Oil change confused

Energy One

Gmutoagrsv

Active Member
I changed the oil on my 06 mastiff. I read it takes 3qts. After 1 3/4 it was full. I drained it out of the case and did the filter. What did I miss?
 

TapioK

Well-Known Member
I changed the oil on my 06 mastiff. I read it takes 3qts. After 1 3/4 it was full. I drained it out of the case and did the filter. What did I miss?
Did you drain the oil tank? There is a hose with a plug on the end. I suppose it is attached to the frame on Mastiff too


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SEAL-rider

Active Member
Scavenger is great, but not needed. You should not normally remove the case drain plug. Only the oil tank drain plug. If you drain the oil tank and change the filter you will get close to 3 quarts out. If you have more than a 1/2 cup in your case you might have an issue with the oil check valve or the low pressure scavenging system not working properly.
 
Scavenger is great, but not needed. You should not normally remove the case drain plug. Only the oil tank drain plug. If you drain the oil tank and change the filter you will get close to 3 quarts out. If you have more than a 1/2 cup in your case you might have an issue with the oil check valve or the low pressure scavenging system not working properly.
I always remove the case drain plug when changing the oil, one it allows me to completely remove old oil, second it removes any debris built up in the case, and I check and clean the magnet of any debris that may have stuck to it. I have done this during all my oil changes and to me it makes sense. Maybe others will chime in ?


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SKOGDOG

One of the old ones.
Haha--I just posted essentially the same thing in another related thread. Two myths about draining the sump as a part of oil changes are that 1) the oil pump will lose its prime and 2) that the engine will have a time without oil pressure when you start it after completely draining the system.
The oil pump immediately pumps oil from the reservoir to the engine when the engine starts. No crankshaft splashes needed because it uses galleries and positive pressure.
And the oil pump does not lose its prime when the sump is drained. Maybe it could use if your bearing and spring check valve is not seated correctly...but sumping is another topic.
I always drain mine too, and have never been convinced otherwise. Of course using due diligence in tightening the drain plug, because it is a pipe thread going into aluminum.
Seal rider to is correct about the amount of oil....besides a defective check valve, larger amounts of oil in the sump can also be caused by using a newer cam chest gasket...our bikes use the older ones (maybe 1992 and earlier?) can't remember exactly, but it is cited in the S&S engine manual on their website. The newer gasket allows some oil to drain into the sump.
 
Haha--I just posted essentially the same thing in another related thread. Two myths about draining the sump as a part of oil changes are that 1) the oil pump will lose its prime and 2) that the engine will have a time without oil pressure when you start it after completely draining the system.
The oil pump immediately pumps oil from the reservoir to the engine when the engine starts. No crankshaft splashes needed because it uses galleries and positive pressure.
And the oil pump does not lose its prime when the sump is drained. Maybe it could use if your bearing and spring check valve is not seated correctly...but sumping is another topic.
I always drain mine too, and have never been convinced otherwise. Of course using due diligence in tightening the drain plug, because it is a pipe thread going into aluminum.
Seal rider to is correct about the amount of oil....besides a defective check valve, larger amounts of oil in the sump can also be caused by using a newer cam chest gasket...our bikes use the older ones (maybe 1992 and earlier?) can't remember exactly, but it is cited in the S&S engine manual on their website. The newer gasket allows some oil to drain into the sump.
I saw that, damn odd
 

SKOGDOG

One of the old ones.
The postwas about the cam chest gasket. If you use a newer one, it can cause sumping. Our bikes take the 92 and earlier cam chest gasket.
I referenced it , but had to go look it up to make sure the earlier info was correct. It is kind of important to us because of if you replaced that gasket with the newer one, your bike will probably start sumping.
But I don't intend to hijack a scavenging thread with talk of sumping---sorry.
 

francoblay1

The Spaniard
I always remove the case drain plug when changing the oil, one it allows me to completely remove old oil, second it removes any debris built up in the case, and I check and clean the magnet of any debris that may have stuck to it. I have done this during all my oil changes and to me it makes sense. Maybe others will chime in ?
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:agree: X2

I´ve done it that way all my life; on my bikes, cars, lawnmowers, etc. No difference with the Big Dog.

Just be careful to do not fuckup the thread in the plug.

:chopper:
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
The postwas about the cam chest gasket. If you use a newer one, it can cause sumping. Our bikes take the 92 and earlier cam chest gasket.
I referenced it , but had to go look it up to make sure the earlier info was correct. It is kind of important to us because of if you replaced that gasket with the newer one, your bike will probably start sumping.
But I don't intend to hijack a scavenging thread with talk of sumping---sorry.
I know it says it but I don't think S&S made any engines with that 93-99 design for the EVO motors anyways. Think it's just saying don't buy the Harley OEM for 93-99 EVO cause then this would make sense

Haha

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