New Battery but Bike Wont Turn on!!!

[Jeffrey Leatherwood]

Ok, so I tested the hand controls with a meter. Using the connector under tank:
Black is common (ground I assume)
Continuity with red when you push Run
Continuity with blue when you push off
Continuity with green when you push start
Continuity with brown when you push turn r

I’m not sure what the orange wire is for??

Any ideas?? I assume if the button press makes continuity with the common (black) that the button is working properly? I also tested all circuits for short against each other without any bottoms pushed (none found)
And then just to be through I checked continuity against all circuits with true ground (the frame) and found none.

It appears as though my hand controls are working properly

 

[BWG56]

I’m not sure what the orange wire is for??

Any ideas?? I assume if the button press makes continuity with the common (black) that the button is working properly? I also tested all circuits for short against each other without any bottoms pushed (none found)
And then just to be through I checked continuity against all circuits with true ground (the frame) and found none.

It appears as though my hand controls are working properlyView attachment 58115

Brake
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4342373f... Manual/2007 Wire Diagram Carbureted.pdf?dl=0

 

[Jeffrey Leatherwood]

Brake
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4342373flodnbhj/AADFGrVHyXmko_3wgzeMCnDca/07 BDM Service Manual/2007 Wire Diagram Carbureted.pdf?dl=0
View attachment 58136

Brake! Duh that makes sense! Thanks!!

 

[Hirter6Pack]

 

[pauldeepsea]

Ok, so I tested the hand controls with a meter. Using the connector under tank:
Black is common (ground I assume)
Continuity with red when you push Run
Continuity with blue when you push off
Continuity with green when you push start
Continuity with brown when you push turn r

I’m not sure what the orange wire is for??

Any ideas?? I assume if the button press makes continuity with the common (black) that the button is working properly? I also tested all circuits for short against each other without any bottoms pushed (none found)
And then just to be through I checked continuity against all circuits with true ground (the frame) and found none.

It appears as though my hand controls are working properlyView attachment 58115

Understand, check to ensure the pins a full seated in the connections. On one of mine I was getting continuity but one of the pins was loose. Gently pull on the wires to see if any of the pins pull out, be careful the wires can pull off the pins.

 

[pauldeepsea]

Here's what I'm working with:View attachment 58083View attachment 58084View attachment 58085View attachment 58086View attachment 58087View attachment 58088

You may want to go through the wiring from the wp controller to the wiring harness and check to see if any of the pins are burnt on the deutch connectors. Probably not the issue seeing you have continuity but may be worth a shot. After that I would consider going with one of the aftermarket control modules. I have docs on my build but axels is a good choice too.

 

[Jeffrey Leatherwood]

Are there not like generic “Harley” or “v twin chopper” harness and control systems? Similar to like a painless wiring harness for a car? It seems like the whole thing is kinda unnecessarily complicated...

 

[MossBerg590]

You could old school wire it but have to change bars etc. You also won' be able to use Axels unit since you have wp now. If you decide to replace it I would go with Docs ehc and you'l have all new wiring and module. Will clean it up a lot too

 

[roadie1389]

Welcome to the world of BDM. In 2004 they went away from the HD style electronics. The hand controls are just low level signal inputs to the EHC. That then send power to the respective device. When the EHC started having issues there were a few aftermarket replacements. Wires Plus was one but the draw back was you had to " butcher" the main harness. The new new micro controllers are way better and allow the use of the BDM controls.

 

[Hirter6Pack]

You could old school wire it but have to change bars etc. You also won' be able to use Axels unit since you have wp now. If you decide to replace it I would go with Docs ehc and you'l have all new wiring and module. Will clean it up a lot too

Welcome to the world of BDM. In 2004 they went away from the HD style electronics. The hand controls are just low level signal inputs to the EHC. That then send power to the respective device. When the EHC started having issues there were a few aftermarket replacements. Wires Plus was one but the draw back was you had to " butcher" the main harness. The new new micro controllers are way better and allow the use of the BDM controls.

DOCs or RIP will get you new backbone wiring if you decide to condemn what you have now.

 

[Jeffrey Leatherwood]

Welcome to the world of BDM. In 2004 they went away from the HD style electronics. The hand controls are just low level signal inputs to the EHC. That then send power to the respective device. When the EHC started having issues there were a few aftermarket replacements. Wires Plus was one but the draw back was you had to " butcher" the main harness. The new new micro controllers are way better and allow the use of the BDM controls.

When you say “new micro controller” are you talking like Do.c’s EHC? Or something else more generic? If I have wires plus then my harness has been compromised right? So , what’s the easiest way to solve the problem? I’d guess Docs but what about my harness having been modified for Wires Plus?

If I’ve gotta replace the big dog harness to refit the Doc’s EHC then I’d think it would be smarter to just run a generic “wiring kit for v twin. I don’t see why you couldn’t use BDM controls though? If I made black + I’d Have signal when Button was pressed just like any other controller right? They are just momentary on switches. I mean I’d need relays but we’re only talking a few circuits right?

I feel like I’m missing something? I guess “old school” would be push-on/push-off so the momentary push is the issue??


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[MossBerg590]

Docs will come with the module and all new backbone harness. As far as old school wiring, all Harley control etc are 1", big dogs are larger. So Harley controls won't fit on our bars and Harley wiring setup won' work with our pcb boards in our controls

 

[Jeffrey Leatherwood]

Docs will come with the module and all new backbone harness. As far as old school wiring, all Harley control etc are 1", big dogs are larger. So Harley controls won't fit on our bars and Harley wiring setup won' work with our pcb boards in our controls

I’m not understanding why something like this wouldn’t be a better option: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/232039676043




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[MossBerg590]

That won't work with big dog controls. If you got that, you'd have to pick up some Harley bars and controls. Then it would be fine

 

[MossBerg590]

Another cheaper option, which is what I ended up doing, is just buying the thunderheart module and wiring it yourself. Time consuming but half the price of new ehc

 

[Jeffrey Leatherwood]

Another cheaper option, which is what I ended up doing, is just buying the thunderheart module and wiring it yourself. Time consuming but half the price of new ehc

So more or less my most plug and play options keeping factors bars and controls are:
-Docs or Gen 1 RIP? Both will essentially require rewiring the backbone wiring with their proprietary backbone wiring?

-Or I could do something called thunderbolt that sounds like more rewiring but cheaper. Possibly more proprietary connectors or more just straight up hardwired parts.

-Or I could replace the Wires Plus Modified backbone wiring with factory (inexpensive on eBay) and do rip gen 2 or axels which seem to use factory options for connector to box

Sorry if this is remedial. I’m new to this and just wanna make sure I understand my options. Thru reading around this forum this seems to be my synopsis.


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[pauldeepsea]

So more or less my most plug and play options keeping factors bars and controls are:
-Docs or Gen 1 RIP? Both will essentially require rewiring the backbone wiring with their proprietary backbone wiring?

-Or I could do something called thunderbolt that sounds like more rewiring but cheaper. Possibly more proprietary connectors or more just straight up hardwired parts.

-Or I could replace the Wires Plus Modified backbone wiring with factory (inexpensive on eBay) and do rip gen 2 or axels which seem to use factory options for connector to box

Sorry if this is remedial. I’m new to this and just wanna make sure I understand my options. Thru reading around this forum this seems to be my synopsis.


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Correct docs and rip comes with a brand new harness and well worth it imho. No extra wiring harness required it will come with everything you need.

The thunderbolt will require you to change the controls etc which will be just as expensive in the long run.

I wouldn’t throw the towel in just yet on replacing the unit there are some things to check but it seems like that may be where you are going

 

[pauldeepsea]

Here is a photo of docs kit that I am installing on my ridgeback build. I replaced my wires plus with his kit. Super easy to install and it has a new wiring harness included.

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[Jeffrey Leatherwood]

Here is a photo of docs kit that I am installing on my ridgeback build. I replaced my wires plus with his kit. Super easy to install and it has a new wiring harness included.

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That looks great!!


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[Jeffrey Leatherwood]

Correct docs and rip comes with a brand new harness and well worth it imho. No extra wiring harness required it will come with everything you need.

The thunderbolt will require you to change the controls etc which will be just as expensive in the long run.

I wouldn’t throw the towel in just yet on replacing the unit there are some things to check but it seems like that may be where you are going

So hand controls are working, checked harnesses for loose wires and checked for rubbing and abrasion type shorts etc etc... wiring looks to have been done professionally and seems to be in good condition.
Controller gets power but doesn’t execute “run command”, or horn etc...

What would you check next?



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