06 K9 Shutting down

Energy One
M

MrCube

New Member
Long story short;

Already replaced EHC, Stator, V/R, and battery

Problem changed a bit as now it will start right back up and the battery is not discharged. Tach flashing and shutting down if not idling at 1k then while driving the tach wont show over 1K no matter what the true RPMs are. The bike will just cut off, doesn't seem to matter if I am cruising at 40, accelerating getting ready to change gears, or coming to a stop. Just shuts off. Will start right back up but can't get more than 1 mile on the road. Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks, BC

Also, I did turn the idle up after the first time the tach falshed after start but it doesnt seem to make any difference and it is idling quite high now.
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
MrCube said:
Long story short;

Already replaced EHC, Stator, V/R, and battery

Problem changed a bit as now it will start right back up and the battery is not discharged. Tach flashing and shutting down if not idling at 1k then while driving the tach wont show over 1K no matter what the true RPMs are. The bike will just cut off, doesn't seem to matter if I am cruising at 40, accelerating getting ready to change gears, or coming to a stop. Just shuts off. Will start right back up but can't get more than 1 mile on the road. Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks, BC

Also, I did turn the idle up after the first time the tach falshed after start but it doesnt seem to make any difference and it is idling quite high now.
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Should remove and make sure the crank sensor is clean and if still no good replace the crank position sensor. That sensor reads off RPM to send signal to the ignition module and the tach. If it's faulty all the issues you have would be expected.

If that doesn't fix it, the tach ring may have a short and be at fault. However the crank position sensor is a cheaper place to start and unfortunately no real way to test either of those parts.

Also why did you replace the other parts? Did you have a voltage issue? Other thing is it could be the ignition module is no good either.

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M

MrCube

New Member
Awesome, makes sense I will get on those and keep everyone posted. Yes I had a shutdown issue related to the EHC and then the stator started draining the battery super fast this all went down one after another over the last 3 months
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
MrCube said:
Awesome, makes sense I will get on those and keep everyone posted. Yes I had a shutdown issue related to the EHC and then the stator started draining the battery super fast this all went down one after another over the last 3 months
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Stator started draining the battery? Can you explain that one?

Or was the stator simply not charging the battery?



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M

MrCube

New Member
Yes that. Sorry, I am not smart on the electrical system at all. I was getting stranded because the battery was not being charged by the stator which I interpreted as the stator draining the battery. Thanks for the correction
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
MrCube said:
Yes that. Sorry, I am not smart on the electrical system at all. I was getting stranded because the battery was not being charged by the stator which I interpreted as the stator draining the battery. Thanks for the correction
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Not worries, just wanted to make sure!

When dealing with electrical issues it's challenging over the phone or online, so the more clear the information the better!

Also, while it shouldn't matter on the issue you are having what replacement EHC kit did you go with?

As I mentioned remove and clean the crank sensor, it's a magnet so can get some build up then see what happens.

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M

MrCube

New Member
Brilliant, I owe you a beer, or 6. I noticed when I replaced the stator that the previous owner had never changed the oil in the primary. It was so nasty, I am sure that the sensor got gunked up that way. He also used synthetic which was causing the transmission to slip. Or so I have read, no problems with that since the oil change either. I just rode 3 whole miles with no issues. I am back on the road. Muchos Gracias
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
MrCube said:
Brilliant, I owe you a beer, or 6. I noticed when I replaced the stator that the previous owner had never changed the oil in the primary. It was so nasty, I am sure that the sensor got gunked up that way. He also used synthetic which was causing the transmission to slip. Or so I have read, no problems with that since the oil change either. I just rode 3 whole miles with no issues. I am back on the road. Muchos Gracias
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Well, I hope that was the problem! So tach reads above 1k now?


Glad you got 3 miles is that the farthest you been able to go?

Put a few more on before we call it a day! Haha

Did you just get this bike? So this issue was really from the start?

Yea, synthetic in primary is no good. It will work for a while but eventually will start to slip, and also probably wear out the frictions much faster than regular oil. Glad you got that sorted! If it had synthetic, once you get a hundred miles on the bike, I would recommend just changing the primary oil again to help flush out that crap. Primary oil is cheap!

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M

MrCube

New Member
Th3InfamousI said:
Well, I hope that was the problem! So tach reads above 1k now?


Glad you got 3 miles is that the farthest you been able to go?

Put a few more on before we call it a day! Haha

Did you just get this bike? So this issue was really from the start?

Yea, synthetic in primary is no good. It will work for a while but eventually will start to slip, and also probably wear out the frictions much faster than regular oil. Glad you got that sorted! If it had synthetic, once you get a hundred miles on the bike, I would recommend just changing the primary oil again to help flush out that crap. Primary oil is cheap!

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HA. did 23 miles out, it sat 5 hours and did 23 miles back.

RPM never read higher than 1500 and Tach flashed anytime it went below 1k. weird. sounds a little different and I have to open the throttle more than I used to in order to get the same acceleration. Just what I noticed. No problem starting and no shut down so those are the good notes.

I bought it a year ago. put 4k miles on it with intermittent trouble including a long time sorting out the ehc issue. It just would decide not to start randomly and give me flashers after turning the key. then an hour later or two days later it would just crank right up. I tried every trick from everyone and then swapped the ehc and never had that issue again.
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
MrCube said:
HA. did 23 miles out, it sat 5 hours and did 23 miles back.

RPM never read higher than 1500 and Tach flashed anytime it went below 1k. weird. sounds a little different and I have to open the throttle more than I used to in order to get the same acceleration. Just what I noticed. No problem starting and no shut down so those are the good notes.

I bought it a year ago. put 4k miles on it with intermittent trouble including a long time sorting out the ehc issue. It just would decide not to start randomly and give me flashers after turning the key. then an hour later or two days later it would just crank right up. I tried every trick from everyone and then swapped the ehc and never had that issue again.
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So tach still not reading over 1500? The flashing under 1k makes sense, its supposed to do that if it's idling low.

Regarding the acceleration, sounds like its just a carb adjustment you might have to just put everything back to what S&S recommends to start and adjust accordingly.

Carb Quick Guide | S&S Cycle

www.sscycle.com www.sscycle.com


Start there and see if that clears up the tach issues. At least it's moving now! But still looks like gotta sort through the rest!
 
M

MrCube

New Member
Put the settings back to the default in the manual and rode again. Still seems to idle too high and take more throttle to get the response.
No shutdown in over 100 miles now
Tach still not telling the truth nothing over 1500RPM
Small oil leak all of the sudden not from the primary, instead its dead center a couple inches in front of the rear tire. I haven't located it yet obviously just thought I would update
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
MrCube said:
Put the settings back to the default in the manual and rode again. Still seems to idle too high and take more throttle to get the response.
No shutdown in over 100 miles now
Tach still not telling the truth nothing over 1500RPM
Small oil leak all of the sudden not from the primary, instead its dead center a couple inches in front of the rear tire. I haven't located it yet obviously just thought I would update
Click to expand...
100 miles is a start! Trending in the right direction! I guess we'll have to work more so I can earn a full case of beer? Haha.

Okay.. just to confirm after you adjusted carb back to default and started it you adjusted it again like normal? after you did the initial startup while bike was running, correct? Just want to make sure.

Considering your having issues here, I suggest focus on fixing this first, get the bike running like aces then tackle the tach. One step at a time is always simplest.

Can you upload a video of the bike running? I'm curious to hear this high idle, and throttle response. Could be an intake or exhaust leak.

Don't forget, now you got 100+ miles change that primary oil again to flush out any remaining crap and cross if off the list.





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