Erratic behavior in right rear turn signal/running light

Energy One

No H2O

Active Member
When I turn the bike on, the left rear running light is on but the right rear running light will only come on about 30% of the time.
Both turn signals work consistently.
a) Is this a stock assembly?
b) Is it the assembly that's bad or an electrical issue that needs to be chased down?

Hopefully someone else has run into this as well.
 

Attachments

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member
Check the connection under ur seat that runs to your rear lights. Also ck the wires under the fender. Maybe a wire has rubbed thru? Both common issues.
 

bigkelk9

Well-Known Member
Check the connection under ur seat that runs to your rear lights. Also ck the wires under the fender. Maybe a wire has rubbed thru? Both common issues.
I'm with u on this one.. them jst connectors are worthless and the way these wires are routed isn't very well thought out either.
 

Hirter6Pack

Not Quite A Guru
What is Rivco? Do you have lighting accessories on your bike?
EHC might be under your Thunderheart ignition module.
On the Mastiff for that year wires for the rear lights run inside the fender. A good place for the tire to rub them if they come loose.
 

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member
Looks like a WP conversion. I may be wrong but connectors look similar. Check the connections under the seat. Unplug, inspect, reconnect.
 

No H2O

Active Member
What is Rivco? Do you have lighting accessories on your bike?
EHC might be under your Thunderheart ignition module.
On the Mastiff for that year wires for the rear lights run inside the fender. A good place for the tire to rub them if they come loose.
I have both a Rivco airhorn and LEDs.
The stock wiring has been upgraded, the PO didn't say what brand.
Sorry it seems I left out quite a bit of detail.
I'm fearing the rear fender situation which is going to be nearly impossible for me to inspect.
 

No H2O

Active Member
Tried to turn on the LEDs this morning and no cigar. Looks like an electrical issue has cropped up
 

TapioK

Well-Known Member
I've gotten the impression you're not exactly a mechanical, I would try and find a local indy mechanic/shop.
Your situation is not totally unheard, nor catastrophic. Most likely something rather simple for a person with a basic knowledge of electronics. A mechanic worth their salt should be able to diagnose the problem rather easily. Tinkering with electronics with no basic knowledge you may cause more problems than you solve.
I may well be wrong, but that's my opinion.
Optimum would be a mechanic who would show you what he is doing...
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
I can't diagnose from here but introduce more of the simple or obvious points to eliminate. There is no place to begin sort of speak, but to hold the imaginary winker assembly in hand:
1. Wire In... is the hot side.
2. The illuminating LED's... is the winker itself. As the wire continues connecting one LED after the other, there is no break in the chain so the wire continues showing joy at this point.
3. Wire Out... is the ground side.

The diagnostic tree goes something like this.
a. Connector Not Connected: Let us eliminate this because the connectors do show current flow obviously being connected.
b. Wire Out Of Connector: If you think about those 2 wires can still illuminate the winker, it's logically not this either; said in simple terms.
c. Short To Ground: That's basically it for the wire in or wire out scenario. Either the unit is broken showing a break of flow, the hot is grounded direct, or the ground is not connected [well]. So it's this one... Bad Ground. Why? The connector is connected that shows current flow. It sure is not disconnected, right? It sure is not shorted to ground blowing fuses, right? So it reverts back to 2 wire ends. Who's [ wire side] does not have a solid connection.

Note:
The winker photo; look at the vertical lines above the winker base that butts up against the fender. Is that rattling up and down or is the photo deceiving>> having those lines above the winker? Sometimes a winker base acts as a ground source.
 

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member
I can't diagnose from here but introduce more of the simple or obvious points to eliminate. There is no place to begin sort of speak, but to hold the imaginary winker assembly in hand:
1. Wire In... is the hot side.
2. The illuminating LED's... is the winker itself. As the wire continues connecting one LED after the other, there is no break in the chain so the wire continues showing joy at this point.
3. Wire Out... is the ground side.

The diagnostic tree goes something like this.
a. Connector Not Connected: Let us eliminate this because the connectors do show current flow obviously being connected.
b. Wire Out Of Connector: If you think about those 2 wires can still illuminate the winker, it's logically not this either; said in simple terms.
c. Short To Ground: That's basically it for the wire in or wire out scenario. Either the unit is broken showing a break of flow, the hot is grounded direct, or the ground is not connected [well]. So it's this one... Bad Ground. Why? The connector is connected that shows current flow. It sure is not disconnected, right? It sure is not shorted to ground blowing fuses, right? So it reverts back to 2 wire ends. Who's [ wire side] does not have a solid connection.

Note:
The winker photo; look at the vertical lines above the winker base that butts up against the fender. Is that rattling up and down or is the photo deceiving>> having those lines above the winker? Sometimes a winker base acts as a ground source.
Went back and looked close....sure looks like the strut has moved...could be fibers from a polish rag too....?
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Sven is saying you need a voltmeter and must know how to use it.
LOL... WATT Sven meant was that no meter needed. Sven made comment:
1. Do I need a meter to visually SEE "connector is not connected?"
2. Do I need to see "wire out of connector" and need a meter?
3. Do I need a meter if the strut is loose, the illumination is visible, the ground wire is bolted on tight?

Set meter to connector to connector. Set meter to 'black carbon' at the connections. Set meter to 'laugh needle meter swing.'
 

Nukeranger

Nukeranger
LOL... WATT Sven meant was that no meter needed. Sven made comment:
1. Do I need a meter to visually SEE "connector is not connected?"
2. Do I need to see "wire out of connector" and need a meter?
3. Do I need a meter if the strut is loose, the illumination is visible, the ground wire is bolted on tight?

Set meter to connector to connector. Set meter to 'black carbon' at the connections. Set meter to 'laugh needle meter swing.'

Just goes to show you that I can't read or understand what Sven writes for the most part. Nowhere did it say in writing that a meter was not needed but maybe implied. I've figured out a lot of electrical issues with the right electrical tools. I can understand that a meter is not needed if two wires aren't visibly connected but otherwise it gets difficult to diagnose a bad solder connection, plug, etc.

But, I've learned my lesson......don't try and interpret Sven documentation.

Thanks for the learning,

:):chopper:

I do have a question.........how long does it take for Sven to build a bike? He's been building one forever!
 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
LOL... WATT Sven meant was that no meter needed. Sven made comment:
1. Do I need a meter to visually SEE "connector is not connected?"
2. Do I need to see "wire out of connector" and need a meter?
3. Do I need a meter if the strut is loose, the illumination is visible, the ground wire is bolted on tight?

Set meter to connector to connector. Set meter to 'black carbon' at the connections. Set meter to 'laugh needle meter swing.'
NOLTT !!!!!!!
 
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