Just test rode a 2006 K-9, seeking pre-purchase advice on some items

Energy One

No H2O

Active Member
a) The back brake is fine but there is almost no stopping power on the front brake to speak of.
As simple as fluid and pads or could it be wor$e?

b) The first two-thirds of the clutch lever has zero tension (100% play in that you could flick it back and forth with your finger).
As simple as adjusting the clutch lever or could it be wor$e?

c) Can't shift into neutral while the engine's running.
Once you turn it off and roll it, it'll shift easily though.

d) The pillion seat is held on by suction cups.
Couldn't that fly off at highway speed? Is there a kit where I can drill it to the fender tastefully like on the Harleys?

e) What concerns me most is that a mechanic had run through this pre-sale and gone through everything since it had been sitting and the engine had to be revived yet a)-c) above were missed.

f) It has the TP covers but currently at 6k miles, is it a matter of "they're only good for another #k miles" or is it a matter of "they can take a dump at any point seizing your engine"?
I was thinking of replacing with these:
https://www.partsgiant.com/p317737-...1CCbvfloX90sBDGf6yIUJEdJoLCcdzQYaAn7lEALw_wcB
Not sure if that's a DIY job or something for a pro mechanic?

The good part is that the fork looks even, no smoke upon startup, fires up without much effort, smooth idle, no scratches from dropping, and has two oil coolers.

$95-$32 for my bike =$63 to trade. I told him I'd sleep on it, any input on the above is appreciated.
 

Attachments

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member
Brakes n clutch prolly adjustment, worst case rebuild both. P-pad is standard, ya dont wanna leave it on without weight on it.. TP heads, flip a coin. They may last to infinity or blow up next week. Parts is parts. If you have any mechanical ability, we can prolly work ya thru whatever.... if ya like it, jump. Jm .02

Edit: only one is an oil cooler. The other is a stash tube.
 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
in that kit, i am not seeing rockers, pushrods, etc. gonna need more than just the covers.
 

MossBerg590

Active Member
Sounds like a good deal, I have 10k on TP boxes and still runs fine.That could be just a winter to do project, I doubt you'l have problems with it anytime soon..but then again..you never know.
 

Unsprung

In the Potters hand...
Sounds like minor issues, why not if the price is right? Clutch could be loose hub nut or cable or simply adjustment. Brake - most likely rebuild or good bleed, (rebuild kit is about $40 and do it yourself). Low mileage, clean, TP heads are a coin toss but the rest of the bike is in great shape.
 

pknowles

RETIRED
Sounds like minor issues, why not if the price is right? Clutch could be loose hub nut or cable or simply adjustment. Brake - most likely rebuild or good bleed, (rebuild kit is about $40 and do it yourself). Low mileage, clean, TP heads are a coin toss but the rest of the bike is in great shape.

Might just need to change the brake fluid and bleed the brakes. There's always a chance that it has never been changed.

I had Andrew Barnes rebuild my transmission and he changed out the imput shaft to the upgraded one along with all bearings and new shift forks for around $1,400.00 if memory serves me correctly. I had mine out of the bike while installing the Baker open primary(which I might add is one of the best upgrades that I have done to my bike and is a really simple install).
 

No H2O

Active Member
TP heads are a coin toss
Let's say I'm driving it to the mechanic's shop and the TP heads take a dump.
Is it just the heads that need replaced, which I'm planning on anyway, or would that destroy something else, e.g. the engine?
 

MossBerg590

Active Member
I could be wrong but I don't think they usually "take a dump" it's an ongoing wear process. The top end will be real noisy etc for awhile. I think it' more of the change them out before wear gets too bad rather than one day you wake up and the motor is destroyed
 

Reddickracing

Well-Known Member
When I bought my 06 K9 the front brake rotor had an oily film on it, no stopping power, replaced the orings in the caliper with a rebuild kit and been good ever since. Also somebody had tightened the locking nut on my clutch cable on the wrong end, needless to say the cable would spin and back off after a while. Took me a few miles to catch it. C is discussed on here more times than you can count. Even after proper adjustment still can be hard to get in neutral at idle. Goodlookin bike
 
Last edited:
If its got a 300 rear tire its a K9. A 250 rear tire would be a 06 chopper. The 06's also had a transmission problem (input shaft). Baker fixed mine under warranty. My transmission locked up in third gear at about 7500 miles. Would be nice to know if it was upgraded with the new shaft. Baker had lots of problems with it. The TP's are a toss up. I've seen them with 100,000 miles and I've seen them start rattling at 3,500 miles. I have TP's on mine and 31,000 miles on them.
 

No H2O

Active Member
If its got a 300 rear tire its a K9. A 250 rear tire would be a 06 chopper. The 06's also had a transmission problem (input shaft). Baker fixed mine under warranty. My transmission locked up in third gear at about 7500 miles. Would be nice to know if it was upgraded with the new shaft. Baker had lots of problems with it. The TP's are a toss up. I've seen them with 100,000 miles and I've seen them start rattling at 3,500 miles. I have TP's on mine and 31,000 miles on them.
If I hear the TP heads rattling (no guarantee since this bike's nice 'n lowd) I just pull over and have it towed to the shop. My concern would be if this were to occur on a long road trip, then I'm pretty much sol, right?

I'll ask about the input shaft but based on our conversation I doubt it was addressed. However, if it takes a dump (the same concern applies to long road trips), that would be the excuse to go to an open primary. Is that as simple as bolt off - bolt on or is it a labor intensive project?
 

MossBerg590

Active Member
If I hear the TP heads rattling (no guarantee since this bike's nice 'n lowd) I just pull over and have it towed to the shop. My concern would be if this were to occur on a long road trip, then I'm pretty much sol, right?

I'll ask about the input shaft but based on our conversation I doubt it was addressed. However, if it takes a dump (the same concern applies to long road trips), that would be the excuse to go to an open primary. Is that as simple as bolt off - bolt on or is it a labor intensive project?
Like I said,it's an ongoing thing. My boxes have had the noisy tick ever since I've had it. It's not as immediate deal as your thinking. I really wouldn't worry about the tp boxes. If you get it, put it on your to do list..later this year or next year. I highly doubt you are gonna end up having problems with them before you replace them
 

pknowles

RETIRED
If I hear the TP heads rattling (no guarantee since this bike's nice 'n lowd) I just pull over and have it towed to the shop. My concern would be if this were to occur on a long road trip, then I'm pretty much sol, right?

I'll ask about the input shaft but based on our conversation I doubt it was addressed. However, if it takes a dump (the same concern applies to long road trips), that would be the excuse to go to an open primary. Is that as simple as bolt off - bolt on or is it a labor intensive project?
I'm gonna set here and enjoy a cold beer and wonder if you are ever gonna jump H2O
20180504_172356_resized.jpg
 

No H2O

Active Member
ever gonna jump H2O
I know this has to be more frustrating that watching a kid learn to play piano but there are not a lot of BDMs out there and I'm juggling learning about the years/models while searching.

Everyone's patience is appreciated.
 
Top