My pin/window/star needs to have an air gap between the core's titty nipple and the passing of the pin/star/window. The pin/star/window can't have a narrower or wider gap on the core's passing. This changes the (pressure) wave length I believe. So design wise, the air gap has a measured number used. This gap has to remain constant around the circumference of the placement of the rotating fixture (pin/star/etc.) But say something as thick as a business card or less can be passed thru the air gap. That's somewhat of a close enough formula chasing down a lost signal.
Since the speedo worked during the rain (I assume) and when the road bang was noticed, so was the speedo reading. Here is where the confusion comes in. Did the bang move the stationary sensor into the rotating pin/window/etc.? That means I'd have to look at each pin/window/star 'to find a mark caused by the bang.' That means a lot of gap closed up to nick the core's nipple (I assume).
Which now brings up two things:
1. Did the core move enough to have the water enter and short the wave from moving up the wire? So say the road bump closed the air gap and bent the core or wherever that nick is where (I assume) the core's nipple took the hit... unless you say different in location.
2. Or the nick was done when the wheel was being serviced for a new tire, bearing packing, etc., and all that banging around not noticing where the nick came from. Now it rains and finally the coincidence moved some wet into the sensor body and the [nicked] core had enough of a gap between core and sensor body so 'water could enter' and short the signal this way.
Diagnostic wise, I want to sight down at the air gap and make sure the gap remains the same when the wheel spins.
Diagnostic wise, I want to take a heat gun to the sensor's body and evap the wet out of it before I chase AC out of the wires with a spin.
Diagnostic wise, I want to move the core's nipple and make sure the bang did not loosen the core enough and crush wire(s) inside the sensor and render it useless.
Prevention wise, I'd run some (amazing goop) glue over the core's pin entry to the body, let dry and razor cut over the tip of the core's nipple so that end of the nipple is exposed again; so no water can enter into the body. I'd also goop the wires exiting the body as well.
Signed,
Tormenting the motorcycling public one post at a time
