.9v. So when the battery takes a shit, there is STILL A Balance of volts in the calc, but not at the preset of 5v. Still, the hard parts in the black box can calculate the final fuel ratio; binary wise. It's a complex checks and rechecks in the balance of the calc. However, the causing of the rough running was that "the best calc'd number" was the output number, as the chip loses even more volts from the ideal 5v.

So the 'best number' in the balance of the lower voltage gave you that rough running. That's more or less the basic move(s) in the black box is how I understand why it runs like shit with low battery voltage. Make sense?