Reverse Bleeding

K

krkostecki

Active Member
Did a search on Mityvac and they were talking about reverse bleeding the brakes. Is it simply a matter of putting brake fluid in the Mityvac, hooking the hose to the caliper bleeder valve, opening the bleeder valve slightly, pumpling brake fluid up the brake line to the master cylinder until I see no more bubbles? Do I need to keep the brake pedal pumped (held down) during this? How much brake fluid should be left/kept in the master cylinder when completed to make sure the brakes work properly? I really enjoy learning new stuff - it's just very important for me to know HOW something works so I can understand what needs to happen to make it work

Thank you for your continued support.

Maximus
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
KaptinAmerika said:
Wild Steed Worx carries and uses this great reverse bleeding product.

Reverse Bleeder
Click to expand...
I bought that same one...call me stupid but I couldn't get the damn syringe to work properly I ended up just making a huge mess.

I ended up just bleeding them the old fashioned way and was done in 10 minutes.

I'll probably try that syringe again it's sitting on the shelf. I must have been doing it wrong, I'll try again.

Not sure how..it seems straight foward...Uncover master cylinder, open bleeder, push brake fluid up through the hose till MC is full. :loony: Now that I think about it....maybe I didn't have the cover off???? :confused: Well that would be stupid no way for the fluid to go up I'll have to try again and make sure I'm not drinking too much beforehand. :cheers:
 
KaptinAmerika

KaptinAmerika

Guru
Wow
Not sure what to say to that bro.
I use it and it works great. Although I do remove the cover......:lol:

Th3InfamousI said:
I bought that same one...call me stupid but I couldn't get the damn syringe to work properly I ended up just making a huge mess.

I ended up just bleeding them the old fashioned way and was done in 10 minutes.

I'll probably try that syringe again it's sitting on the shelf. I must have been doing it wrong, I'll try again.

Not sure how..it seems straight foward...Uncover master cylinder, open bleeder, push brake fluid up through the hose till MC is full. :loony: Now that I think about it....maybe I didn't have the cover off???? :confused: Well that would be stupid no way for the fluid to go up I'll have to try again and make sure I'm not drinking too much beforehand. :cheers:
Click to expand...
 
Th3InfamousI

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
KaptinAmerika said:
Wow
Not sure what to say to that bro.
I use it and it works great. Although I do remove the cover......:lol:
Click to expand...
Sometimes when I'm in the garage I tend to grab a few beers and stare at the machine...sometimes it's a few too many to really be at the top of my game. haha :whoop: Who likes being at the top always anyways :lol:
 
Ironmikey

Ironmikey

Iron Mikey
I'm not finding the "MityVac" so #%!€¥&@ mighty. I've cleaned and blown the front caliper and MC. There was air going through each component of the whole system before I reassembled it closed bleeder valve, filled reservoir, attached L fitting to bleeder valve, pumped MityVac to 20", opened bleeder valve, watched vacuum gauge drop from 20" to 5" before closing valve. Waited ...and waited. I've done this at least ten times. No fresh brake fluid in sight. It's not dropping in the reservoir. It's not an air lock or blockage cuz air pressure pushed out what old brake fluid wasn't sucked out by the MityVac. Ideas?
 
BWG56

BWG56

Guru
I don't think its a good idea to push the old dirty fluid back up thru the master cylinder plunger seals. When you have some air bubbles in the line, leave it sit over night, remove the master cylinder cap and tap the brake handle with the handle of a screw driver and watch the tiny bubbles come out.
I don't know what year they switched to Dot-5 synthetic brake fluid, but it doesn't hold the moisture like Dot-3 or 4.
 
Olde Man

Olde Man

Active Member
This is what worked for me to get the last of the air bubbles out. Turn the handlebars so the master cylinder is at its highest point. Pump the brake until it comes up to pressure. Electrical tape the brake lever in the compressed position and leave it set that way overnight. In the morning remove the tape and when the lever is released the caliper should push brake fluid back up the brake line and push any air bubbles that have collected at the top into the master cylinder. Easy Peasy
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top