TapioK
Well-Known Member
Sorry to hear yours is jelly, don't get rid of it but start wearing underwear.Today I made a samich and I got some peanut butter in my jelly, do you think I should throw my jelly away?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sorry to hear yours is jelly, don't get rid of it but start wearing underwear.Today I made a samich and I got some peanut butter in my jelly, do you think I should throw my jelly away?
Sorry to hear yours is jelly, don't get rid of it but start wearing underwear.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What about my penis butter? I mean peanut butterSorry to hear yours is jelly, don't get rid of it but start wearing underwear.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
is it contaminated?That my friend... Is faaaar beyond my troubleshooting ability to diagnose.What about my penis butter? I mean peanut butteris it contaminated?

If you have something that is working and you visually can see that it hasn't been a problem, then don't fuck with it, because chances are, is that the new replacement will be worse. In today's day and age, the materials you get are usually worse then the materials you had, so just be careful.I think I'm going to put new bushings and just install new shafts this summer on my k9. Hopefully quite it down some. Shafts are cheap only about $35 for the set of 4 rather just replace them along with bushings to ensure proper tolerance.

Used to subscribe to if it ain't broke don't fix. But everything has been breaking. LolIf you have something that is working and you visually can see that it hasn't been a problem, then don't fuck with it, because chances are, is that the new replacement will be worse. In today's day and age, the materials you get are usually worse then the materials you had, so just be careful.
Those damn plugs are $1.50ea. , don't ya think spending 20 minutes cleaning them is worth it?Kinda like cleaning spark plugs why bother new ones are cheap I replace them every season![]()

I posted a pic of a plug in "The Alley", today.Those damn plugs are $1.50ea. , don't ya think spending 20 minutes cleaning them is worth it?![]()
.Ya shoulda left it thereI posted a pic of a plug in "The Alley", today.
Pul Start For A Sammich Maker....![]()
.

I did.Ya shoulda left it there![]()

We both learned a thing or two from youThe newest
calling the senior
a
only on big dog biker forum
![]()


The newest
![]()
calling the senior
![]()
a
![]()
only on big dog biker forum
![]()

It's not alarming that many people use this oil, and many people tend to gravitate to the companies that happen to have the best marketing as well as the easiest accessible products. Hell, you can walk into any walmart and buy yourself some. You can walk into any super market and get yourself some as well. I've been at it, and in the engine building business for quite some time, so I get first hand experience to look into these engines season after season and year after year. We study failures very closely. Years ago I was a huge fan of Mobil synthetics and that was through the 80's, and as the times changed, so did the Mobil product, and in my opinion, not for the better. I've witnessed just an excessive amount of tapet failures on Mobile oil and I have gone away from that mass marketed and mass produced product. My personal choice for an easy to get oil, is Valvoline VR1 Racing non synthetic. the VV 205 is a 10-30 and the VV211 is the 20-50. We use this in our engine shop and it does have 1100 ppm (Parts per million) of phosphorous and 1100 parts per million of zinc. It's the phos content that really protects that metal to metal interaction in the engine. The mobile along with many other "shelf oils" have less than the limit of 700. 700 is the legal limitation for zinc and phos content to be sold on a shelf. Some other oils that are really good in my opinion are Synergyn, Shaffer, Joe Gibbs and Amsoil. Some of the oils I mentioned have close to, if not over 2000 PPM of zinc and phos.
I have Valvoline VR1 Racing 20-50 in my 117 S&S engine.
VR1 WAY TO ROLL MOBILE DON'T CARE ANYMORE... 20/50 OR 50 OR 60 WEIGHT STRAIGHT FOR HOT AREA NO BSIt's not alarming that many people use this oil, and many people tend to gravitate to the companies that happen to have the best marketing as well as the easiest accessible products. Hell, you can walk into any walmart and buy yourself some. You can walk into any super market and get yourself some as well. I've been at it, and in the engine building business for quite some time, so I get first hand experience to look into these engines season after season and year after year. We study failures very closely. Years ago I was a huge fan of Mobil synthetics and that was through the 80's, and as the times changed, so did the Mobil product, and in my opinion, not for the better. I've witnessed just an excessive amount of tapet failures on Mobile oil and I have gone away from that mass marketed and mass produced product. My personal choice for an easy to get oil, is Valvoline VR1 Racing non synthetic. the VV 205 is a 10-30 and the VV211 is the 20-50. We use this in our engine shop and it does have 1100 ppm (Parts per million) of phosphorous and 1100 parts per million of zinc. It's the phos content that really protects that metal to metal interaction in the engine. The mobile along with many other "shelf oils" have less than the limit of 700. 700 is the legal limitation for zinc and phos content to be sold on a shelf. Some other oils that are really good in my opinion are Synergyn, Shaffer, Joe Gibbs and Amsoil. Some of the oils I mentioned have close to, if not over 2000 PPM of zinc and phos.
I have Valvoline VR1 Racing 20-50 in my 117 S&S engine.
