Taking a serious look at this 05 chopper, what are the issues?

MossBerg590

Active Member
If you buy it and are worried, I would buy Axles unit. Assuming the wires itself arent chafed, it will plug right into the existing harness so no need to pull the wires through the frame
 

No H2O

Active Member
I'd like to keep the stock electrical until it goes bad as long as going bad doesn't entail shutting down in mid ride.
My 04 ridge would shut off in mid ride
 

awg

Guru
I agree with MossBerg500. If it is indeed the stock wiring harness, then buy Axles EHC. Don't get any easier than that to install.
 

No H2O

Active Member
Girls at bars didn't have any interest in me ...



Until I rolled up on my Big Dog!

2005BDMchopper-FriendlyReliable.jpg

2005BDMchopper5D4_4164-1275.jpg

So I bought the bike, been riding it daily to work, and no issues, but I do have the following questions/confirmations:

- Proper way to check oil is bike cold, on kickstand, oil should be at the bottom of the fill tube?

- Proper tire pressure is 36 psi?

- How can I tell when the TP headers are about to break?

- The S&S 107 in the 04 Ridgeback (although less displacement) seemed to have more instant power, I thought maybe the Chopper is that much heavier but according to NADA there's only a 22 lb diff (653 lbs vs 631 lbs)

- For those who have S&S 117s with TP headers, how many RPMs do you typically run at?

- I've seen the spike air cleaner pointing to the front, like mine, and also pointing upwards. Is there any difference in function or can it point either way, it's just aesthetics?
 

No H2O

Active Member
- Proper way to check oil is bike cold, on kickstand, oil should be at the bottom of the fill tube?

- Proper tire pressure is 36 psi?

- For those who have S&S 117s with TP headers, how many RPMs do you typically run at?
BDM says for a 2005 Chopper;

- check the oil when warm, bike should be upright, oil level should be bottom of the fill hole at the 90 degree bend

- recommended tire pressure is 40psi in the front and 42 psi in the rear

- ideal RPMs are in the 2500 - 3000 range

No opinions/advice were offered regarding signs that the TP rocker boxes are going bad or the direction the spike air cleaner should be pointing
 

Kikrox

Member
Awesome bike... recommend replace ech with rip kit...well worth it..did it to mine...no problems and added gps,alarm and led lighting accessories...still no electrical issues...
 

No H2O

Active Member
Awesome bike... recommend replace ech with rip kit
my plan of action would be to wait until the battery needs to be replaced and then do the battery and the VR at the same time and then when the electronics start going bad I'd either do the Axel EHC or if it's more than just the EHC, like other wiring, then I'd do the RIP kit
 

john sachs

Well-Known Member
Girls at bars didn't have any interest in me ...



Until I rolled up on my Big Dog!

View attachment 67638

View attachment 67639

So I bought the bike, been riding it daily to work, and no issues, but I do have the following questions/confirmations:

- Proper way to check oil is bike cold, on kickstand, oil should be at the bottom of the fill tube?

- Proper tire pressure is 36 psi?

- How can I tell when the TP headers are about to break?

- The S&S 107 in the 04 Ridgeback (although less displacement) seemed to have more instant power, I thought maybe the Chopper is that much heavier but according to NADA there's only a 22 lb diff (653 lbs vs 631 lbs)

- For those who have S&S 117s with TP headers, how many RPMs do you typically run at?

- I've seen the spike air cleaner pointing to the front, like mine, and also pointing upwards. Is there any difference in function or can it point either way, it's just aesthetics?
If your Dog has a TP engine, with TP heads and rockers, you have NOTHING to worry about. The 4" bore S&S engines are different geometry wise than the 4 1/8" bore S&S engines., and should be ok with the TP top end. General service, keep it tuned well, don't beat the shit out of it, and you'll be good to go. FWIW that air cleaner is a power killer no matter how you point it. Sell it to your worst enemy, and put a decent air cleaner on the bike. You'll pick up a ton of power, and will have to jet richer.
I like that color combo.
John
 

No H2O

Active Member
If your Dog has a TP engine, with TP heads and rockers, you have NOTHING to worry about. The 4" bore S&S engines are different geometry wise than the 4 1/8" bore S&S engines., and should be ok with the TP top end. General service, keep it tuned well, don't beat the shit out of it, and you'll be good to go. FWIW that air cleaner is a power killer no matter how you point it. Sell it to your worst enemy, and put a decent air cleaner on the bike. You'll pick up a ton of power, and will have to jet richer.
I like that color combo.
John
Mine's an s&s engine but how do I know if it's a 4" bore that will work with the tp top end or a 4 1/8" bore that won't?
I have the stock air cleaner that imo doesn't look as good but I can throw it on to see how noticeable the difference in performance is, question is whether I need to do any adjustmentsto the carb when I change the air cleaner back to stock?
 

SEAL-rider

Active Member
I have s&s 117...shift rpm under 2000 cruising rpm around 1200-1500
Unfortunately hat is lugging the engine. These engines perform better above 3000 and higher RPMs are much easier on the bottom end. Also the bike just runs better, snappier throttle, smoother and better for everything. I don't know where the myth of running a V-Twin below 2000 RPM came from but it not correct. Don't be surprised if you snap a shaft with a 1500 rpm roll-on in 6th gear.
 

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member
Unfortunately hat is lugging the engine. These engines perform better above 3000 and higher RPMs are much easier on the bottom end. Also the bike just runs better, snappier throttle, smoother and better for everything. I don't know where the myth of running a V-Twin below 2000 RPM came from but it not correct. Don't be surprised if you snap a shaft with a 1500 rpm roll-on in 6th gear.
From the S&S owners manual.....

"S&Sv-twin performance engines are designed for, and happiest when running between 2750-3500 at normal highway speeds."
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Think 12 speed bicycle in 12th gear going up a 30% grade at 10 mph. You will have a visit with an orthopedic surgeon in your future.
If you can do a 30% grade at 10mph in 12gear I'd be impressed as hell - and you'd have a new career
Pro Cyclists WALK 27% grade! https://www.wired.com/2013/03/whats-the-steepest-gradient-for-a-road-bike/

Back in the day I did a 13% grade in VA on a charity ride (1st gear doing switchbacks on the road) and I can tell you most of the 170 people PUSHED their bikes up that hill. The truck filming us you could hear straining when it came up behind you.
 

SEAL-rider

Active Member
If you can do a 30% grade at 10mph in 12gear I'd be impressed as hell - and you'd have a new career
Pro Cyclists WALK 27% grade! https://www.wired.com/2013/03/whats-the-steepest-gradient-for-a-road-bike/

Back in the day I did a 13% grade in VA on a charity ride (1st gear doing switchbacks on the road) and I can tell you most of the 170 people PUSHED their bikes up that hill. The truck filming us you could hear straining when it came up behind you.
This was an analogy to visualize the stress on connecting rod bearings (knees) from low rpm. No one could do a 30% grade at 10mph in a big gear. My intent was to illustrate the fallacy of trying to ride V-Twin motorcycle below 2000 rpm. Based on this reply I failed miserably.
 

speedball jr.

Active Member
Unfortunately hat is lugging the engine. These engines perform better above 3000 and higher RPMs are much easier on the bottom end. Also the bike just runs better, snappier throttle, smoother and better for everything. I don't know where the myth of running a V-Twin below 2000 RPM came from but it not correct. Don't be surprised if you snap a shaft with a 1500 rpm roll-on in 6th gear.
Who does that?
 
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