Disconnect battery before putting it on tender?

[LHS]

I have two of these Deltran 4 bank battery tenders one of them I use for my 4 motorcycles. The other one I use for my two boat batteries/my camper battery/my lawnmower . I have used them for years and never had an issue. The one picture is the cable that stays on the motorcycle hooked up to the battery and I just plug it in when I’m gonna leave the bike sit more than a couple weeks or over the winter time. The camper battery is the only one that I remove so it is the only one that doesn’t have the permanent attach cable only because the camper is left sitting outside and I remove the battery and bring it into the shop.

 

[Pete F]

I have two of these Deltran 4 bank battery tenders one of them I use for my 4 motorcycles. The other one I use for my two boat batteries/my camper battery/my lawnmower . I have used them for years and never had an issue. The one picture is the cable that stays on the motorcycle hooked up to the battery and I just plug it in when I’m gonna leave the bike sit more than a couple weeks or over the winter time. The camper battery is the only one that I remove so it is the only one that doesn’t have the permanent attach cable only because the camper is left sitting outside and I remove the battery and bring it into the shop.View attachment 68010View attachment 68008

Yup, have the same thing for my boat batteries and my antique cars. Also have a dual bank for our two Indians and all works fine for them...just have heard many mixed reviews on "The Dogs". Not sure what yet to do!

 

[Pete F]

I have two of these Deltran 4 bank battery tenders one of them I use for my 4 motorcycles. The other one I use for my two boat batteries/my camper battery/my lawnmower . I have used them for years and never had an issue. The one picture is the cable that stays on the motorcycle hooked up to the battery and I just plug it in when I’m gonna leave the bike sit more than a couple weeks or over the winter time. The camper battery is the only one that I remove so it is the only one that doesn’t have the permanent attach cable only because the camper is left sitting outside and I remove the battery and bring it into the shop.View attachment 68010View attachment 68008

Like your oil temp gauge...anywhere they still available?

 

[HMAN]

Like your oil temp gauge...anywhere they still available?

 

[Pete F]

View attachment 68027

Thank you!!!

 

[LHS]

HMAN nailed it on the temp gauge that’s where I got mine.
As for the battery tender some people like them some people don’t.
I’ve been using them for years on my other bikes with no issues.
I’ve been using it on my 2009 ridgeback coming up on two years now and no issues.

 

[Pete F]

HMAN nailed it on the temp gauge that’s where I got mine.
As for the battery tender some people like them some people don’t.
I’ve been using them for years on my other bikes with no issues.
I’ve been using it on my 2009 ridgeback coming up on two years now and no issues.

Thanks for the input, thinking about putting a cut off switch on the +/- leads so when I plug it in I won't have to disconnect leads from battery?!

 

[LHS]

This is what I have on all of mine Picture #1 I don’t disconnect anything except for the lead cable That goes from that to the charger. If you got the Deltron charger like mine it should’ve came with four of those hardwire in type and also four of the Alligator clip style like the # 2 picture. If you didn’t get them you should be able to pick them up at your local tractor supply store or Farm&fleet or your local automotive store. If you can’t find them there they’re all over eBay. But yeah you shouldn’t have to disconnect your hard wired in Type from your battery just plug it in when you gonna leave it sit unplug it And put the weather cap on-when you’re ready to go.

 

[Pete F]

When you say you only dis-connect lead cable...are you meaning heavy red cable from battery to starter? I am guessing the 10ga wire? I have 2 other power leads coming to positive side, probably 16ga. Thanks in advance for clarifying for me!

 

[LHS]

No I mean the cable that comes from the Deltron charger that plugs into the hardwired in cable in picture #1 of the post above

 

[Pete F]

No I mean the cable that comes from the Deltron charger that plugs into the hardwired in cable in picture #1 of the post above

Thank you!

 

[Pete F]

Thank you!

So basically you are saying you have NO electrical/battery problems? What year make and model is your "Dog"? EFI or Carb? Sorry for all the questions but making sure I am not gonna screw up anythuing. I have been told certain years have issues with chargers. Mine is a 2007 K9, Carb.

 

[LHS]

2009 Ridgeback 117 super G carb
No electrical issues at all.
No reason to be sorry about asking questions.
I am definitely far from an expert on these dogs.
There is a big gathering Of big dog owners and riders going on this week and weekend in Arkansas so a lot of the guys that are experts are not on right now. But if you hang in there all your questions will be answered.

 

[Pete F]

2009 Ridgeback 117 super G carb
No electrical issues at all.
No reason to be sorry about asking questions.
I am definitely far from an expert on these dogs.
There is a big gathering Of big dog owners and riders going on this week and weekend in Arkansas so a lot of the guys that are experts are not on right now. But if you hang in there all your questions will be answered.

Thank you!

 

[Sven]

Batt loses 1% charge each day. Let it sit a month, 30% down is the batt. I want to check my charger's output. I walk up to the battery with a volt meter, read the number. For argument sake, say it's 12.3v. I hook up the charger, read the battery again. It now reads 14v+ so I walk away for half the day. Or say I wake up, go out and check the battery with the charger on overnight. I should read 13.+v for argument sake. I pull the plug on the charger and read the battery's volts a half hour later. The batt now reads 12.8v. For argument sake, that's the ideal static number. To test if the charger is running smart, draw the battery down in voltage. I now hook a high beam light across the battery posts and draw the batt down. This took about a minute of draw. I hook the charger back on and see if the charger is over 14v+. I wake up the next day and see if the smart moved the voltage down below 13-14v for argument sake.

This shows me the charger turns smart and cuts the charge down. This also shows me the draw is being addressed by the 14v range kicking back on.

Option:
I want a charger rated around 1.5a. This is not a smart charger, but a preset 1.5a output. Theory goes like this:
1. I buy a 12N12a battery. I move the decimal point to the right one time to see what rated charger I am looking for.
2. I buy a 12N14a battery. Move the point over, I want at least a 1.4a charger. I cannot use my 1.2a charger and have .2v down.
3. I charge the battery by its rating. So, I would charge a 1.2a battery for 12 hours [literally] before putting it into service.
4. I charge the higher amp rated battery at 1.4a for 14 hours.
5. I can charge a 12a battery with a higher rated charger, but math wise, I cut the hours down some.
6. I cannot charge a high amp batt with a low amp charger. That extra .2v will never be at full charge.


Verify:
If my bike is a parasitic system and I want to find out, I remove the ground cable off the battery. I then touch the ground strap to the batt post I just removed. If it sparks and arc, it's parasitic as in; keeps the clock timed, has to calc memory with a relay kind of electronics. No arc, no [parasitic] draining the battery down.

Another d-runk-inn post, dipping the pen into a bud light, budd and lite; you pick.

 

[LHS]

Batt loses 1% charge each day. Let it sit a month, 30% down is the batt. I want to check my charger's output. I walk up to the battery with a volt meter, read the number. For argument sake, say it's 12.3v. I hook up the charger, read the battery again. It now reads 14v+ so I walk away for half the day. Or say I wake up, go out and check the battery with the charger on overnight. I should read 13.+v for argument sake. I pull the plug on the charger and read the battery's volts a half hour later. The batt now reads 12.8v. For argument sake, that's the ideal static number. To test if the charger is running smart, draw the battery down in voltage. I now hook a high beam light across the battery posts and draw the batt down. This took about a minute of draw. I hook the charger back on and see if the charger is over 14v+. I wake up the next day and see if the smart moved the voltage down below 13-14v for argument sake.

This shows me the charger turns smart and cuts the charge down. This also shows me the draw is being addressed by the 14v range kicking back on.

Option:
I want a charger rated around 1.5a. This is not a smart charger, but a preset 1.5a output. Theory goes like this:
1. I buy a 12N12a battery. I move the decimal point to the right one time to see what rated charger I am looking for.
2. I buy a 12N14a battery. Move the point over, I want at least a 1.4a charger. I cannot use my 1.2a charger and have .2v down.
3. I charge the battery by its rating. So, I would charge a 1.2a battery for 12 hours [literally] before putting it into service.
4. I charge the higher amp rated battery at 1.4a for 14 hours.
5. I can charge a 12a battery with a higher rated charger, but math wise, I cut the hours down some.
6. I cannot charge a high amp batt with a low amp charger. That extra .2v will never be at full charge.


Verify:
If my bike is a parasitic system and I want to find out, I remove the ground cable off the battery. I then touch the ground strap to the batt post I just removed. If it sparks and arc, it's parasitic as in; keeps the clock timed, has to calc memory with a relay kind of electronics. No arc, no [parasitic] draining the battery down.

Another d-runk-inn post, dipping the pen into a bud light, budd and lite; you pick.

Another d-runk-inn post, dipping the pen into a bud light, budd and lite; you pick.
NOW THAT’S FUNNY

 

[Ernie12]

Check into PluseTech for a battery maintainer. Read the site and you will learn a lot about maintainers. I have been using them for about ten years now with great success. Then search around and you can find them cheaper.

Collections

PulseTech

www.pulsetech.net

 

[Pete F]

Batt loses 1% charge each day. Let it sit a month, 30% down is the batt. I want to check my charger's output. I walk up to the battery with a volt meter, read the number. For argument sake, say it's 12.3v. I hook up the charger, read the battery again. It now reads 14v+ so I walk away for half the day. Or say I wake up, go out and check the battery with the charger on overnight. I should read 13.+v for argument sake. I pull the plug on the charger and read the battery's volts a half hour later. The batt now reads 12.8v. For argument sake, that's the ideal static number. To test if the charger is running smart, draw the battery down in voltage. I now hook a high beam light across the battery posts and draw the batt down. This took about a minute of draw. I hook the charger back on and see if the charger is over 14v+. I wake up the next day and see if the smart moved the voltage down below 13-14v for argument sake.

This shows me the charger turns smart and cuts the charge down. This also shows me the draw is being addressed by the 14v range kicking back on.

Option:
I want a charger rated around 1.5a. This is not a smart charger, but a preset 1.5a output. Theory goes like this:
1. I buy a 12N12a battery. I move the decimal point to the right one time to see what rated charger I am looking for.
2. I buy a 12N14a battery. Move the point over, I want at least a 1.4a charger. I cannot use my 1.2a charger and have .2v down.
3. I charge the battery by its rating. So, I would charge a 1.2a battery for 12 hours [literally] before putting it into service.
4. I charge the higher amp rated battery at 1.4a for 14 hours.
5. I can charge a 12a battery with a higher rated charger, but math wise, I cut the hours down some.
6. I cannot charge a high amp batt with a low amp charger. That extra .2v will never be at full charge.


Verify:
If my bike is a parasitic system and I want to find out, I remove the ground cable off the battery. I then touch the ground strap to the batt post I just removed. If it sparks and arc, it's parasitic as in; keeps the clock timed, has to calc memory with a relay kind of electronics. No arc, no [parasitic] draining the battery down.

Another d-runk-inn post, dipping the pen into a bud light, budd and lite; you pick.

Thank you, a great lesson in battery maintainers!

 

[Pete F]

Check into PluseTech for a battery maintainer. Read the site and you will learn a lot about maintainers. I have been using them for about ten years now with great success. Then search around and you can find them cheaper.

Collections

PulseTech

www.pulsetech.net

Thank you!