Traded forward control kits, now shift rod doesn't seem to "shift"

Energy One

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
So I measured the length of my shift rod not including the ends and it's about 12 & 7/8"
When I manually place the shifter in the middle of its range so that the foot shift pedal lines up roughly with the opposing brake pedal, it looks like I could use an additional 2.5-3" in length on the shift rod
The heim joints you can extend out but maybe not that far depending on how they are now but adding 2-2.5" to the rod would make logical sense.


Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 

MossBerg590

Active Member
So I measured the length of my shift rod not including the ends and it's about 12 & 7/8"
When I manually place the shifter in the middle of its range so that the foot shift pedal lines up roughly with the opposing brake pedal, it looks like I could use an additional 2.5-3" in length on the shift rod
My 06 ridge, stock rod length was 14 5/8" or so. With the extended controls rod is 16 3/8", both measurements are rod only no joints.
 

No H2O

Active Member
I figure if he give donna that measurement they will send him the right one with room to adjust.
Donnas on vacation till Sunday, would prefer getting it sooner, no other sellers that I can find, I really want to be out riding instead of waiting
 

pknowles

RETIRED
Then take it to a machine shop and have them cut you a length of round stock to length and drill and tap for you hiem joints.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Donnas on vacation till Sunday, would prefer getting it sooner, no other sellers that I can find, I really want to be out riding instead of waiting
It's already Wednesday. Even if she was there and you ordered it would ship tomorrow and MIGHT have it Saturday at some time if they send priority 2day.

Welcome to the big dog club! If this little thing is all it needs you should consider yourself lucky..haha. the bike is 14 years old.

Take this time to change the oils cause who knows last time that was done. Trans, Engine and Primary. Get to know the bike



Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 

No H2O

Active Member
Then take it to a machine shop and have them cut you a length of round stock to length and drill and tap for you hiem joints.
I'm more comfortable ordering the rod for that year and model so I know the measurement is what it should be.

Take this time to change the oils cause who knows last time that was done. Trans, Engine and Primary. Get to know the bike
I thought I was mechanically inclined, I think I'm hopeless - I can't even find the oil fill hole!
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
I'm more comfortable ordering the rod for that year and model so I know the measurement is what it should be.



I thought I was mechanically inclined, I think I'm hopeless - I can't even find the oil fill hole!
It's a ridgeback actually my earlier comment you can buy a dipstick for that bike haha. Donna has them too!

The ridgeback oil tank is at the very bottom and runs right smack dab in the middle of it with the filler hole. On the right side look right in front of the rear tire it's the only piece of aluminum that is round with knurling that looks like an oil cap

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
 

pknowles

RETIRED
I'm more comfortable ordering the rod for that year and model so I know the measurement is what it should be.



I thought I was mechanically inclined, I think I'm hopeless - I can't even find the oil fill hole!
As i saidn pack it up and come on down. I'll give Saturday but I'm racing Sunday
 

roadie1389

Well-Known Member
Just for another reference point my rod is 14 3/4 (stop laughing) and the eye to eye is 16 1/2. If you a hardware store close by (or HD ie Home Depot) get a piece of threaded rod and a coupler. You will want to take the parts with you to make sure thread sizes. This will get you the extra 2-3" you need. This will get you by until you can order the real parts.
 
Last edited:

No H2O

Active Member
It's a ridgeback actually my earlier comment you can buy a dipstick for that bike haha. Donna has them too!

The ridgeback oil tank is at the very bottom and runs right smack dab in the middle of it with the filler hole. On the right side look right in front of the rear tire it's the only piece of aluminum that is round with knurling that looks like an oil cap

Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
I believe I found it, it's nearly the size of a silver dollar. Does it pull up and out like most oil caps or does it twist off?
I've been trying both embarrassingly to no avail. I just want to know where to focus my energies
 

pknowles

RETIRED
I believe I found it, it's nearly the size of a silver dollar. Does it pull up and out like most oil caps or does it twist off?
I've been trying both embarrassingly to no avail. I just want to know where to focus my energies
It should unscrew.... counter
Clock wise
 

No H2O

Active Member
Take this time to change the oils cause who knows last time that was done. Trans, Engine and Primary. Get to know the bike
My research on fluids so far on a 2004 Ridgeback

Brake Fluid: fill to top, Dot 5 or motul 600 RBF?
Best video I could find is:

Open Primary fluid?: dino, 75/90 gear oil, or ATF?
Best video I could find is:

Transmission fluid: 20oz 75/90 synthetic gear oil?
Best video I could find is:
(drain plug displays at 5:04)

Engine: 3.75 Qts 20/50 synthetic V-twin oil, filter: K&N 170c
This is the only video on changing the oil on a big dog. My dipstick isn't under the seat nor is there a fill area under the seat so I have to assume I fill new oil in the same hole as the dipstick was in...?

Fork fluid: 10w synthetic?
Best video I could find is:

Any other fluids?
 

Unsprung

In the Potters hand...
Tommy you’re tracking good with the videos but you don’t need the video how to on the primary oil. No where to place fluid hence the word “open”. It’s belt driven not chain so nothing to lubricate.

New oil is added in the same hole as the dipstick and do not overfill, I’d check at 2.5qts and add slowly from there. Lots of guys on here do not suggest removing the crankcase drain plug either, (easily cross threaded if your not careful). Use the drain hose on the 107 or oil tank plug on the 117, (not sure whIch you’ve got or if the Ridge is different from the Pit and K9), I’ve never seen one. My 03 Pit had a hose to drain the oil, my 08 K9 drains by the oil tank.

Do you have manuals? If not, check this out....
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ng3saqa5a93gehp/AADK9gFSGaAG5oirsV17JO_Oa?dl=0
 
Last edited:

No H2O

Active Member
Tommy you’re tracking good with the videos but you don’t need the video how to on the primary oil. No where to place fluid hence the word “open”. It’s belt driven not chain so nothing to lubricate.

New oil is added in the same hole as the dipstick and do not overfill, I’d check at 2.5qts and add slowly from there. Lots of guys on here do not suggest removing the crankcase drain plug either, (easily cross threaded if your not careful). Use the drain hose on the 107 or oil tank plug on the 117, (not sure whIch you’ve got or if the Ridge is different from the Pit and K9), I’ve never seen one. My 03 Pit had a hose to drain the oil, my 08 K9 drains by the oil tank.

Do you have manuals? If not, check this out....
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ng3saqa5a93gehp/AADK9gFSGaAG5oirsV17JO_Oa?dl=0
So no primary fluid and no final drive fluid, that's two less things to worry about :)

My engine is the S&S 107, no idea where the drain hose is but I'll keep searching, anyone know offhand?

That's a good link to the manuals. I noticed they only recommend the RevTech dino 20/50 oil: "
RevTech 20/50 motor oil is used in all Big Dog motorcycles. RevTech oil is different from other manufacturer’s oil because of its additive package. Oil used in our motors MUST be specifically designed for motorcycle air-cooled motors. Motorcycle oil usually has more additives to provide the metal-to-metal contact protection needed. We DO NOT recommend synthetic oil."
Haven't noticed it in stock at the local bike shops, may have to order it.
 
Top